Disconnecting Battery

[paulg1]

If batter is removed from 997 for extended period of time (2-4 months) does this cause any damage to auto's electrical systems? At reinstallation, when must be done to re-set all the systems that have been discontinued? Is is better to use charger?

Thanks

[Loren]

I think it is better to use a charger.

Also, if it is going to sit for a long period of time then consider gas stabilizer and tire cradles (or put the car on jack stands).

[Deanski]

I think it is better to use a charger.

Also, if it is going to sit for a long period of time then consider gas stabilizer and tire cradles (or put the car on jack stands).

I too will be removing the battery for storage of my 997S. I guess the hood (boot) cannot be fully closed once the battery is out.

As for jack stands, not a good idea as it will expose shock cylinder to rusting. Better off with inflate tires to 50-60 lbs and use Tire Cradles.

Deanski

[BennyGca]

I stored my C2S last year, and my M3 for the 3 previous years.

All you need to do is buy a battery maintainer to keep charge and the battery from freezing, over-inflate the tires to about 50-55psi (no flat spots in the spring), and cover with a breathable car cover.

I also have the yearly service done before storing, fill the gas tank to the top and add stabilizer.

A few people have mentioned not to leave the car on jacks for the exact reason Deanski mentioned, parts of the suspension would be exposed that usually aren't.

Everything worked perfectly when I took her out after a 4 month hibernation, started without hesitation.

[gchu]

I storage my RX-7 & Impala in the last 10 years by using only the battery maintainers and inflate tires to 55psi. Never had any problem. I rolled the cars back & forward few feet every 3 months.

The gas tanks of both cars were low during storage. I will have to start to use gas stabilizer next time when I take it out of storage. Once a year, the engine starts no problem but the car feel like lost power. I am sure it is the old gas.

[BennyGca]

...maybe try to fill the tanks next time. Less chance of humidity forming in the vacant part of the tank.

Doing an oil change 1st will also reduce the chance of impurities settling.

[RayGT3]

Forget the stabilizer unless you are going to have the car in storage over a year. Normal gas is good, as far as I know, up to 3 years.

[wvicary]

Always use a stabilizer, gasoline can go off in a matter of months in some cases. It's best to add the stabilizer, fill the tank and then run the engine so the stabilizer can be introduced into the entire fuel system.

[RayGT3]

I've been storing cars over the winter (Buffalo) for more than 20 years and have never used a shelf life gas additive and have never had an "old" gas related problem. If the use of additives gives you a sense of security, by all means use them. But IMHO they are not needed unless there is a long storage period forseen (longer than 1 year). Although I do recommend the topping off the tank before storage, as others have mentioned, to reduce possible condensation.

[paulg1]

O.K.

Thanks for advice.

My plan is to:

Battery maintainer

Tires @ 50 lb.

Full tank of gas

[wvicary]

We prep about 20 cars for storage every winter and use stabilizer, why take the risk of damaging something over a $7.00 dollar bottle of stabilizer?? But in the end it's your money and spend it as you see fit.

[Deanski]

My problem is the garage where it will be stored has no power. Therefore I have to remove the battery.

Once out, is there a way to close the hood (boot) once the battery is out and then reopen it via the attachments in the fuse box area come spring? :unsure: :help: Seeing there is not a battery for continuity for the connection, I assume it cannot be opened once closed and the fuse box emergency attachemenst are used.

My guess is I have to keep the hood cracked when I cover it for the winter.

Regards,

Deanski

[BennyGca]

No power? Well now I understand why you were planning on removing the battery...

I'm sure there's a manual release for the hood somewhere, incase the button fails. But the easiest thing would be to close the lid to where the safety latch catches.

[gchu]

My problem is the garage where it will be stored has no power. Therefore I have to remove the battery.

Once out, is there a way to close the hood (boot) once the battery is out and then reopen it via the attachments in the fuse box area come spring? :unsure: :help: Seeing there is not a battery for continuity for the connection, I assume it cannot be opened once closed and the fuse box emergency attachemenst are used.

My guess is I have to keep the hood cracked when I cover it for the winter.

Regards,

Deanski

There is a emergency release near the front passenge size inner wheel well for the 996. See if the same thing for the 997?

[Deanski]

My problem is the garage where it will be stored has no power. Therefore I have to remove the battery.

Once out, is there a way to close the hood (boot) once the battery is out and then reopen it via the attachments in the fuse box area come spring? :unsure: :help: Seeing there is not a battery for continuity for the connection, I assume it cannot be opened once closed and the fuse box emergency attachemenst are used.

My guess is I have to keep the hood cracked when I cover it for the winter.

Regards,

Deanski

There is a emergency release near the front passenge size inner wheel well for the 996. See if the same thing for the 997?

Never thought of that... I wonder too. I'll have to check this one.

Thanks for the info gchu :thumbup:

Regards,

Deanski