Replacing Convertible-Top Covering

[herc_captain]

I'm stuck... I have a 2000 Boxster S with a rear window full of cracks. I bought a very high quality replacement, but can't get the rear sides attached properly.

Is there a trick to getting the clamping rail out of the main bow? I've removed the plastic plugs from the inside, but the outside seems to be covered by a black metal-looking cover. I tried to gently remove this cover, but no luck so far. I don't want to break anything as my nearest dealer is 7 hrs away... Am I missing something? Is there a trick to getting the clamping rail out?

Also, once it is out and the new top installed on it, is there a trick to getting it back in as I'm certain the new top will not easily stretch far enough to line up the holes...

TIA.

Edited September 24, 2006 by herc_captain

[Chris_in_NH]

these are the instructions that i found a while ago... i might have even found them here. i can't remember. i will be receiving my replacement aftermarket conv top fabric this week, so i am very interested in what you're doing. i'll send you a PM as well...

here's what i gots:

Remove all three rear windscreens for easier access to back area.

Lower the top to about 75% open to better expose the tensioning cable screws, whch are attached on each side to the top frame. Remove the screws (1 each side/T25 CAREFUL-it's a long way to the bottom of the fender well!)

Close the top until it's mostly closed, with 12-18" gap between leading header edge and windshield.

Remove header gasket retaining strip from leading edge of top (6/T20)

From each edge, remove the door gaskets (pull out of retaining track), to expose the remaining header gasket screws (4 each side/T10 AND 1 each side on the leading edge/T20)

This will expose 4 sheet metal screws on each side, that attach a tension plate to each side. This tension plate has the top, the frame and the tensioning cable attached to it (4 each side/phillips. CAREFUL- the rear-most sheetmetal screw is covered by a rubber gasket)

From inside the car, remove the rubber gasket/shim that is holding the bottom weather curtain in place and detach.

At the trailing edge of the top (outside), remove the weather-stripping gasket that is wedged in to place.

From the leading edge, start "peeling back" the top. The top is fastened with double-edged adhesive to the leading edge (there's actually a leather-like strip that is seated in a channel with this adhesive). You'll find the tension plates attached in the same fashion.

Once you get the top flipped back to the leading middle stay, you'll be able to unattach the tensioning cable from each tension plates (which may or may not be still stuck to the top fabric.) The leading middle stay is a plastic strip which snaps out of place. The top is fastened to it via a tongue and groove-like tab. Slide the piece off the tab.

Remove two plastic snap-ins (one on each side) that hold the guide straps to the middle stay (the main vertical member of the top) On the trailing stay, remove the two screws on each side that hold the guy straps to the stay/frame (2 each side/T20[?]) The sides are held in place with the same type of tabs in step #11- the vertical ones are mounted on a pivoting fixture, and the horizontal one is held in place with a small rubber shim that must be pulled out of the groove (note: for re-assembly, my new top did not require the use of these). You may or may not have to switch tasks 14/15/16/17, depending on the tautness of the top.

Remove the rear (outside) gasket that holds the trailing edge to the rear stay (the "hoop").

Peel back the trailing edge (more tape!), to expose the trailing tab that is held in place by tongue and groove, and gasket/shim.

From inside, remove the two screws on each side that hold the hoop to the frame assembly.

Unattach the ball and socket power arms attached on each side of the hoop. You should now be able to remove the hoop.

At this point, the top is still attached to the trailing middle stay by a tongue and groove-type tab. Slide the top off to remove. This needs to be the last task to remove the top from the frame, and the first for reassembly.

To re-assemble, reverse process.

Install notes:

I guess you can get this automotive double-side adhesive from a body shop/supply store. I was lucky that I work for one of the world's largest makers of sticky paper (Avery Dennison), and got a couple samples from the lab guys.

If you examine the tension plates, they have grooves that the tension cable slips through. My top (from TopsOnline) didn't have matching slots in the fabric to accommodate the pass-through. Once you're at that assembly stage, and have everything lined up, you need to cut a tab on each side (I let my steady-handed friend do the honors), to let the cable pass through.

The top will be extremely(!) taut. It took both of us to close the top the last 4 inches. I suggest leaving it closed and exposed to some sun (and rain?) for at least a week.

I hope this helps.

I needed to wait 'til a sunny day (mid-50's F), to make the top nice and pliable. We could have done this in about 3 hours, without the extra crap, and a little instruction.

