window rubber and felt

[rsfeller]

the drivers window almost stalls going down as the rubber on the outside of the window that keeps the water tight seal doubles over and wedges between the window door.

Best I can tell is the felt on the inside has come off not allowing for a smooth mate between the rubber and window.

Can anyone comment or support this idea?

Anyone replace this rubber and how involved is it?

[akpud]

I have exactly the same problem - and no solution yet!

So far I've tried spraying Gummi (dd nothing) and rubbing "Black" from Meguires into it (did nothing).

Still waiting.............

Check out my earlier post - http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry51305

Good luck!

AK

Edited September 8, 2006 by akpud

[rsfeller]

I have exactly the same problem - and no solution yet!

So far I've tried spraying Gummi (dd nothing) and rubbing "Black" from Meguires into it (did nothing).

Still waiting.............

Check out my earlier post - http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...amp;#entry51305

Good luck!

AK

Thanks for your comments, I did see that post and was not happy with the "gummi" solution. I'm pretty darn sure from inspecting the rubber strip underside and then looking more toward the mirror and the pass. side that the felt is missing or thin from about 1/2 way toward the back where it grabs first. This is not allowing for a smooth connection between the two materials. We even tried "bending" the rubber back but it's true to form and returns 100% to normal tension

We tried rain-x on the window and a light silicon on the rubber (yes I know silicon and rubber are not good friends) and this didn't even remotely help. I do like the talcum idea but doubt it would hold very long.

Today was a cooler day ouside and the window was stopped in it's track which is not good for the motor. Goes back up like a champ. I'm quite sure I'll have to replace the rubber but am curious how difficult it is to get it apart!

[akpud]

I'll be very interested to see if you come up with a solution - good luck - and please post it if you do!

AK

[Topless]

Haven't had this problem on my Boxter yet. My daughter was driving a 96 VW Passat for a while with the same problem. Apparantly German rubber gets pretty stiff over time and tends to jam the windows going up and down. We had to replace all 4 window motors at about $400 ea. Ouch! I wonder what it would take to replace all the door rubber??

[Q-Ship986]

. . . . . . ...and a light silicon on the rubber (yes I know silicon and rubber are not good friends) ....

Petroleum-based lubricants applied to most rubbers are the primary thing to avoid. Silicones mixed with petroleum distillates would likely be an issue, too. Pure silicone, depending on the type of silicone, doesn't necessarily damage a given rubber, depending on the type of rubber.

An excellent automotive rubber lubricant--i.e. for seals, o-rings, and the like--is one based on DuPont Krytox.

--Brian

Edited September 9, 2006 by Q-Ship986

[CarreraLicious]

What worked for me was applying some Plexus plastic polish to the window. Makes it slippery enough to not grab the rubber seal on the way down. Hope that helps.

[rsfeller]

What worked for me was applying some Plexus plastic polish to the window. Makes it slippery enough to not grab the rubber seal on the way down. Hope that helps.

I did use rain-x which didn't seem to do much, is this plastic polish simular or a differnt animal?

we did try the talcum powder and it seems to be helping but again I'm sure my first rain will ruin that idea!

[CarreraLicious]

Don't know the formulation of Rain-X, but the Plexus, which I use regularly for my rear window seems to work quite well. I havn't had the problem for weeks now since applying the plexus.

[akpud]

Just a note - I purchased a tube of pure silicone and applied it to the moulding a few days ago. So far it's worked perfectly. I'll update in a week or so to see if it holds. The only caveat is the weather - it is cooler now up here in Toronto and this may have something to do with it - but the fact is that this is the only solution that has worked (even moderately) so far.

[rsfeller]

Just a note - I purchased a tube of pure silicone and applied it to the moulding a few days ago. So far it's worked perfectly. I'll update in a week or so to see if it holds. The only caveat is the weather - it is cooler now up here in Toronto and this may have something to do with it - but the fact is that this is the only solution that has worked (even moderately) so far.

Silicon was a no go for me, but talc did work in hot weather. now that it has been 40 degrees in the morning it goes away due to the stiffness of the rubber. by the afternoon when its 70F it flapsright back over!

my issue isthe felt on the under belly is gone and thus it cannot do it's job properly. i'm safe on the talc until it rains again...

[akpud]

Thanks. Bottom line is I'll probably have to replace the rubber strip - but the silicone seems to be working fine for now. Today it's raining - so I'll see how it holds up.

Anyone know what the approx cost is to replace that rubber strip on the window?

