Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

The heater control on my '86 930 will not work. I removed the box behind the E-brake. It is getting power, the heat sensor at the heat exchanger seems to be working fine.

I don't know how to test the dash board sensor, servo motor, or circuit board.

Any advice?

Rick

Posted (edited)
Is the problem that the fans don't turn on?

or does it blow cold air?

The fans run strong, but the flappers at the heat exchanger aren't closing. The cables are free and the flappers move freely too. The servo motor is not moving the rod to actuate the flappers. Therefore, I am not getting heat, only fresh air.

If it was up to me I would eliminate all the sophisicated electronics/motors/sensors and just install a lever system like in the older cars. Let's face it, Most people driving this car are driver types and don't mind some road noise, climbing into the seats, knowing how to use the tool kit, and adjusting a manual heater system.

But, I do have a desire to maintain the originality of the car and therefore will attempt to rectify the heater problem.

Thanks for your help

Edited by Rickster2
  • Admin
Posted

Have you had a look at the mechanical cable connections?

Inside the automatic heater, there is a link which operates the lever for the heater cables. It is attached by a small plastic ball end socket that screws on. You can see this by removing the rubber cover on the front of the unit, and looking into the heater unit, on the passenger side. There is also a plastic inspection door on the unit. It is easier to do this if the passenger seat is out. The part number for the socket is 999 168 021 40. Be careful not to pull too hard on the link in the fore-aft direction, as it can damage the motor.

Chris Powell - PCA WebSite - 2/22/2005

Also, ...

There are the two temperature probes. The one in each heater duct and the the unit above the mirror. If either one of these sensors go bad the reference point for the controls is no longer valid. The heater bases its control on resistance of the sensors which is converted to temperature. It then uses the interior temp and the heater duct temp as a delta reference. The sensor in the interior of the car at room temp should be apx 1.5kOhm. The sensor in the duct with the engine warm (212 Fahrenheit) and should be apx 135 ohm. If both of these are bad the unit could have a bad switch or control unit. The control switch can be checked, but must come apart. The control unit should have switched 12 volts to it. If the lines are dead then the control unit is good. The cost of the control unit is very high and should it be bad I would try to search for a good used one or remove it all together.

Stephen Kaspar - PCA WebSite - 9/9/2003

If neither of those help let me know and I'll see if I can find my 930 service manual and lookup the wiring.

Posted

OK, I'm not very knowledgable with electic but can use an Ohm meter. Considering the linkage, I have the control box completely removed from the car. While it was still in the car I worked the controls to see if the servo motor would move. Since my engine is not in the car (top end job) I heated the rear sensor at the heat duct and watched my Ohm meter change as I heated the sensor. I could not get the motor to move. All linkage is connected and cables and heater boxes are free moving.

The only sensor I am aware of that is inside of the car is the dashboard sensor which is connected by a rubber hose to an inlet that is to the right of my steering wheel. I might be missing something there! And, I did not know how to test the dashboard sensor.

I also confirmed that I am getting power to the control box.

I thought I could energize the motor and confirm that it works. But, I could not figure out how to test it.

Otherwise, it sounds like I should wait for my engine and check the system with a warm motor. The Ohm meter values are helpful. I will revisit this problem in a month or so unless someone can suggest how to test with no engine.

Thanks again for all the help

Rick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.