GT3 Running Rough: Durametric Output Logs

[94Speedster]

First post to RennTech, but a long time PCar nut....

My GT3 is now officially put away for the winter, and since we recently had snow (hence salt on the roads), I'd prefer to keep it in the garage until the spring thaw. Anyway, the car ran rough the last day I drove it. Being such a PCar nut, I haven't been able to sleep over the past few weeks as I try ot figure out what is going on. On Wednesday, I purchased the Durametric Code Reader and just got it from FedEx this morning. I hooked it up, and found the following fault codes (with definitions in parenthesis):

P1341 (Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 1 - signal implausible, below limit or above limit)

P0300 (Misfire damaging to catalytic converter)

P0301 (Misfire, Cylinder 1)

P0302 (Misfire, Cylinder 2)

P0306 (Misfire, Cylinder 6)

Also of note, learned the following:

Ignitions (Range 1) 1416 / 207h

Ignitions (Range 2) 0 / 0h

Operating Hours Counted 214h

(That "Range 2" data made me feel good!)

So, what do you think is wrong with the car? Should I be really concerned? Lastly, can it wait to be fixed until Spring?

Thanks!

-Blake

NOTE: the Durametric Tool works great! It took me less than 2 minutes to get it out of the box and running perfectly...

__________________

Advocate, 911 Speedster Registry (PCA)

2004 911 GT3 (White, 8K miles)

1994 911 Speedster (Triple Black, 20K miles)

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1979 911SC Targa (my first 911, gone to new home)

Edited November 17, 2006 by 94Speedster

[Loren]

I would start with the P1341. Look for a shorted or broken wire/connector. If not you will need a new actuator.

With those codes (P0300) your CEL should have been flashing - was it?

[94Speedster]

Thansk Loren. Yes, the CEL was flashing. I took it to the dealer literally 15 minutes after it started flashing(three weeks ago), and they told me that they couldn't get me in for a week due to backlog. From my verbal assessment of the symptoms, they said that I may have moisture in the gas and recommended that I fill it up and run the car at temperature (above 180 degrees F) at above 5,000 RPM. I did that, and the light went out on its own and the car felt strong. Last week, I took the car out again after sitting for two weeks and the rough idle was back. This time, the CEL did not come on at all, so I just drove it home. Of course, the next day we had a big snowstorm and now I am concerned about bringing the car to a dealer due to all of the salt on the road.

-Blake