Alot of Smoke in the AM for about 20 seconds

[CJ_Boxster]

Why did this happen.

Currently i have a CEL MAF code and had gotten a P1115 but that hasnt come back in a week after I cleared the code.

I do have an oil leak on the rear passenger side of the engine.

Since yesterday or the day before, my throttle response has been alittle slow and my acceleration has been alittle weaker than im used to in these past 3 days...

Any ideas? or anyone experience this same issue and solved it?

[Chris_in_NH]

this sounds like it may be the start of your Air/Oil Separator going bad. the symptoms you listed can be consistent with a failing A/OS, and also with a failing MAF. if it is the A/OS the smoke will get much worse, smoking the entire time that it's running. since A/OS failure is a real possibility, you will want to check it or get it checked. you can check it by unbolting the throttle body from the intake plenum (only 4 bolts) and look for more than a misting of oil. serious engine damage can occur if the engine is fed too much oil by the A/OS, as the cylinders fill with oil and the pistons are not able to compress the oil, well... the technical term is KABLAMO! :lol:

the leak from the passenger side of the engine sounds like your A/OS bellows tube has a hole (which is common) and is also allowing a vacuum leak.

you can DIY but it's a real pain in the a$$. the parts (new A/OS, bellows tube and J-tube) are only about $120 (from Suncoast Porsche), but removing the A/OS is somewhat difficult. i did it with the help of a friend with a lift which made it much easier, as you need to get up in the passenger side wheel well to access the A/OS. i suppose you could do it on jackstands, but i wouldn't want to. for the dealer to do it, it's about $500 (parts & labor.)

if your MAF is bad you can have all kinds of acceleration/throttle response/misfiring, etc issues. if you want to see if it's the MAF, take it out of the car, take the neg battery cable off the battery for a minute which will reset the DME/ECU (have radio code if you need it), then re-attach the neg battery cable and take it for a drive. the car will run fine without the MAF installed. see if you notice a difference with the MAF removed. if the car runs better (no more hesitation, etc.) then it's the MAF sending wacky signals to the engine controller.

alternately, you could swap the MAF from someone else's car into your car to see if it runs better (make sure you disconnect the neg battery cable so the DME will adapt to the new MAF, and do it again after you replace your old MAF).

a new MAF is around $270 and you could do it yourself in about 15 minutes. the MAF is held in by two screws. take out old MAF, put in new MAF, reset DME - DONE! (you will need a security Torx driver to do this, size T-20 IIRC.)

but i would rule out A/OS failure ASAP.

[liifesfun]

this sounds like it may be the start of your Air/Oil Separator going bad. the symptoms you listed can be consistent with a failing A/OS, and also with a failing MAF. if it is the A/OS the smoke will get much worse, smoking the entire time that it's running. since A/OS failure is a real possibility, you will want to check it or get it checked. you can check it by unbolting the throttle body from the intake plenum (only 4 bolts) and look for more than a misting of oil. serious engine damage can occur if the engine is fed too much oil by the A/OS, as the cylinders fill with oil and the pistons are not able to compress the oil, well... the technical term is KABLAMO! :lol:

the leak from the passenger side of the engine sounds like your A/OS bellows tube has a hole (which is common) and is also allowing a vacuum leak.

you can DIY but it's a real pain in the a$$. the parts (new A/OS, bellows tube and J-tube) are only about $120 (from Suncoast Porsche), but removing the A/OS is somewhat difficult. i did it with the help of a friend with a lift which made it much easier, as you need to get up in the passenger side wheel well to access the A/OS. i suppose you could do it on jackstands, but i wouldn't want to. for the dealer to do it, it's about $500 (parts & labor.)

if your MAF is bad you can have all kinds of acceleration/throttle response/misfiring, etc issues. if you want to see if it's the MAF, take it out of the car, take the neg battery cable off the battery for a minute which will reset the DME/ECU (have radio code if you need it), then re-attach the neg battery cable and take it for a drive. the car will run fine without the MAF installed. see if you notice a difference with the MAF removed. if the car runs better (no more hesitation, etc.) then it's the MAF sending wacky signals to the engine controller.

alternately, you could swap the MAF from someone else's car into your car to see if it runs better (make sure you disconnect the neg battery cable so the DME will adapt to the new MAF, and do it again after you replace your old MAF).

a new MAF is around $270 and you could do it yourself in about 15 minutes. the MAF is held in by two screws. take out old MAF, put in new MAF, reset DME - DONE! (you will need a security Torx driver to do this, size T-20 IIRC.)

but i would rule out A/OS failure ASAP.

see my seperate post today, I disconnected the MAF today after reading this and I have a new car, a multitude of symptoms dissapeared. its a quick and simple check