Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

2000 Boxster 2.7L

85k Mi.

I cleaned out all of my intake parts, changed oil separator, MAF was recently changed. After reassembling everything I started the car and revved the engine up to redline while it was cold.

I got a steady drip of water out of the tailpipe, drips of water coming out of the joint where the catalytic converter connects to the rest of the exhaust. Steam coming out of the driver side catalytic converter. I am now thinking that this is not an oil issue, but a water issue. There is no noticeable drip or steam below 4.5k rpm or so.

I am pretty sure that when the car reaches operating temperature, these drips turn into the massive amounts of steam I have been witnessing.

How can this be repaired? Common causes? I am thinking head gasket.

Edited by vvortex3
Posted

I agree with Chris.

Why would you think of revving a cold motor to the redline. That will eventually shorten the life of the engine severely.

Posted

ok so I'm going to pull the motor. Where can I find a boxster 2.7 block for a good price? Or if that's not available how can I avoid paying 6k for another motor? I see on ebay they list them at 4k but they dont sell at that so I'd think i could get it for less.

Posted

Is this actually coolant thats coming out the exhaust pipe or just condensation that collects in the exhaust system as a process of combustion? Sounds like you may be jumping the gun here.

Posted
Is this actually coolant thats coming out the exhaust pipe or just condensation that collects in the exhaust system as a process of combustion? Sounds like you may be jumping the gun here.

Well when the car reaches operating temperature, and I do the same thing, I get enough white smoke to fill an intersection. But below 4.5k rpm I can drive the car...freeway even with no smoke.

What if i just change the block? Which year block is less prone to issues like this, and compatible with the rest of my motor?

Posted

VVortex3, I think you should just keep redlining the car, especially when cold, and it will clear-up and self correct itself in no time! :)

Posted

Are you losing much coolant during the hard drive at 4.5K+ when you see clouds of white smoke/vapour? Does it require a serious top-up after that?

Does the cooling system get excessively pressurised during that drive?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Are you losing much coolant during the hard drive at 4.5K+ when you see clouds of white smoke/vapour? Does it require a serious top-up after that?

Does the cooling system get excessively pressurised during that drive?

How would I check?

Posted

Do you have to do a significant top-up of the coolant after a good hard drive when white smoke/steam/vapour is visible in rear view mirror?

If the answer is yes then you are losing coolant either through a blown head gasket or maybe a cylinder liner.

You can also do a simple test bu getting a friend to bring the revs up to your magical 4.5K level while you observe the coolant header tank in the rear trunk, and see doesw it begin to overflow of bubble up violently.

The more scientific method is to get hold of a pressure test kit, which consists of a hand operated pump and pressure guage, which is screwed onto the top of the header tank/reservoir. You pressurize the system to the prescribed lbs per foot and see does it fall off dramatically.

Do you have any droplets of water in the oil, which would appear on the dip-stick?

Posted
Do you have any droplets of water in the oil, which would appear on the dip-stick?

Long long ago, in an auto far far from my mind, I vaguely remember a blown head gasket. Water in the oil appeared as dirty "mayonaise" (cream colored and thick goo) on the inside of the oil filler cap and on the upper reaches of the dip stick.

You may or may not know that mayonaise is an emulsion of water and oil (egg yolk).

Posted (edited)

Do you have any droplets of water in the oil, which would appear on the dip-stick?

Long long ago, in an auto far far from my mind, I vaguely remember a blown head gasket. Water in the oil appeared as dirty "mayonaise" (cream colored and thick goo) on the inside of the oil filler cap and on the upper reaches of the dip stick.

You may or may not know that mayonaise is an emulsion of water and oil (egg yolk).

The oil looks normal, the water is not overflowing or bubbling up violently if I remove the water cap. I warmed the car up to operating temperature. I drove it pretty hard for about 5 minutes...no smoke at all, stopped...waited 5-10 minutes, drove it again but kept a sustained higher rev. Nothing...stopped, floored it...Big puff of white looking smoke in the rearview, I heard a small knocking sound twice...just a puff, not constant. Then the car continued to release lesser amounts of smoke the remainder of the way back to my garage. Stopped the car, waited 3 minutes or so...started it again, big puff of thick white smoke out of the tail pipe which eventually burned out and then the car ran fine. No bubbles in the water, oil still looks normal. I am stumped. Also note that this is definately oil smoke, not water smoke. I keep thinking it is one or the other but it smells nothing like water smoke.

Edited by vvortex3
Posted (edited)

Since there is no loss of coolant, and no surge in the header tank with the cap off, I suspect that it's not coolant, but oil related.

To be very sure of this get to the exhaust outlet, while a friend revs to the magical 4.5K ( but only do this when the car if fully warmed up).

Determine if the cloud coming from the exhaust is water vapour of or oil. Your hand will tell you if is vapour, and you nose will tell you if it is oil burning as smoke.

If it is smoke all is not necessarily lost just yet!

Is the car possibly overfull of oil ? It does happen, and will manifest itself as smoke burn-off while driving hard.

If it was seriously overfilled it could have created a few problems by finding it's way into a few areas where it shouldn't be.

It could also be a dodgy oil seperator.

It could also be a malfuntion in the breather system for the crankcase, which is allowing the air intake/induction to the inlet manifold(s) to suck up oil from the crankcase at higher revs.

A visit to your nearest tech, be he (or she) (have to be careful not to offend) official or indy, would be recommended, and there might even be a firendly guru close by, (or not so close by), to whom a visit would be well worthwhile.

There's only so much one can suggest from a different continent, over the internet, while a 'look see' might come up with something very evident.

In the meantime don't go pulling out motors just yet.

Edited by Donie
  • 4 months later...
Posted

This turned out to be that the shop that changed my oil separator were complete retards. I started a Beureau of Automotive Repair complaint against them... Had it done again by "European Sports Car Garage" in sacramento. They did a good job, smoke gone!

Posted
Since there is no loss of coolant, and no surge in the header tank with the cap off, I suspect that it's not coolant, but oil related.

To be very sure of this get to the exhaust outlet, while a friend revs to the magical 4.5K ( but only do this when the car if fully warmed up).

Determine if the cloud coming from the exhaust is water vapour of or oil. Your hand will tell you if is vapour, and you nose will tell you if it is oil burning as smoke.

If it is smoke all is not necessarily lost just yet!

Is the car possibly overfull of oil ? It does happen, and will manifest itself as smoke burn-off while driving hard.

If it was seriously overfilled it could have created a few problems by finding it's way into a few areas where it shouldn't be.

It could also be a dodgy oil seperator.

It could also be a malfuntion in the breather system for the crankcase, which is allowing the air intake/induction to the inlet manifold(s) to suck up oil from the crankcase at higher revs.

A visit to your nearest tech, be he (or she) (have to be careful not to offend) official or indy, would be recommended, and there might even be a firendly guru close by, (or not so close by), to whom a visit would be well worthwhile.

There's only so much one can suggest from a different continent, over the internet, while a 'look see' might come up with something very evident.

In the meantime don't go pulling out motors just yet.

Hi

How can Idiagnosticate the malfunction in the crankcase breather system ?

Posted

vvortex3,

I'm glad to hear you solved your problem, but if you keep reving the engine to redline while cold, you will need a new motor. It's got over 80k miles on it; be wise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.