Engine Code & Ingition

[flyboyshell]

Hi Guys,

I need help finding out what the code description of the following are and how serious is the problem:

P1128

P1130

I have been doing some research and some people are saying the following:

"You state that only fault 1130 has shown up, has 1128 been pending though? The MAF would effect both banks at the same time showing an 1128 and 1130 fault either pending or present."

Any ideas on how to resolve the problem?

Secondly, I am having problems starting the car. I put the key in, turn to on position and try start it, nothing happens. Sometimes I wil sit for 3-5 trying to start. This is not good, espercially if I stall the car. The dealer "supposedly" replaced the ignition and the car started fine for the 1st day. Then it went back to normal. I am confused. Now he is saying it is the starter.

Help!!

Sheldon

[Chris_in_NH]

Hi Guys,

I need help finding out what the code description of the following are and how serious is the problem:

P1128

P1130

I have been doing some research and some people are saying the following:

"You state that only fault 1130 has shown up, has 1128 been pending though? The MAF would effect both banks at the same time showing an 1128 and 1130 fault either pending or present."

Any ideas on how to resolve the problem?

Secondly, I am having problems starting the car. I put the key in, turn to on position and try start it, nothing happens. Sometimes I wil sit for 3-5 trying to start. This is not good, espercially if I stall the car. The dealer "supposedly" replaced the ignition and the car started fine for the 1st day. Then it went back to normal. I am confused. Now he is saying it is the starter.

Help!!

Sheldon

have you searched this site for 1128/1130? go to the bottom of the forum page and type '1128 1130' and click the 'search forum' button. there is PLENTY of info. these are quite common codes, which could have a number of reasons for being present. the most common being:

-bad Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)

-bad Air/Oil Separator or torn A/OS bellows resulting in vacuum leak

-bad O2 sensor(s)

as far as the ignition, you mentioned that the dealer replaced the ignition switch, so we'll assume it's not the ignition switch. this might be a stupid question, but are you sure that you have the clutch pedal all the way on the floor when you try to start the car? i doubt it's the starter.

also, when starting the car, if the first key turn doesn't start the engine, you must turn the key all the way back to its starting point before you can try to start it again, unlike American cars where you can just turn the key back that 1/4 inch then try to start again.

also, you didn't mention manual or auto (tiptronic) transmission, etc.

Edited October 16, 2006 by Chris_in_NH

[flyboyshell]

Hi Guys,

I need help finding out what the code description of the following are and how serious is the problem:

P1128

P1130

I have been doing some research and some people are saying the following:

"You state that only fault 1130 has shown up, has 1128 been pending though? The MAF would effect both banks at the same time showing an 1128 and 1130 fault either pending or present."

Any ideas on how to resolve the problem?

Secondly, I am having problems starting the car. I put the key in, turn to on position and try start it, nothing happens. Sometimes I wil sit for 3-5 trying to start. This is not good, espercially if I stall the car. The dealer "supposedly" replaced the ignition and the car started fine for the 1st day. Then it went back to normal. I am confused. Now he is saying it is the starter.

Help!!

Sheldon

have you searched this site for 1128/1130? go to the bottom of the forum page and type '1128 1130' and click the 'search forum' button. there is PLENTY of info. these are quite common codes, which could have a number of reasons for being present. the most common being:

-bad Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)

-bad Air/Oil Separator or torn A/OS bellows resulting in vacuum leak

-bad O2 sensor(s)

as far as the ignition, you mentioned that the dealer replaced the ignition switch, so we'll assume it's not the ignition switch. this might be a stupid question, but are you sure that you have the clutch pedal all the way on the floor when you try to start the car? i doubt it's the starter.

also, when starting the car, if the first key turn doesn't start the engine, you must turn the key all the way back to its starting point before you can try to start it again, unlike American cars where you can just turn the key back that 1/4 inch then try to start again.

also, you didn't mention manual or auto (tiptronic) transmission, etc.

Chris,

Thanks for help. I have found some info on the codes and will try the first step in cleaning the MAF carefully before I go ahead and order a new one. I have also ordered a new ignition switch just in case. So come Friday I will be getting down to checking it. Now, my question is what is the procedure for removing the soft top.

Also, where can I get part #'s for the following:

Air/Oil Separator or torn A/OS bellows resulting in vacuum leak

O2 sensor(s)

Oh yeah, its a manual.

[Chris_in_NH]

Thanks for help. I have found some info on the codes and will try the first step in cleaning the MAF carefully before I go ahead and order a new one. I have also ordered a new ignition switch just in case. So come Friday I will be getting down to checking it. Now, my question is what is the procedure for removing the soft top.

