Help ! Please

[strawfordt]

Hi,

Thanks in advance.

I've searched long and hard but haven't found the answers to my following questions.

Got this hellacious convertible top guy that was to do some free warranty work for me.

This guy was to do warranty repairs to a replacement top malfunction from the previous owner.

I fear he has ruined the most enjoyable car I've ever owned. I'll try to be brief.

Anyway after all kinds of BS and scamming I got the new top after parting with $600.00. So much for free!!!

When I tried the new top for the first time there were all kinds of pops and cracks and the control link with the red bushing broke. That was the second one since I delivered my car to the guy.

I've got the new control arm and ball socket and I am worried that if I just put it on and try the top I'll break it again.

Does anyone know if it can be measured and set before functioning to avoid more broken parts?

All the best

Tom

[joee]

What model and year is your car? If it is an early Boxster you may need to replace the drive gearboxs and flexible shafts from the motor drive to the gear boxes.

[strawfordt]

What model and year is your car? If it is an early Boxster you may need to replace the drive gearboxs and flexible shafts from the motor drive to the gear boxes.

It is a 98.

[strawfordt]

Actually quite happy with my prgoress. However, I have to put the control (push) rods back inand i would like to know how the setting of the rods is done. ie. hoiw do you knopw how long to set them?

All help is appreciated!

[joee]

I would check the TSB's for replacement of the drives and adjustment. Also see manuals. As a start I set the arms to the same length as the old ones. Having been through this I would spend the bucks for the replacement drives. I remember getting it all done with the older drives and then having big problems again....

[strawfordt]

"Mission accomplished" for real.

Answered my own question.

1. Set timing with a level like show here on the forum. - Worked very well. See the picture.

2. I installed and tightened the rods and left the middle adjuster nuts loose, removed those plastic side shields and then I put everything to the closed position but left the back section of the top up (I had to remove the cable at the metal ball sockets from the back of the top). I made sure the clamshell was full down.

3. With the side plastic shields removed, the adjuster nut was accessible. I was able to tighten the nut and after four test cycles I can say there was not a squeak or a pop.

Checked all my cables and they seem to be the type with the re-inforced sheath.

I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best.

Also cleaned the MAF and what a difference. It's like a new car.