power window issue...

[rsfeller]

Today I about ripped the rubber off the top of the window becuase the window didn't do the "drop" the few millimeters it usually does when the door is opened to clear the upper channel.

• It closes properly (moves up into the channel) when the door is closed
  
• When you pull the inside or outside handle you can hear the motor try to move the window just a fraction but the window pulses with no movement
  
• The window goes up and down as expected with use of the switch
  
• There is no binding other then the rubber felt folding over at times (as I've complained about of late).Which appears to have no affect on this failure.
  

Who can point me to some past threads or knowledge on this.

When I got my car I really thought that was a unique "geewhiz" item that was bound to fail, guess I was right!

[PTEC]

Very common issue.... window regulator will need to be replaced.

[rsfeller]

Very common issue.... window regulator will need to be replaced.

Is the regulator the black housing attached to the motor? If so I read a post where I guy said the black bushing has the round holes that attach to the large gear round out.

Does this sound like the condition? If so I have found several motor/regulator assemblies used and cheap.

[insite]

Very common issue.... window regulator will need to be replaced.

Is the regulator the black housing attached to the motor? If so I read a post where I guy said the black bushing has the round holes that attach to the large gear round out.

Does this sound like the condition? If so I have found several motor/regulator assemblies used and cheap.

the regulator is definitely the problem. the regulator itself is comprised of the black housing attached to the motor AND the rails / cable that move the glass up and down. it's not too tough to change. read your other post (i just replied to it) and follow the adjustment instructions i posted after you install the new regulator. FYI, you can get a used regulator from german auto dismantlers for around $85.

[rsfeller]

thanks for the comments...

I am going to take the regulator gearing apart tonight as discussed in the other post, my issues sound 100% like his...but then again this was not a gradual wear either. It worked fine one day and not the next. You can feel that motor jump but it's as if it skips a tooth or as the other guy said the bushing has oval holes.

I'm be really suprised how the adjustments could cause this issue. Nothing is binding, looks straight and it goes up as expected, just doesn't drop. I'd hate to start playing with the pitch/yaw/left/right adjustments if everything looks good in that situation.

[insite]

thanks for the comments...

I am going to take the regulator gearing apart tonight as discussed in the other post, my issues sound 100% like his...but then again this was not a gradual wear either. It worked fine one day and not the next. You can feel that motor jump but it's as if it skips a tooth or as the other guy said the bushing has oval holes.

I'm be really suprised how the adjustments could cause this issue. Nothing is binding, looks straight and it goes up as expected, just doesn't drop. I'd hate to start playing with the pitch/yaw/left/right adjustments if everything looks good in that situation.

just replace the regulator. as for the adjustments, they need to be performed when installing a new regulator. the adjustments were also in response to a binding issue some had with the window glass against the window seal.

[rsfeller]

thanks for the comments...

I am going to take the regulator gearing apart tonight as discussed in the other post, my issues sound 100% like his...but then again this was not a gradual wear either. It worked fine one day and not the next. You can feel that motor jump but it's as if it skips a tooth or as the other guy said the bushing has oval holes.

I'm be really suprised how the adjustments could cause this issue. Nothing is binding, looks straight and it goes up as expected, just doesn't drop. I'd hate to start playing with the pitch/yaw/left/right adjustments if everything looks good in that situation.

just replace the regulator. as for the adjustments, they need to be performed when installing a new regulator. the adjustments were also in response to a binding issue some had with the window glass against the window seal.

EEK!

So I'm going to have adjust those controls to both remove and reinstall the black box?

[insite]

EEK!

So I'm going to have adjust those controls to both remove and reinstall the black box?

more or less. the black box that connects to the window motor is PART of the regulator. it houses the cables that raise and lower the glass. it is permanently connected to the cables and the cable tracks, so to replace the window regulator, you must remove all of it: glass, cable tracks, regulator gear box, and motor. upon installation of the new regulator, you need to adjust it per my earlier post. also of note: if you buy a new regulator, there is a green plastic piece screwed to the bottom of the FRONT cable track. it's important to leave this attached for the boxster (it's removed for the 996). if you buy a used regulator, make sure you transplant the green plastic stop from your old regulator to the new one. if you don't do this, your window will roll down too far in the door and it will rattle around.

BTW, this really isn't that difficult of a job. it seems really complicated, but it's not so bad.

[rsfeller]

I've done my share of window work on Saabs so I"m not to nervious, but the adjustments for the open drop as I read in Bentley looked like a pain to get it right.

As I look at the part to replace in Catalog it appears the entire housing is replaced as you state including motor and the black box. I also know that the cables are often permently attached to the blackbox as you mention.

Often getting these cables in the black box is a horrible job. Is there a simple system to this for the Porsche? Or will I be crying as I try to get the exsisting cables attached to the new black box?

