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Recommended Posts

Posted

I just bought an 02 Targa and also got a K & N Intake for it. I did a search and noticed that some members have had problems with the intake causing CEL's and driveablity issues. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. I have yet to install it and will not if the responses are negative.

Specifically...

Does it make a noticeable performance gain?

Did it cause you to trip CEL codes, and if so after how many miles?

Did it negatively effect driveability?

Thanks so much in advance.

Posted

If you are talking about the panel filter then, had on my previous cars and:

1. Prob makes no difference to perfromance that you woud notice, does make a better sound though

2. CEL will be triggered if the filter is overoiled and oil gets onto the maf

3. as above

Hope that helps.

Posted

Thanks for the reply.

I actually was referring to the whole intake. I think they call it the Procharger Kit. I got it from Vivid Racing for like $260.

Posted

Hi,

Same applies re cel and overoiling, if its a heat shielded k+n filter charger you prob see some increase in hp but again weather it be noticeable.

I had a k+n 57i type kit which you do get an induction roar but as it had not heat shield, it actually sapped power.

Good luck with your mods.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

  • 1 month later...
Posted

If you change to a K&N air filter, or swap out your factory air box for one of those cold air intake kits with the cone-type air filter, be sure to DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before you start the car again. Doing this can help prevent your CEL (Check Engine Light) from coming on.

Why? Because disconnecting the battery "resets" the engine computer. When the battery is reconnected, the engine computer will start learning from scratch, with the new, higher-flow air intake. If you do not purge the computer's memory, it will detect a sudden change in the intake air, and this can trigger the CEL.

You can disconnect the battery for up to 20 seconds and not have to re-input your radio codes. But for this type of change, be sure to leave the battery disconnected for at least 50 seconds. This will purge the machine.

Be careful how much oil you put on the filter. You may want to oil the filter, and then leave it standing on end for 2-3 days. Wipe up any excess that collects under the filter, and blot the part of the filter closer to the ground to be sure you won't be dripping any filter oil into your intake. (If you stand the filter on end for a couple of days and you get some drips, you're using too much oil...)

I've had a factory K&N installed in my '99 C4 for 15k miles so far. There may be a couple of HP there, but for me, I like the reduced cost and environmentally friendliness of a re-useable filter.

Dan

Posted
If you change to a K&N air filter, or swap out your factory air box for one of those cold air intake kits with the cone-type air filter, be sure to DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before you start the car again. Doing this can help prevent your CEL (Check Engine Light) from coming on.

Why? Because disconnecting the battery "resets" the engine computer. When the battery is reconnected, the engine computer will start learning from scratch, with the new, higher-flow air intake. If you do not purge the computer's memory, it will detect a sudden change in the intake air, and this can trigger the CEL.

You can disconnect the battery for up to 20 seconds and not have to re-input your radio codes. But for this type of change, be sure to leave the battery disconnected for at least 50 seconds. This will purge the machine.

Be careful how much oil you put on the filter. You may want to oil the filter, and then leave it standing on end for 2-3 days. Wipe up any excess that collects under the filter, and blot the part of the filter closer to the ground to be sure you won't be dripping any filter oil into your intake. (If you stand the filter on end for a couple of days and you get some drips, you're using too much oil...)

I've had a factory K&N installed in my '99 C4 for 15k miles so far. There may be a couple of HP there, but for me, I like the reduced cost and environmentally friendliness of a re-useable filter.

Dan

99 996 installed 10k miles ago. Slight improvement in performance with nice sound. Definitely reset computer using disconnect batt procedure.

I skipped the K&N oiled filter and bought an AEM Dryfilter to prevent MAF issues. If you need a part number let me know.

jb

Posted (edited)
If you change to a K&N air filter, or swap out your factory air box for one of those cold air intake kits with the cone-type air filter, be sure to DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before you start the car again. Doing this can help prevent your CEL (Check Engine Light) from coming on.

Why? Because disconnecting the battery "resets" the engine computer. When the battery is reconnected, the engine computer will start learning from scratch, with the new, higher-flow air intake. If you do not purge the computer's memory, it will detect a sudden change in the intake air, and this can trigger the CEL.