Also, where can I get part #'s for the following:

Air/Oil Separator or torn A/OS bellows resulting in vacuum leak

O2 sensor(s)

Oh yeah, its a manual.

whoa... slow down! :rolleyes:

i would clean your MAF first and reset your Check Engine Light (either with a code-reader, or by disconnecting the neg battery cable for a minute or two (this will also reset your ECU/DME which is good)). you will need your radio code to activate the radio if your radio needs a code, so have it handy.

even if you clean your MAF, you may still get codes if it's not the MAF or if the MAF is bad (beyond cleaning).

i don't know why you would need a new ignition switch if you just had it replaced. i seem to remember a thread saying that the part number should end in a 'D'. take a look at your invoice to see if they used the correct part. i'm not 100% on this, but it's worth looking into.

when you try to start the car, do you hear the clutch switch 'click' when you press the clutch to the floor? when you turn the key, does the motor try to turn, or do you just get 'nothing', no sound, no nothing? some people have noticed that their floor mats get under the clutch pedal enough to prevent the clutch from going down all the way. just a thought...

the part numbers for the A/OS (bellows is included with A/OS) and O2 sensors can be found by searching previous posts. i don't have them. you don't really 'need' the part numbers to order them though. best places to get cheap parts are

www.sunsetimports.com

www.suncoastporsche.com

www.autohausaz.com - on this site you can search and see pics of the parts

any of these places will know exactly what you need to order when you talk to them. just tell them Air-Oil Separator and O2 sensor and your model year. prices from all of these places are within a few dollars of each other and are MUCH cheaper than the dealer will charge you.

as for removing the top (LOL), there are instructions in the Conv Top Forum at the top of the 986 Forum Page. take a look at the first post by herc_captain. i posted the instructions i had in that thread. for top-related questions, that's where you should post. btw, why are you removing the conv top fabric? do you already have a replacement top, etc?

[flyboyshell]

Thanks again, Chris.

Let me try clear things up.

I will attempt to get to the engine compartment since I have not had the Porsche long, so I have never really tried to get to it. So I guess that is what my question was concerning that. I did not want to replace the soft top if thats what you thought. Sorry about the misunderstanding. That is the information I am looking for. How to access the engine compartment. I am pretty well training in mechanics, worked on aircrafts for a while, but no Porsches. Hey, you have to start somewhere. Is there anything else I can do while I have access to the engine compartment while I have it open to better maintain the vehicle. Like maybe changing the air-filters, etc? Let me know.

1) I will try get my radio code from the dealer on Thursday since I never code the code which car when I purchased it. Sad, but true.

2) Friday I will attempt to check the MAF, let's hope it is not that serious and just needs a cleaning. From what I am reading in these forums it seems to be a common problem. If not, well, then I will need to investigate further and most like buy a new as the next step. No harm, at least a new one will be installed.

Ok, concerning the starting. When I put the key in and turn it to the on position. All lights come on. However, when I turn the key to start the engine nothing happens. I turn it to the left all the way and attempt it again, sometimes several times and sometimes for a couple of minutes (not good if you stall the car). I find that when I turn the key to actually start the car I jiggle it a little, turn it back to off, then back to start and don't turn the key ALL the way to start position, I just barely turn it enough to start the engine and it starts. This happens when it the engine is cold or hot, so it makes no difference. I cannot imagine why it would be the starter, but who knows. It seems that I have the same symptoms as other members on this site. As far as the the company that did my ignition, I don't see a part # on my receipt. However, he charged me a whopping $88 for the ignition switch which he never had when I first got there and $95 for the labor. I wondering if they just messed with the ignition, cause it feels no different it terms of smoothness when turning the key. That's the problem these days, you can never tell if you have been had. He may have just done a temporary fix on it. Not to mention the $110 for an oil change which is pretty standard apparently. It just surprises me how the part mysteriously came from nowhere that day. Spent $351 that day and all I got was an oil change. :cursing:

Before I end, do you know where I can get some pictures of where the Air-Oil Separator is located?

Thanks again for all your help.

Sheldon

[Chris_in_NH]

Thanks again, Chris.