AK

[01boxster]

i cant imagine change the rubber/felt on the doors would be any more hassloe then trying all these products..(not know if they will work or not)....but i don't know...the rubber might be a ***** to get off..i look at this thread cuz i have the salt stains in my INNER side...and was looking to see if it was replacable..i beleive i saw rubber weather strips for windows on pelican...correct me if i m wrong......

hope that helps.

my .02 cetns

[01boxster]

here it is..

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._BDYsel_pg1.htm

[rsfeller]

here it is..

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._BDYsel_pg1.htm

One of these is the door rubber seal on the outside?

[01boxster]

here it is..

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._BDYsel_pg1.htm

One of these is the door rubber seal on the outside?

i think so as that is the only description they have......too bad they dont have the picture...

but i cant think of anything else that called that....

good luck!

[akpud]

Just an update - the silicone has worked flawlessly so far (rain or shine). The rubber has not folded over once since the silicone was applied a week ago.

AK

[rsfeller]

Just an update - the silicone has worked flawlessly so far (rain or shine). The rubber has not folded over once since the silicone was applied a week ago.

AK

Does you felt appear to be MIA from the rubber in some areas?

I've tried rain-x on the window and silicon on the rubber (as well as the talc) and once it rains and drys outside the rubber starts to grab again...

[akpud]

I'll take a closer look and let you know.

AK

[rsfeller]

I'll take a closer look and let you know.

AK

Thanks. On mind it's very visible when you pry back therubber that the felt is missing toward the rear of the window/door.

Interestingly my regulator for my window failed today. This is most likly caused by the stresss caused fromt he rubber buckling over. It appears to be a common issue with the rubber bushing on the gear driving wearing out due to stress. This then caused the quick drop function for the door opening to not allow the window to drop.

[Loren]

Interestingly my regulator for my window failed today. This is most likly caused by the stresss caused fromt he rubber buckling over.

I doubt it - they just fail after a number of years of use. They fail on 996 coupes too.

[rsfeller]

Interestingly my regulator for my window failed today. This is most likly caused by the stresss caused fromt he rubber buckling over.

I doubt it - they just fail after a number of years of use. They fail on 996 coupes too.

The info I've read on different board does show this to be a common failure item. I would definitely say the primary wear on that bushing is from excessive use of the window from the door opening/closing.

but...

The drag on my window is excessive from the folding and "grabbing" rubber scraper. It has even stopped my window completely from going down a couple of times. I figure that type of friction would cause those holes to elongate even quicker from the stress and friction.

It's a shame you cannot get just the $10 rubber bushing!

Does anyone know if the right and left bushing assemblies are interchangable? I seem ore pass. side window assemblies on ebay then drivers side. I'm sure the pass. side units are in good shape to do to lack of use. I would rather spend $75 on a used pass. regulator then a new drivers (or worn and used drivers!) side...

[insite]

....posted by accident; see next post.

Edited October 11, 2006 by insite

[insite]

the drivers window almost stalls going down as the rubber on the outside of the window that keeps the water tight seal doubles over and wedges between the window door.

no one has mentioned adjusting the window regulator yet. it is possible to adjust the regulator to change the pressure against the door seal. if you open the door, there are four rubber plugs underneath the door. the middle two cover the mounting points for the regulator halves. if the bolts are loosened, they are designed to slide in (toward the car) and out (away from the car).

to properly adjust them, slightly loosen the bolts and slide them in (toward the car) as far as they will go. tighten them. with the window up, close a sheet of paper in the door between the window and the window seal. try to pull the paper out. if it comes out, loosen the adjustment bolts, slide them out (away from the car) approximately 10mm and tighten. test w/ paper again. repeat this process until the paper doesn't slide out. replace cover plugs and you're done.

it's also possible that the window regulator allows the window to roll up too far. porsche specs the window glass to overlap the seal by 4mm (evenly) across the top seal. if the overlap is greater than 4mm or if the overlap is uneaven (for instance, 2mm overlap at the front and 6mm overlap at the rear), than it is necessary to adjust the regulator stops.

to do this, roll the window down (you can't reach the adjustment screws with the window up) and open the door. under the door, remove the outer two rubber plugs (next to the ones mentioned in the first paragraph). this will expose the closure height adjustment screws. turn the screws clockwise to lower the closure heigh or counterclockwise to raise the closure height. try two turns and close the window / door to check seal overlap. repeat adjustment process until the glass overlaps the seal about 4mm accross the top of the seal. you are done.

Edited October 11, 2006 by insite