You can disconnect the battery for up to 20 seconds and not have to re-input your radio codes. But for this type of change, be sure to leave the battery disconnected for at least 50 seconds. This will purge the machine.

Be careful how much oil you put on the filter. You may want to oil the filter, and then leave it standing on end for 2-3 days. Wipe up any excess that collects under the filter, and blot the part of the filter closer to the ground to be sure you won't be dripping any filter oil into your intake. (If you stand the filter on end for a couple of days and you get some drips, you're using too much oil...)

I've had a factory K&N installed in my '99 C4 for 15k miles so far. There may be a couple of HP there, but for me, I like the reduced cost and environmentally friendliness of a re-useable filter.

Dan

"..., it will detect a sudden change in the intake air....."

Really...??!!

If you completely removed ALL intake filtering it would only be effective, make a difference, at WOT and at or near the RPM and engine "loading" wherein peak intake airflow occurs. Otherwise the throttle butterfly valve itself is the MAJOR restriction to intake airflow.

And even should you immediately do so, at WOT and maximum intake airflow, do you really think the engine ECU will see the slight difference in airflow restriction?

NOT...!!!

So, just what do you get with a K&N vs an OEM filter.

1. NOISE....!

2. Possible MAF/IAT sensor module failures.

3. Possible premature engine failure.

May I suggest a simple test that could also be used as a "burn-in" procedure for those of you who still insist on using a K&N or the like?

Use a home vacuum cleaner to provide a means of wicking the inadvertent over oiling off of the K&N.

After you CAREFULLY oil the K&N put it in the vacuum path with a new vacuum filter and after an hour look to see how much oil has been wicked from the K&N and onto the vacuum filter.

Edited by wwest
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

There are always pros and cons to ProChargers (filter chargers), hopefully the Pros are greater. Any more input on this? I was also thinking of putting a ProCharger with the AEM dry filter. I believe the K&N filter does not have a CARB number so may be a pain to pass SMOG inspection. :huh:

  • 1 month later...
Posted

The ECU will notice the difference. It knows O^2 content at X RPM and calculates fuel input. If there is a change larger than Y (new values don't align with history), can trigger CEL. Ask your dealer.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Don't know if this really will help here but I can respond as follows:

I have had two cars using K&N filter kits. The first was an Acura CL using a Comptech box with KN filter. I heard much more intake noise and fuel economy improved 2 mpg in my long distance drive. No CEL issues with the Acura. I put a cold air intake kit on a BMW 328 coupe (E46). Again heard more intake noise. Doubt there was any performance improvement. I again saw 2 mpg increase in fuel mileage. Started to get some CEL lights. Couldn't ever trace them down. I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. Still occasionally had issues with CEL. Never any driveability concerns. Incidentally, I replace the stock Continental Conti Sport tires with Goodyear F1's and saw an immediate 2 mpg loss.

Still, I might like more intake noise from my Porsche but I don't want to increase chances for failure. I am leaving mine stock.

Posted

I've had a K&N Air charger on my '03 C4 Cab for about a year now. (8K miles) No CEL to date. AMAZING sound improvement for the price! Difficult to say if there is an improvement in hp but it certainly feels that way(could be just the better sound). I also think there's an improvement in throttle response. That having been said, I worry about driving in heavy rain given the possibility of introducing water into the engine and I worry about the decrease in air filtration causing more dirt to get in and possibly causing sludging. Any thoughts?

Posted

I just installed the K&N cone filter setup and it only took 2 days before the MAS went bad. I just got my car tested by our local Porsche tuner due to my check engine light was on and it the car was running really bad. After hooking it up to the computer it clearly showed the MAS was out of range. After the Porsche tuner guy laughed at my problem due to the amount of people he sees come in with the same problem he explained to me that the K&N filter was a bogus upgrade and after putting several cars on the dyno he has yet to see any really horse power gain. He told me that if I want to run the K&N setup, the best way to keep the MAS from going out is to clean the filter really good to remove the oil and run it dry using the dry charge sock that comes with it. It does not take very much oil to get sucked into the MAS and hender it's ability to read the air flow correctly.

It appears I have to purchase a new MAS due to the new K&N install. I did not add any additional oil to the filter and only installed it fresh out of the box. I did expect it before hand and it did not appear to have any signs of over oiled.

Hope this information helps.

Mike

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