[herc_captain]

Thanks for your response Chris,

I also had these instructions, and they are pretty good, but the author's top didn't require attaching the sides to the clamping rails on either side of the main bow. Mine does, as per the original, and looks loose in that area because I wasn't able to get the clamping rails off as per the service manual. I'm worried that this might be a problem at high speeds so I want to get it installed as properly as I can.

To repeat my question to this esteemed and learned forum - Is there a trick to getting the clamping rail out of the main bow? I've removed the plastic plugs from the inside, but the outside seems to be covered by a black metal-looking cover. I tried to gently remove this cover, but no luck so far. I don't want to break anything as my nearest dealer is 7 hrs away... Am I missing something? Is there a trick to getting the clamping rail out?

Also, once it is out and the new top installed on it, is there a trick to getting it back in as I'm certain the new top will not easily stretch far enough to line up the holes...

Anybody know? Chris may also soon need the info...

TIA,

herc_captain

Edited September 27, 2006 by herc_captain

[herc_captain]

Hmmm.

A week has passed and still no answer to my problem. I've either gone into new territory or everyone's out golfing!

Would either of the forum leads mind taking a stab at this? Please?

Maybe I just need to clarify my question?

Maybe someone knows of a place that does lots of Boxster S top replacements and could give me an email or phone contact there?

Had our first frost this week. Hoping to get this top properly on before the snow flies as I have to store the car somewhere inaccessible over the winter.

TIA,

herc_captain

[herc_captain]

Tool Pants, vfxbox,

Care to tackle my question? Haven't had an answer from any of the forum members, and I really need some help...

[Tom C]

I just ordered a new top for my 2002 Boxster S. I have a copy of Chris' in NH step by step process, (Thanks to Chris and Fred Adler!)

My problem is there are no instructions that I see for removal of the headliner. I also have a copy of the Porsche step by step tome which seems pretty much useless.

Does any one out there have instructions or know where I can get instructions for removing the headliner? I'm a Newbie, a Porshe owner for less than a month, but I can tell you, I'll be a Porsche owner for the rest of my life! A truely great car.

[FrayAdjacent986]

Herc,

Most likely, not a lot of people (here or otherwise) have actually replaced our tops ourselves, so we have not encountered what you're having an issue with.

I think your best bet may be to take it to an upholstry shop, and see if they can clean it up. I plan on getting a Robbins top, and having the local Robbins authorized installer on standby. I might even pay 'em a little to check it out after I install to make sure everything is adjusted correctly.

Or I'll decide it's too much and just have them install it outright.

Anyway, you're doing something not many have actually done, so not many of us will have an answer for your situation.

[rsfeller]

TomC can you tell us who and what top you got? I'm doing mine this week with and ebay vendor in Cali and want some reviews from others!

[Lloyd Six]

TomC can you tell us who and what top you got? I'm doing mine this week with and ebay vendor in Cali and want some reviews from others!

Just had mine delivered today from these people:

http://www.car-hood.co.uk/content.php?nID=2

It is 100% as the genuine Porsche even on the headlining, I went for the glass convertion.

Fitting the weekend, may do step by step photos.

Lloyd Six

[Chris_in_NH]

Fitting the weekend, may do step by step photos.

Lloyd Six

here are step-by-step photos/DIY. if you could take pictures that aren't included in the DIY that would be great.

Top Canvas DIY

[Tom C]

TomC can you tell us who and what top you got? I'm doing mine this week with and ebay vendor in Cali and want some reviews from others!

Just had mine delivered today from these people:

http://www.car-hood.co.uk/content.php?nID=2

It is 100% as the genuine Porsche even on the headlining, I went for the glass convertion.

Fitting the weekend, may do step by step photos.

Lloyd Six

Lloyd Six, I purchased my top from M&T Manufacturing, 30 Hopkins Lane, S. Kingstown, RI 02897, 401-789-0472

I've been very happy with my top. I had a pro install it and the fit and quality is just as good as the original. I just got out of the boat world, selling my 34 foot sail boat, so I am accustomed to doing things stem to stern, keel to top mast myself. In fact I just replaced my left front AC condenser that took a u-bolt from the highway. However I decided not to fit my top, it's more of an art than mechanical. I compare it to a suit. You can go out and buy material, follow the pattern and sew a suit, but would you wear it in public? I consider the $400 I paid well worth it. Good luck and I hope you prove me wrong! :)