Sheldon

no problem...

accessing the engine is easy. you want to press the conv top button to raise the 'clamshell' (the part that covers the conv top when it's down) to its highest position in its arc of motion and let go of the conv top button. get out of the car and go to the clamshell you just raised. you need to unclip the rear of the conv top from here. if you look down into the area that the clamshell covers, you will see that the very back of the conv top fabric has a piece of fabric with a long bar that runs the length of the wall that separates this area from the rear trunk. the bar clips under 2 clips (1 on each side) that hold it in place. just unclip it from these two clips. next, on each side of the car, there are black cables that hold the back of the conv top tight to the car. they have silver ends on them that attach to ball sockets. you can just pop them off with your hand or a screwdriver. now you are going to swing the back edge of the conv top 'up' towards the front of the car. if you're on the driver's side of the car, imagine that the back of the conv top is at 3 o'clock. you're going to move it so that the back edge is at 12 o'clock. (you'll want to do this on a warm day or you'll risk cracking the plastic rear window like i did.) this whole procedure is also covered in your owner's manual.

after that, you'll need to remove the rear shelf (the storage compartment behind the seats) out from the back (mine has fasteners that you just need to turn 90 degrees to remove). then remove the carpet piece on top of the engine. now you're at the engine cover. turn the fasteners 180 degrees (or until they unfasten! :D ) and pull the metal cover off (be careful you don't scratch your car!)

ta da, you're at the engine. you can change the air filter if you want, but i'd wait for your oil change (or not - it's up to you.) other than that, there's nothing else to do here. oil and plugs and everything else are done from under the car. sorry...

as for your ignition switch, it sounds kinda strange that they didn't have the part, and then they had the part. did all this happen over 15 minutes, or did they have enough time to actually GET an ignition switch from a dealer, etc? unfortunately, there's really no way to tell if the ignition switch is new - unless you know the part number of the original switch and the part was updated with a new part number which is printed on the switch itself. it would be a lot of work to check this. i'd take their word for it. ;)

you haven't answered my question about the clutch pedal. you're sure it's all the way down and you hear a click when you press it, yes? sometimes i don't press mine all the way down and i'm like WTF, but then i press a little harder and vroom-vroom. that's why i'm asking. with you being new to the car, i can see how this could happen.

here are some pics of the Air/Oil Separator (A/OS or AOS). the picture labeled DSC4797.jpg is a very good pic taken from the passenger's side. on the left side of the photo, the (top of the) AOS is that round piece of plastic before the plastic piece with 3 'fingers' that says 'porsche' on it. notice also that there is a 'J-tube' that comes out of the AOS and connects to the throttle body. if you replace your AOS, you'll need this tube also.

http://renee.devetter.home.comcast.net/boxster/oilsep/

here are some other great boxster links that can help you with just about anything:

http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/mikespor...boxsterwebpages

http://www.986faq.com/

http://boxster.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page

also, check out http://www.ppbb.com if you haven't already. lots of helpful people there too.

and don't forget, the 'search forum' button is your friend. there's TONS of info here. B)

[flyboyshell]

Chris,

Thanks again for the information.

I worked on the Porsche today and something weird happened. I have to replace the door handle spring on the inside of the door since the current one broke somehow. Anyway, I kind of quick fixed it in the meantime. I got my radio code, disconnected my battery, worked on the car, reconnected the battery, entered my radio code and then once all was in place I started the car. Now, the weird thing is that my CEL is no longer of for some reason. Is this good? I am guessing it is going to be short lived since it originally came on for a reason. Maybe there was some dirt on the MAF? Anyway, I am smiling for now. However, I am going to bet that it might come on again.

Well, thats all I have to share with you today. The only thing left is the starting, and yes I am pushing the clutch all the way in. I can even hear the switch once pressed.

Sheldon

[mikefocke]

The CEL will return.

You didn't do anything to fix the issues that were causing the CEL. So the CEL will return once the diagnostic unit has time to "program" itself since your battery disconnect and to learn what is normal and abnormal.

I admire your mechanical aptitude, but if you don't have a PS2 diagnostic tester, the repair manuals, other Porsche-specific tools used inn diagnosis and the experience in using them, question if you should take the car to someone who has the tools and experience.

Could you trivially clean the MAF using my directions? Sure and for only about $30 in tools and cleaners. But if that doesn't work, consider getting professional help (and that doesn't mean a dealer, and independent Porsche mechanic would do).

[Chris_in_NH]

Now, the weird thing is that my CEL is no longer of for some reason.

the CEL is off because you disconnected the battery. this effectively 'resets' the CEL. when the DME finds another fault, the CEL will light again.

thanks for answering the clutch question. now we (I) know that's not the cause. ;)

so the car just started up normally, or did you have to fool with it?

what happened with the door handle? how were you able to fix it?

i had a problem with my inside door handle too. there is a cable attached to the door handle and this cable is held in position inside the door (mine was actually zip-tied). when this cable is allowed to move, the door handle seems like it moves (pulls out) twice as much as it should normally. i just put the cable back where it was supposed to go, and eveything was fine. is that what happened to you?

