Adjustable clutch ?

[deschodt]

It just occured to me why, in my "new" 996 (03), I'm sometimes less smooth than normal on gear changes. The clutch only grabs on the last inch of pedal travel (when almost fully released). Does that point ot a worn clutch or is it adjustable ? I'd like for engagement to happen lower (closer to the floor, more mid travel)... The clutch seems fine other than that, really... no slippage, smooth shifts, it's just the final release at the very top of the travel sometimes throws off 20 years of "technique", and I think it's easier to fix the car than me at this point ;-)

PS: just in case, I'm OK with all other cars, it's not me, allright ? ;-) Thanks !

[Loren]

The clutch is hydraulic so there is technically no adjustment possible. There is however, a small amount of adjustment in the clutch master cylinder pushrod.

Not as much as you would like but there is a little there.

[deschodt]

The clutch is hydraulic so there is technically no adjustment possible. There is however, a small amount of adjustment in the clutch master cylinder pushrod.

Not as much as you would like but there is a little there.

I've read on another site somebody suggested that you get adjustability by introducing a bit of air to the clutch hydraulic system. (press pedal a bit, open bleeder, let pedal go, repeat till the engagement is where you want it). That would lower the engagement point... Is that possible? I can see this working if it weren't shared with the brakes, but if it is, then it's dangerous....

Also read that clutch wear - on a hydraulic system - has nothing to do with engagement point...

My clutch doe snot slip at all... I just dislike the fact that it engages so high off the floor. I drove a new 987 that did not do that, but never drove a new 996. Where does it grab on the pedal travel when new ?

Thanks !

[Westcoaster]

The clutch is hydraulic so there is technically no adjustment possible. There is however, a small amount of adjustment in the clutch master cylinder pushrod.

Not as much as you would like but there is a little there.

I've read on another site somebody suggested that you get adjustability by introducing a bit of air to the clutch hydraulic system. (press pedal a bit, open bleeder, let pedal go, repeat till the engagement is where you want it). That would lower the engagement point... Is that possible? I can see this working if it weren't shared with the brakes, but if it is, then it's dangerous....

Also read that clutch wear - on a hydraulic system - has nothing to do with engagement point...

My clutch doe snot slip at all... I just dislike the fact that it engages so high off the floor. I drove a new 987 that did not do that, but never drove a new 996. Where does it grab on the pedal travel when new ?

Thanks !

Your description sounds just like my old 986 (my03), grabbed just at the end of the travel, prognosis by the dealer: time for a new clutch!

As a comparison, I recently bought a new 987, and the clutch is wonderful, engages about midway through the pedal travel, waaaay easier to modulate the clutch release!

I wouldn't recommend introducing air into the hydraulic system, IMHO a bogus way to 'simulate' different clutch behaviour! The clutch hydraulic system is completely separate from the brakes, but I still would not 'repair' your clutch this way.

As for engagement point and clutch wear, you seem to be experiencing the effect of a worn clutch, so this would prove that statement to be incorrect too.

Unfortunately, I think that unless there is a problem in the clutch hydraulic system, your car looks to be in need a clutch job.

[mpikounis]

I wouldn't recommend introducing air into the hydraulic system, IMHO a bogus way to 'simulate' different clutch behaviour! The clutch hydraulic system is completely separate from the brakes, but I still would not 'repair' your clutch this way.

I think brakes and clutch share the same hydraulics in the 996 (except TT I think). So my advice would be not to try and repair the clutch behaviour this way.

[Westcoaster]

I wouldn't recommend introducing air into the hydraulic system, IMHO a bogus way to 'simulate' different clutch behaviour! The clutch hydraulic system is completely separate from the brakes, but I still would not 'repair' your clutch this way.

I think brakes and clutch share the same hydraulics in the 996 (except TT I think). So my advice would be not to try and repair the clutch behaviour this way.

Really!?, then I stand corrected, even a BIGGER reason not to add air to system designed to properly operate without it.

Edited February 3, 2007 by Westcoaster

[deschodt]

Ok, update: I had my mechanic adjust the pedal like Loren indicated, and while it's not much it's.... much better! The engagement went down an inch or so.

That said I still have the occasional problem of the shift feeling not smooth, and it's not consistent... My clutch might be tired... I can't tell because it does not slip...

I think, from paying attention to each shift, that it happens when the next gear is "engaged" pretty much at the cutoff where variocam kicks in. That little variocam stutter around 3200 rpm might make the clutch go "doink" a little bit.... But sometimes I get it when I press the clutch pedal (before even changing gears), like the gear disengagement caused the "doink"... I know, highly scientific term, "doink", it's not even a sound, just a feeling of slightly shocking the drivetrain... I've heard others have similar issues on 996s.

My 987 did not do that - then again it has a lot less torque and HP ;-)

[Lee Quave]

The clutch is hydraulic so there is technically no adjustment possible. There is however, a small amount of adjustment in the clutch master cylinder pushrod.

Not as much as you would like but there is a little there.

I just did the clutch spring delete mod on my 99 996 as suggested by a Rennlist member. I do like the feel much better. The large muscles of the leg can feel the engagement better than with the way to soft feel of the clutch with the spring.

I have a clutch with less than 20K miles so I know it’s not worn very much. I would like to adjust the clutch so that it engages sooner.

Is there a DIY on the clutch master cylinder pushrod adjustment?

Thanks,

Lee

[brankota]

Hi, I have been looking for instructions or diagrams for the pushrod adjustment, its not like other cars I worked on, do you remove the link from pedal and just twist the rod to adjust?

Any help, diagrams or even just high resolution pics of master clutch would be helpful thanks.

[Tecra]

Ok, update: I had my mechanic adjust the pedal like Loren indicated, and while it's not much it's.... much better! The engagement went down an inch or so.

That said I still have the occasional problem of the shift feeling not smooth, and it's not consistent... My clutch might be tired... I can't tell because it does not slip...

I think, from paying attention to each shift, that it happens when the next gear is "engaged" pretty much at the cutoff where variocam kicks in. That little variocam stutter around 3200 rpm might make the clutch go "doink" a little bit.... But sometimes I get it when I press the clutch pedal (before even changing gears), like the gear disengagement caused the "doink"... I know, highly scientific term, "doink", it's not even a sound, just a feeling of slightly shocking the drivetrain... I've heard others have similar issues on 996s.

My 987 did not do that - then again it has a lot less torque and HP ;-)

clutch is worn out man. been down that road 3 times in 3 different porsches.