Clutch Slave Replacement - DIY / Instructions

[skymast]

It looks like I need to replace by slave. is this an easy enough DIY? Does anyone have the directions? Thx

[Loren]

Here is the procedure for a 996...

Removal

1. Unscrew the front rear-axle cross member (two MI0 screws) to facilitate subsequent assembly work.

2. Detach line No.1 on the clutch slave cylinder and remove line from holder No.2. Cover or close line No.1 and the connection bore in the clutch slave cylinder.

3. Remove holder with clip No.2 (to facilitate assembly). To do this, undo the 2 screws on the transmission side cover.

4. Undo fastening screws No.3 and remove the clutch slave cylinder from the transmission housing.

Note -

The following tools can be used to undo and tighten screws No.3:

Lower screw: 3/8 inch changeover ratchet in combination with a short extension (approx. 100 mm long) and 13 mm socket wrench insert.

Upper screw: 3/8 inch changeover ratchet in combination with an extension (approx. 250 mm long), universal joint

and 13 mm socket wrench insert.

Installation

1. Grease end of the push rod of the clutch slave cylinder- in the area located in the ball socket of the release lever when installed - with a thin coat of Olista longtime 3 EP (available as a spare part).

2. Fit the clutch slave cylinder and tighten the fastening screws (23 Nm (17 ftlb.)).

Note -

When inserting clutch slave cylinder, it is necessary to overcome the spring force acting on the push rod whilst fitting a fastening screw.

Refer to the assembly instructions in the following text.

Assembly instructions for inserting the clutch slave cylinder

Move clutch slave cylinder to installation position and then fix/centre it at the lower fastening point using a drift punch (A) measuring 5 x 120 x 10 mm.

Align clutch slave cylinder - with the drift punch (A) in place - so that the upper fastening screw No.3 can be fitted.

After fitting the upper fastening screw No.3, remove the drift punch (A) and screw in the lower fastening screw.

Tighten upper and lower fastening screws (23 Nm (17 ftlb.)).

3. Fit clutch line on clutch slave cylinder (do not tighten it yet). Fit holder with clip on the transmission side cover (tightening torque of the two screws: 25 Nm (19 ftlb.)). Clip clutch line into the holder and tighten the line.

4. Bleed hydraulic system of the clutch.

Important notes:

The clutch hydraulics must always be filled or bled using a pressure filling and bleeding device. Furthermore, the bleeder valve must be opened sufficiently and the gauge pressure must be approx. 1. 5 bar. Before the system is filled or bled, the clutch pedal must be in the "Pedal fully depressed" position.

Important: As there is no system pressure, servo kinematic effects will cause the clutch pedal to move forward abruptly. In order to avoid damage, the pedal must be guided manually. Bleed the system until no more bubbles appear at the bleeder valve (use a collecting bottle with transparent hose). If the system was open previously, the minimum filling or bleeding time must be 30 seconds.

5. Check operation of the clutch. Repeat the bleeding process if the clutch does not operate (disengage) correctly.

6. Install rear axle cross member. Tightening torque of the two screws 65 Nm (48 ftlb.).