[insite]

Ok, concerning the starting. When I put the key in and turn it to the on position. All lights come on. However, when I turn the key to start the engine nothing happens. I turn it to the left all the way and attempt it again, sometimes several times and sometimes for a couple of minutes (not good if you stall the car). I find that when I turn the key to actually start the car I jiggle it a little, turn it back to off, then back to start and don't turn the key ALL the way to start position, I just barely turn it enough to start the engine and it starts. This happens when it the engine is cold or hot, so it makes no difference. I cannot imagine why it would be the starter, but who knows. It seems that I have the same symptoms as other members on this site.

the ignition switch interfaces with multiple systems; some of them are controlled when the switch is turned. others are activated when the key is fully inserted into the ignition. there is a small button in the ignition switch that is pressed when the key is inserted. likely what has happened is that the people who replaced the switch didn't fully tighten the fastening screws. this allows the switch assembly to slide backward away from the key; this prevents the little button from being pressed.

to confirm this is the case:

1. when the key is in the ignition, the car is off, and the driver's door is open, does the warning ding (telling you the key's in the ignition) come on?

2. when the car is off and the key is in the ACC position, can you turn on the radio?

if neither of these things happen, the switch needs to be slid forward into its correct position and the screws need to be tightened properly. the people who installed the switch should cover this, as it's their mistake.

[Chris_in_NH]

there is a small button in the ignition switch that is pressed when the key is inserted. likely what has happened is that the people who replaced the switch didn't fully tighten the fastening screws.

i was thinking the same thing, but couldn't think of a way to troubleshoot it without actually climbing under the dash and looking. ;)

fastening screws aside, it could also be that the 'button' is not correctly 'mated' to the ignition tumbler. i've seen this happen many times.

Edited October 18, 2006 by Chris_in_NH

[insite]

it could also be that the 'button' is not correctly 'mated' to the ignition tumbler. i've seen this happen many times.

true; since he had the switch installed and it worked fine for awhile, though, i'm guessing the switch unit just backed away from the tumbler/lock.

[flyboyshell]

Thanks for the response, Chris and Insite.

Chris, my interior door handle would kind of just hang causing the window drop and the interior door panel lights to come on. I did some researching on this site and found that the causes could be the tension spring. Anyway, I disassemble to door and found that in fact it was the tension spring that had broke. What I did was a temporary fix for now. Basically, I just used a plier to bend the end so it would just hold onto the handle pulling it tight enough to pull it firmly. Seems to be working for now. No more annoying lights from coming on or window opening when I go over a bump.

Tomorrow I am going to look at the ignition swith and see if I need to adjust it so that it works again. I noticed I put my hand under the dash and on the rear of the ignition and just wiggled the switch a little and now it seems to be a little better. It still takes a few turns, but if I wiggle it just right I manage to start the car. I will give it a good look at tomorrow.

[flyboyshell]

By the way, any ideas how long it will take for the CEL to come back on? I have done 35 miles so far and still no light.

[Chris_in_NH]

By the way, any ideas how long it will take for the CEL to come back on? I have done 35 miles so far and still no light.

hehe... you never know. when the DME notices the fault a few times it will light the CEL again.

it's possible that your cleaning of the MAF solved the problem. but i doubt it. ;)

[flyboyshell]

LOL! And so the SAGA continues! OK 106 miles downline my infamous CEL comes back on. So I go to Autozone and get it checked. This time I was expecting the exact same codes HP1128 and P1130

BUT

I got HP0430 - TWC conversion, bank 2

WHAT NOW??????? Is this car going to bankrupt me? I just got the freaking thing!!

:censored:

CHRIS?? ANYBODY?

[Chris_in_NH]

LOL! And so the SAGA continues! OK 106 miles downline my infamous CEL comes back on. So I go to Autozone and get it checked. This time I was expecting the exact same codes HP1128 and P1130

BUT

I got HP0430 - TWC conversion, bank 2

WHAT NOW??????? Is this car going to bankrupt me? I just got the freaking thing!!

