Rear Trunk Release Not Working on Remote

[dmenn]

Hi all,

Let me give you some background first. I have a 2000 Boxster S with Factory Aerokit I. The fuse for the rear spoiler is plugged in. The connector for the spoiler motor in the trunk is unplugged and the connector for the trunk release mechanism is plugged in.

I have never been able to open the rear trunk with the remote since I've had the car. The previous owner said it didn't work because the Aerokit wing was too heavy. I've spoken to someone else who has the Aerokit I and his trunk release works on his remote. When I hold down the trunk button on my remote, I do not get any sound from the trunk area. The remote works fine for locking/unlocking the car. I tested both remotes and get the same results. I assume the remote is working properly.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be wrong?

Thanks,

Dave

[mikefocke]

Are you sure you are holding the trunk lock release button down long enough. It takes about 2-3 seconds to work. I know I made the mistake of thinking it was like the buttons for all my other cars until someone pointed out to me the difference by design. It ios mentioned in the Owner's Manual but is easy to overlook.

[Tool Pants]

Make sure your front trunk is closed.

Open your rear trunk with the door sill lever. The rear trunk light should be on. Then push the latch down with your finger and close the latch. If you cannot push hard enough with your finger then use a screwdriver. When the latch is closed the trunk light will go out.

Then push on your button and watch the latch to see if it unlocks - if not try the other remote. Listen for any noise. If it still does not unlock with the remote then use the door sill lever to lever to unlock it.

Report back.

[dmenn]

OK - Thanks for the feedback guys.

Mike - I've definitely been holding the remote button for many seconds, so no luck there.

Tool Pants - I followed the procedure you described. The trunk latch does not move or make any noises when I hold down the trunk release button on my remote. I tried both remotes. I had to use the door sill lever to get the latch open again, so that I could close my trunk.

Any other thoughts or things I could try?

Thanks!

[Tool Pants]

There is a black plastic cover for the latch with 2 screws. Remove the cover and see if the cable for the remote is broken. I think on your year there is a black on top and below that white. You may have to pull back the carpet to see what is going on.

In the first pic the black cable is broken. I think the black is for the lever. In the second pic the white is broken. I think the white is for the remote. Or maybe I'm confused because there is also the emergency release cable.

When you push the remote button a solenoid pulls on the cable and opens the latch. I think Porsche calls it an actuator. If the cable for the solenoid is broken then that is why your remote does not work. If it is not broken then I would guess a bad soleniod, more so since you do not hear it trying to work. Or, there is something wrong with the control unit under the seat. Also check the fuse.

[dmenn]

Ok, I pulled off the plastic cover and both the black and white cables are connected. While I was in there I decided to plug in the spoiler motor and I tested that with the switch by the fuse box, and the spoiler moves up and down. So, that tells me there is power going to that plug and that the fuse is fine.

I tried the remote again and I get no noise whatsoever.

Could the dealer have potentially disabled the remote trunk function when the Aerokit was initially installed? Is that even an option on the PST2 tool?

Are there any other things I can check to try and narrow the problem down?

Thanks!

[Tool Pants]

I do not know of a function on the PST2 to disable the remote trunk function, but that may be a Loren question. I cannot understand why this would need to be done - with your style aerokit I can understand the need to disable the moveable spoiler - not the remote trunk unlock. But the spoiler is disconnected by separating the connector.

I wonder if your trunk release actuator has been disconnected, or is bad? I have a 1997 and my setup is not like the 2 prior pictures, so I cannot look at my car. Maybe see if you can find a connector (other than the spoiler) that has been disconnected. I have never worked on one so I am not sure exactly where it is located. Trace the cable back.

Per the 2000 wiring diagram the actuator has 2 wires. One wire is red/black, so you look for a red with a black stripe. The wiring diagram makes no sense for the second wire, because it is shown as black/black. So I guess you look for a solid black wire.

If this helps the parts diagram has your model year actuator as #20. #22 is that part for a newer car. #13 is the motor for the spoiler.

[dmenn]

Thanks for the fast replies and detailed information ToolPants ...