It hought this was straight forward but now that I read you posts I'm rather confused!

[rsfeller]

Maybe my confusion is from use of terms.

Many on here keep using the term regulator which I always thoguht was the black box. When someone says they removed the regulator (such as the guy who took out the defective bushing) does he in fact mean he took out the tracks, cables AND the black box (motor assembly) with the attached motor?

Or did he simply remove the motor assembly (regulator?) and leave the cables/tracks & glass still in the door? I've seen in done both ways on different cars.

[Chris_in_NH]

EEK!

So I'm going to have adjust those controls to both remove and reinstall the black box?

i swapped my window regulator and didn't have to make any adjustments at all. on the bottom of the door where you remove the bolts that hold the cable rails in place, there should be the 'ghost image' of the where the bolt/nut was previously located. you can also trace around the bolt with a removable ink pen/grease pencil/crayon or whatever will work, before you remove them so you can put them back in the same place when you install the new regulator.

also, you may want to trace around the window clamps at the bottom of the window so that it is also lined up with its previous position when you put it back in the clamps.

FYI, if you hear 'motor noises' your window motor is probably OK, and you just need the 'regulator' which is actually just the rails and cable spool system. i got mine from Sunset Imports for $150 brand new. i wouldn't take a chance with a used assembly as the cables rust, and you just may be living on borrowed time until they finally snap. buy a new one and be worry-free. ;)

[insite]

Maybe my confusion is from use of terms.

Many on here keep using the term regulator which I always thoguht was the black box. When someone says they removed the regulator (such as the guy who took out the defective bushing) does he in fact mean he took out the tracks, cables AND the black box (motor assembly) with the attached motor?

Or did he simply remove the motor assembly (regulator?) and leave the cables/tracks & glass still in the door? I've seen in done both ways on different cars.

ok, let's clear up the terms. the 'black box' that's attached to the window motor is the transmission assembly for the regulator. the 'window regulator' as it would be sold to you includes the transmission, cables, tracks and glass clamps. it's a sealed assembly, so you don't have to hook up the cables to the transmission or tracks. the only part of the entire system that is separate from the 'regulator' is the motor. you will remove your motor from the old regulator and install it on the new regulator (it's only 3 bolts). you will then install it all back into the car.

chris is correct about adjustment from the stock position rarely being necessary. usually, you can just position the new regulator exactly as the old one without need for adjustment BUT... since part of this thread was started by someone having issues with the glass rubbing / folding the window seal on their car, i thought it pertinent to outline the adjustment process.

[rsfeller]

EEK!

So I'm going to have adjust those controls to both remove and reinstall the black box?

i swapped my window regulator and didn't have to make any adjustments at all. on the bottom of the door where you remove the bolts that hold the cable rails in place, there should be the 'ghost image' of the where the bolt/nut was previously located. you can also trace around the bolt with a removable ink pen/grease pencil/crayon or whatever will work, before you remove them so you can put them back in the same place when you install the new regulator.

also, you may want to trace around the window clamps at the bottom of the window so that it is also lined up with its previous position when you put it back in the clamps.

FYI, if you hear 'motor noises' your window motor is probably OK, and you just need the 'regulator' which is actually just the rails and cable spool system. i got mine from Sunset Imports for $150 brand new. i wouldn't take a chance with a used assembly as the cables rust, and you just may be living on borrowed time until they finally snap. buy a new one and be worry-free. ;)

I did ask for quote from Sunset today. Can you clarifiy from me what you got as I so confused on what everyone is calling a regulator!

From the Porsche Catalog the show the following: http://carboncow.net/php/gallery/view_phot...986_USA_KATALOG

I am under the assumption that part #2 which is the motor and regulator assembly is what I need and they are sold together, you cannot get the motor seperate even if you wante too!

YOu speak of getting the regulator assembly and rails, while in the Parts Catalog the rails and cables are clearly part #1.

What in fact did you order and get for $150?

Thanks.

Shawn

[insite]

I did ask for quote from Sunset today. Can you clarifiy from me what you got as I so confused on what everyone is calling a regulator!

I am under the assumption that part #2 which is the motor and regulator assembly is what I need and they are sold together, you cannot get the motor seperate even if you wante too!

part # 2 is the motor (which you do not need). part # 1 is the regulator. the regulator is usually $150 to $200 depending on where you buy it. you can get a used one from german auto dismantlers for around $85. there is a green plastic piece on your old regulator that is kind of near the left hand #3 in the link you sent. you will need to be sure to move it to the new regulator (if it's not already attached) when it arrives. it sets the window drop height to the boxster rather than 996 setting.

[rsfeller]

OK I get it, the catalog is just misleading...they should have seperated the motor from the black box if they are giving it a unique number.

If you guys swear the regulator tranmission housing (black box) comes with the rails and cables, then that is what I'll get! Another state $150 from Sunset

Thanks.