:censored:

CHRIS?? ANYBODY?

sounds like you need a new O2 sensor for Bank 2 (driver's side). but i would do some more research and maybe get the car checked out by a Porsche mechanic before you go spending a lot of money. the O2 sensor should only set you back about $100, so that's not too bad. but if you still get codes after replacing the O2 sensor, i would take it to a shop. this may have been the reason for your 1128/1130 codes to begin with.

[Loren]

Are you sure P0430 is the only code? Many times there is another code that indicates a bad O2 sensor (as Chris_in_NH said).

P0430 says you need a new cat. Please double check that you don't have any other codes.

[flyboyshell]

No other codes. Only the P0430 so far. I just got it rechecked.

Why is there no more P1128 and P1130 but now all of sudden a P0430

I am beginning to doubt the integrity of the OBC.

A very confused,

Sheldon

[Chris_in_NH]

No other codes. Only the P0430 so far. I just got it rechecked.

Why is there no more P1128 and P1130 but now all of sudden a P0430

I am beginning to doubt the integrity of the OBC.

A very confused,

Sheldon

sheldon, even I must take my car to the dealer sometimes. i don't *like* to do it, but sometimes 'ya gotta do what ya gotta do'. pay the $100, get their *recommendations* and post them here. you don't have to have the work done that very moment.

the warranty on cats is 8 years. so you may even get a new one for free!

we'll make sure they don't take you for a ride. :)

[flyboyshell]

No other codes. Only the P0430 so far. I just got it rechecked.

Why is there no more P1128 and P1130 but now all of sudden a P0430

I am beginning to doubt the integrity of the OBC.

A very confused,

Sheldon

sheldon, even I must take my car to the dealer sometimes. i don't *like* to do it, but sometimes 'ya gotta do what ya gotta do'. pay the $100, get their *recommendations* and post them here. you don't have to have the work done that very moment.

the warranty on cats is 8 years. so you may even get a new one for free!

we'll make sure they don't take you for a ride. :)

I called the Porsche dealer and it seems as if my emissions part are under warranty, so if I do need a new Cat I might get away without paying anything.

NOW! A new problem:

Here is the problem. The new ignition does not work. I put it in, but the key does not turn at all. In fact, it does not even make the clicking sounds as if it is pushed all the way in.

The old one I took out seems different to the new one. The new one does not even turn the same way as the old one. So it seems the alignment is out or something. I need help.

Do you have any suggestions?

Sheldon

[Chris_in_NH]

I called the Porsche dealer and it seems as if my emissions part are under warranty, so if I do need a new Cat I might get away without paying anything.

NOW! A new problem:

Here is the problem. The new ignition does not work. I put it in, but the key does not turn at all. In fact, it does not even make the clicking sounds as if it is pushed all the way in.

The old one I took out seems different to the new one. The new one does not even turn the same way as the old one. So it seems the alignment is out or something. I need help.

Do you have any suggestions?

Sheldon

ok, when you say 'new ignition' is this the new ignition switch that you had installed? i thought you were able to start the car here and there?

if it is a 'new new ignition' what is the part number? how are you installing it? are you contorting yourself under the dash so you can actually SEE what you're installing, the position of the switch, proper mating of the switch and the tumbler?

the old one will seem different because the part has probably been upgraded/updated/superceded a number of times over the years. what you need to find out is the exact part number for the ignition switch for your model year. i would call Suncoast Porsche, talk with Ric Knab, he will know exactly what you need. www.suncoastporsche.com

[Loren]

P0430 TWC Conversion, Bank 2 - Above Limit

Possible fault cause

- Oxygen sensor ahead of and after TWC exchanged

- Valve lift fault

- Aged oxygen sensor after TWC

- TWC faulty

[juniinc]

It sounds like ,,,it is the starter! Most likely your solenoid is going out so, it works whenever it wants to.

I'd check on your starter first before doing anything else.

No other codes. Only the P0430 so far. I just got it rechecked.

Why is there no more P1128 and P1130 but now all of sudden a P0430

I am beginning to doubt the integrity of the OBC.

A very confused,

Sheldon

[jlow]

Sheldon,

Before you go at the starter, try this.

The clutch interlock switch maybe be bad. My symptom with the start/no start was like yours. You can test this switch by finding it by the clutch pedal arm under the dash and remove the two wires connected and shorting them out by connecting them together. If the switch is bad, your car will start. Just be warned that the car will start without depressing the clutch pedal all the way down to the floor. If it is the switch, you can decide if you want to replace it. Mine was bad, I choose not to replace it and just keep the two wire connectors shorted to by-pass the interlock feature.

I hope this helps.

Edited October 18, 2007 by jlow