I plan to do some maintenance on the car after work throughout the week, so I'll try and spend some time and see if I can locate the actuator. I would imagine that if I hold down the trunk button on my remote, some voltage should come up those two wires to activate the actuator. I can get my voltmeter out and do some testing to see if the voltage is getting to the unit or not. Hopefully that will help narrow things down.

I will report back on this thread within the next week I hope ....

[dmenn]

Update:

I pulled the rear spoiler and the rear trunk area so I could get in there and investigate this some more. I was able to locate this 'trunk actuator' and it actually resembles #22 in the picture above. The part number on the casing is 996.624.117.01. Does that align with your part diagram?

So I looked through the electrical wiring diagrams in my Bentley manual, and the plug going into this actuator has a red wire and black wire with a blue stripe on it. Per the manual, the red wire has +12V on it. I checked it and indeed it does. The black/blue wire comes straight from the alarm control unit and I was unable to tell what the voltage should be. It was reading about .3 to .4 volts. So, I did a test, and after holding the trunk buttond down for 2-3 seconds, the voltmeter spiked. However, I was unable to tell what it spiked to because I have a digital voltmeter and not an analog one. If I knew it was supposed to spike to +12V, I would test it outside of the car.

However, based on these results, it seems to me that the remote and computer is working properly and the computer is sending the voltage signal to the actuator at the right time. I assume the actuator must be bad.

When doing a search on this part number I listed above, it didn't mention trunk actuator. Pelican Parts calls it a 'Setting Element'. A similar part number but with 00 at the end instead of 01 is called 'Release Actuator'. So do I need to buy both of these parts? Tool Pants - do they list more than one part number for item #22 in that part diagram you have?

Thanks!!

[dmenn]

A few pictures attached .. as you can see, it definitely looks like item #22 in that picture you showed me. My car was sold in mid-2000, so perhaps they started using that new part when they built my car.

I did a bit of research and it seems as if part #22 is 986.512.117.00. Tool Pants - does that look right to you, based on your part list? I know it says for 01+, but this definitely looks like what I have.

[Glyn]

A few pictures attached .. as you can see, it definitely looks like item #22 in that picture you showed me. My car was sold in mid-2000, so perhaps they started using that new part when they built my car.

I did a bit of research and it seems as if part #22 is 986.512.117.00. Tool Pants - does that look right to you, based on your part list? I know it says for 01+, but this definitely looks like what I have.

Having tried so many things have you attempted sending a 12 volt supply to the solenoid from a 12 volt battery, the unit unplugged from the car of course, if you hear nothing then you will know the solenoid has died

Glyn

[dmenn]

Update:

I tested the unit outside of the car and it worked. The red wire was +12V and the black/blue one needed to go to Ground. Also, the actual wire that pulled on the trunk lock needed to go to ground. With that combination, it actuated exactly as it should.

Looks like I might have to go to the dealer for this one, as it looks like it is probably a central alarm unit problem.

I will provide updates as I have more information.

[Tool Pants]

PET has the actuator for 1997-2000 as 996 624 117 00 and it is shown as #20 on the parts diagram. 2001 up is 986 512 117 00 and is shown as #22 on the diagram. But as you say, yours looks like #22. So the diagram is wrong (and it would not be the first time PET has been wrong) or you got a weird car.

Let us know what it turns out to be. Funny that it apparently has never worked, but then I could not see what it would have to do with the fact you have an Aerokit.

[dmenn]

Update:

I took my car to the dealer today and they fixed it! They had to recode the computer/keys and now everything works fine. They said they've seen it happen in the past when the computer needs to be reconfigured.

Thanks for all the help on here guys!

[juniinc]

How much did they charge U?

Update:

I took my car to the dealer today and they fixed it! They had to recode the computer/keys and now everything works fine. They said they've seen it happen in the past when the computer needs to be reconfigured.

Thanks for all the help on here guys!

[secretaznman4u]

bringing this back, I am having the same issue. but mines electrical. I can open with the inside button but not the remote button. How much did the stealer charge. Also did you notice your interior lights not working?

[markdav]

Interesting - I have an early 2000 and this just started to happen (door unlock works, trunk does not). I changed the battery recently. I wonder if I need the dealer re-code. Again, good to know if dealers are charging for this kind of work.