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Recommended Posts

Posted

Done a few searches and need to try replacing the oil separator. Unfortunately I cannot find a DIY for the 996 or part numbers required.

Car is 2002 C2 996 and smokes regularly and quite a lot on startup and I believe it puffs the odd time out on runs according to a friend.

I have also had the car spew out serious smoke before after cornerning fast on hairpin bends and at the nurburgring, although this has only happened a couple of times.

Also there is oil staining on the oil filler neck at the bottom, would this need replacing also?

So, question is, what parts I need and how to fit basically?

Thanks in advance

Paul

Posted

Got the parts from OPC Reading (UK) the other day.

Unfortunately the job of removal of the old one has been somewhat a nightmare due to the 2 bolts holding the part onto the block have changed position from 2002 onwards. They are now seated vertically at the seam as opposed to horizontally at the bottom which makes removal of them next to impossible without removal of the engine. I have got one out but I cannot get a spanner to the other one (well I can, but there is no room to lever it).

There are no bellows on this part as one of the pipes seals with an o ring straight into the block where the bellows used to be, hence the reason for the changing of position of the bolts from my reckoning.

Need some inspiration on this - has anyone ever done this on a 2002 996?

Is there an access panel above the engine from inside the car does anyone know?

I'm getting worried I may have to give this one up as a DIY and resort to taking it to Northway (local independant) on a trailer but that would be cheating, I'm sure there must be a way of changing such a simple part without removing the lump.

Hope someone can help

Regards

Paul

Posted

Not sure how much room you do or don't have up there with the engine in place. If you can get the wrench (spanner) on but can't move it laterally to loosen it you might be able to do it with a gearless ratchet like the one MAC tools sells. I also assume that you've got a proper shorty style open end / box end wrench rather than a full size?

Posted

took out alternator (generator) and intake distributor in the end which just gives enough access.

Just got to put it all back together now and hope for the best

Cheers

Paul

Posted

All back together now, was straight forward enough with the access given by removing generator and intake distributor but just took time as it was awkward working in the small space.

Took about 3 hours to fit it all back together, amazingly there were no fixings left over and I remembered where all the vacuum hoses went etc etc. Thoroughly cleaned the throttle bodies and intake distributors off all the oil residue that was covering them.

Used the opportunity to remove the MAF sensor and cleaned that out with electrical contact cleaner and cotton wool bud and blew out with compressed air. Also cleaned the air filter out with compressed air.

Topped up the oil to maximum and the coolant (some of this comes out when removing the old separator) and took it out for a spin.

Gladly, there were no warnings when switching the ignition on and starting the car and all guages were normal so off I went.

The car is now much more responsive than it was, obviously as a result of no oil vapour passing through the combustion chambers and the MAF/filter being cleaned. It is much smoother driving now especially in town. Also there used to be a noticable step/jerk at 3000 rpm as it changed variocam settings both up and down the revs and this has disappeared now also.

Once it was fully warmed, I tested it to the upper limits of it's performance and it was great smile.gif

All in all a right result, just got to monitor the oil consumption now to make sure all is well.

Cheers

Paul

  • 1 year later...
Posted
All back together now, was straight forward enough with the access given by removing generator and intake distributor but just took time as it was awkward working in the small space.

Took about 3 hours to fit it all back together, amazingly there were no fixings left over and I remembered where all the vacuum hoses went etc etc. Thoroughly cleaned the throttle bodies and intake distributors off all the oil residue that was covering them.

Used the opportunity to remove the MAF sensor and cleaned that out with electrical contact cleaner and cotton wool bud and blew out with compressed air. Also cleaned the air filter out with compressed air.

Topped up the oil to maximum and the coolant (some of this comes out when removing the old separator) and took it out for a spin.

Gladly, there were no warnings when switching the ignition on and starting the car and all guages were normal so off I went.

The car is now much more responsive than it was, obviously as a result of no oil vapour passing through the combustion chambers and the MAF/filter being cleaned. It is much smoother driving now especially in town. Also there used to be a noticable step/jerk at 3000 rpm as it changed variocam settings both up and down the revs and this has disappeared now also.

Once it was fully warmed, I tested it to the upper limits of it's performance and it was great smile.gif

All in all a right result, just got to monitor the oil consumption now to make sure all is well.

Cheers

Paul

Paul,

Thanks for the useful information. I am looking at AOS repair myself and thought I'd resurrect this to see what other info I could get.

Found this link searching for a oil separator DIY. Any more useful tips or a time estimate? I was actually thinking of using the Motorsports part p/n 996 107 926 00.

A few specific questions:

1. Would lowering the engine a couple of inches help?

2. How long did this take you? I'm trying to decide whether to DIY or take to an indy.

Thanks so much!

Tonger

  • Moderators
Posted

On 996 with manual transmission it's much easier to work with removed gear box to get access, faster and better overview.

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