[insite]

OK I get it, the catalog is just misleading...they should have seperated the motor from the black box if they are giving it a unique number.

If you guys swear the regulator tranmission housing (black box) comes with the rails and cables, then that is what I'll get! Another state $150 from Sunset

Thanks.

they are separate; not sure how you're looking at the pic. see attached image.

[rsfeller]

OK I must be an idiot then as now I'm back to confused. The catalog shows the same image you have posted.

The part you have circled as the motor is infact the motor and regulator tranmission (black box) assembly combined, the motor is simply the silver part on the end. Inside that tranmission assembly is what I have been lead to believe is the problem as stated in this post:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry53931

The oval-ized bushing holes ARE IN the black box, correct?

If you are stating that I need the window regulator (cables and rails) then what is the failure trend that causes my issue of the window not going down a 1/2 inch when the door is open?

If porsche simply seperated the "black box" from the silver motor I think this would be less confusing for me!

[insite]

OK I must be an idiot then as now I'm back to confused. The catalog shows the same image you have posted.

The part you have circled as the motor is infact the motor and regulator tranmission (black box) assembly combined, the motor is simply the silver part on the end. Inside that tranmission assembly is what I have been lead to believe is the problem as stated in this post:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry53931

The oval-ized bushing holes ARE IN the black box, correct?

If you are stating that I need the window regulator (cables and rails) then what is the failure trend that causes my issue of the window not going down a 1/2 inch when the door is open?

If porsche simply seperated the "black box" from the silver motor I think this would be less confusing for me!

you are very confusing indeed! don't worry about bushings or holes. what happens is that the cable for the regulator frays and binds in its protective sleeve. when the motor tries to roll the window down 1/2", it basically just unwinds some slack (from the defective cable) and the glass doesn't move. this is a very common problem. your motor assembly is fine.

[rsfeller]

you are very confusing indeed! don't worry about bushings or holes. what happens is that the cable for the regulator frays and binds in its protective sleeve. when the motor tries to roll the window down 1/2", it basically just unwinds some slack (from the defective cable) and the glass doesn't move. this is a very common problem. your motor assembly is fine.

ahhh now I can see the light...clairty has come!

So I wasn't really wasn't that confused. I was looking to the black box for my problem/solution from that other post I referenced. Nobody really explained to me what the failure trend was with the cable so I figured the bushing was the problem to solve.

Will it be obvious to see frayed or damaged cable?

I"m going to pull this all apart after dinner for a look before ordering the part.

Shawn

[insite]

ahhh now I can see the light...clairty has come!

So I wasn't really wasn't that confused. I was looking to the black box for my problem/solution from that other post I referenced. Nobody really explained to me what the failure trend was with the cable so I figured the bushing was the problem to solve.

Will it be obvious to see frayed or damaged cable?

I"m going to pull this all apart after dinner for a look before ordering the part.

you will probably be able to see the frayed part of the cable, buy maybe not. if you can see it, it will be at one of the areas where the cable enters its protective sleeve. good luck!

[seventythree]

ahhh now I can see the light...clairty has come!

So I wasn't really wasn't that confused. I was looking to the black box for my problem/solution from that other post I referenced. Nobody really explained to me what the failure trend was with the cable so I figured the bushing was the problem to solve.

Will it be obvious to see frayed or damaged cable?

I"m going to pull this all apart after dinner for a look before ordering the part.

you will probably be able to see the frayed part of the cable, buy maybe not. if you can see it, it will be at one of the areas where the cable enters its protective sleeve. good luck!

I don't mean to hi-jack this thread, but I have a question for insite.

I recently bought a mint 02 Boxster with 20KM. It is absolutely in as new condition with very little use. However, ever since I got it, I have noticed a snapping sound in the passenger side window when it reached either limit. If I don't actuate the window for some time, anything longer that an hour, then it makes the sound when it reaches the top or bottom limit. Then it won't make the sound upon further cycling until it remain idle for some time again.

Can you think of what might be the cause of this? Should I get in there and investigate?

Thanks

[Chris_in_NH]

Will it be obvious to see frayed or damaged cable?

i think it might be obvious. ;)

[insite]

Can you think of what might be the cause of this? Should I get in there and investigate?

hard to say. personally, unless it sounds really bad, i'd just leave it alone. since it only seems to happen the first time you roll the window up or down, the glass probably just binds slightly in the felt guide and the sound it the glass breaking loose. i don't think it's a big deal (especialy with your low mileage).

[insite]

i think it might be obvious. ;)

good god! never seen one that bad, chris!

[rsfeller]

Wow Chris!

Didn't get mine apart last night to check, but will this weekend.

Did the symptom of the window "not dropping" come all at once with no warning (my did) or did it go down less each day until it stopped?