Noises

[flyboyshell]

Hello Fellow Porsche Owners,

I have one for you all.

I have a 2000 Boxster with 57K on the clock. I have started noticing/hearing noises coming from the front end of the vehicle. It sounds like the suspension or shocks, not to sure since I am no machanic. Anyway, when I am driving from about 20-40 and pulling off or stopping it sounds like an old car with really bad suspension. It seems to make terrible noises especially over small bumps. To me it sounds like something is really dry.

Any suggestions on how one can lubricate the suspension, etc.

[Chris_in_NH]

just thinking out loud here...

are you sure it's the suspension? 57K sounds a little early to have problems. i had some squeaking coming from the front end of my car and found that the spare was just a little bit loose (but made a terrible noise).

do you hear noise if you push down and release on the fender(s) over the wheel(s)?

that's the extent of my suspension knowledge. :rolleyes:

[ronbonner]

Hello Fellow Porsche Owners,

I have one for you all.

I have a 2000 Boxster with 57K on the clock. I have started noticing/hearing noises coming from the front end of the vehicle. It sounds like the suspension or shocks, not to sure since I am no machanic. Anyway, when I am driving from about 20-40 and pulling off or stopping it sounds like an old car with really bad suspension. It seems to make terrible noises especially over small bumps. To me it sounds like something is really dry.

Any suggestions on how one can lubricate the suspension, etc.

Don't waste your time lubricating as the problem is likely to be the lower control arm on the suspension. If you get a noisy, squeeky ride coming from the front especially after the car has warmed up, this is probably the fault. I had the same problem a few weeks ago on my C4 (MY2000 70K). I changed the lower arm myself (although you will need a ball joint seperator).

The ball joint on the arm wears and the squeeking starts

RB

[flyboyshell]

Thanks for the input guys.

In fact, when I press down on the fenders over the wheels it makes that noise. Does this mean it is the the ball joint on the arm?

The car is in great shape and I cannot begin to imagine why at 57K this would happen. Call me ignornant I guess.

[Stefan]

If it sounds like a creaking sound is probably the lower control arm bushing. That's what it was on my car. To properly fix it, you have to replace the control arm and get an alignment. You can lube it to make the problem go away for a little while but it will come back.

To answer your question: it's a flawed design IMO.

[flyboyshell]

If it sounds like a creaking sound is probably the lower control arm bushing. That's what it was on my car. To properly fix it, you have to replace the control arm and get an alignment. You can lube it to make the problem go away for a little while but it will come back.

To answer your question: it's a flawed design IMO.

Anyway I get directions on getting this replaced or at least lubricated for now?

[Stefan]

If you take the wheel off or turn the wheel all the way, you can see the control arms. The bushing that makes the noise is the one closest to the wheel, where the transverse control arm (3) meets the lower control arm (6). Spray it liberally with your favorite rubber-safe lubricant. You may be able to do it with the wheel on the car, in which case, I would have someone push down on the car repeatedly while you spray the lubricant so you can hear when you get the right spot.

As a point of reference, where the "6" points to in the picture is just inside the wheel.

I know a guy who never replaced them. He just lubes it every 6 months and has 135k+ miles on his Boxster. IIRC, they are between $200 and $300 for the part.

[flyboyshell]

If you take the wheel off or turn the wheel all the way, you can see the control arms. The bushing that makes the noise is the one closest to the wheel, where the transverse control arm (3) meets the lower control arm (6). Spray it liberally with your favorite rubber-safe lubricant. You may be able to do it with the wheel on the car, in which case, I would have someone push down on the car repeatedly while you spray the lubricant so you can hear when you get the right spot.

As a point of reference, where the "6" points to in the picture is just inside the wheel.

I know a guy who never replaced them. He just lubes it every 6 months and has 135k+ miles on his Boxster. IIRC, they are between $200 and $300 for the part.

Thanks Stefan, I will be working it real soon.

[forbes500]

I have the exact same sound coming from my '99 Cab and the stealer has so far spent 500 euro on chasing it down. Fortunately I refused to pay him :P and will give the old lube a go...thanks for the heads up!

[cbonilla]

Great to see this topic as I was about to post on the same/similar issue. 2003 S with 50k miles. The noise I'm getting out of the front end is when I go over small bumps and the suspension makes what I can only describe as a rattling sound. Is this consistent with what we have been discussing here.

Before I go swapping expensive parts,

1) is there a diagnosis routine for this?

2) Someone mentioned using a "rubbers safe" lubricant. Can you recomend a brand?

many thanks, Carlos

[ronbonner]

Great to see this topic as I was about to post on the same/similar issue. 2003 S with 50k miles. The noise I'm getting out of the front end is when I go over small bumps and the suspension makes what I can only describe as a rattling sound. Is this consistent with what we have been discussing here.

Before I go swapping expensive parts,

1) is there a diagnosis routine for this?

2) Someone mentioned using a "rubbers safe" lubricant. Can you recomend a brand?

many thanks, Carlos

Can't help feeling you are delaying the inevitable by greasing. It is a straight forward job and even if you had your dealer do it it should only be an hours labour per wheel at the most plus the cost of the lower control arm.

[cbonilla]

I agree that if this is the probelm I am only postponing the inevitable. However, I'd like to make sure I isolate the problem before swapping out parts.

Any receomndations on a rubber friendly lube?

Carlos

[Stefan]

FYI, after inspecting the bushing I believe that it can be rebuilt using flexane 94 because it degrades similarly to the motor mount (rubber eventually dries and cracks under stress). I am going to attempt this at some point.

[pomocanthus]

Sheldon (flyboy)

So did you end up doing the R&R yourself? Where did you get the parts? If you brought to indy shop I'd like to know where and also your experience with the shop. I am in Houston also.

Thanks,

Hung

[h00dedclaw]

this is really anoying for me also would a silicone spray work ???? or WD40 sorry if that sounds dumb but i am when it comes to these sorts of things also i notice on other threads could be loose anti rol bar where is that and how do i get to it i think i can tighten a bolt or two ok.....gulp !

[timbo]

Sprays won't work because they can't get to the route of the problem, inside the joint the ball end usually fits in a plastic cup and is sealed with grease on manufacture, I don't know why this dries up but it just does, then it creeks. If you want a temporary fix then get a syringe with some thick oil in it, push the needle through the rubber gator arround the joint and inject some oil. Did this on mine two months ago, no noise since. Ok the joint may need replacing if it has got play in it, but it gives you some time to sort it properly with out cringing every time you go over a bump with passers by stareing at your car for all the wrong reasons.

[h00dedclaw]

im going into the main dealer tomorrow so they can pinpoint the problem but he said the same as this thread.. new arms £190.00 each !!! and 1.6 hrs labour to fit for a grand total of £632.00 the car is 9 years old now so i guess its ok as long as they dont go in that time again.... you cant own a porsche and not expect some big bills i guess always frustrating there is no easier fix like new rubbers and cup bit replacement but heh ho !

[Richard Hamilton]

Why take it to an OPC? An independent specialist will do the job just as well, and at less than half the labour rate.

[h00dedclaw]

well the reason i went to main dealer was accessability the nearest speacialist is 40 minute drive each way etc etc anyway good news main dealer put on ramp and said its only driver side thats gone.. so it cost £300 quid 45 mins labour so extra travel time etc not worth it in this case... noise completly gone now... its bliss it really spolit the drive and this is definatly money well spent imo !!!!!!