Noticable hum from pass. airbag area...

[rsfeller]

While testing the car tonight with the my Durametric on my new (to me) 1997 986 I was amazed at the hum from the back of the pass. side air bag area. I turned the ACC fan off and had the car ignition set to on.

I'm used to fuel pumps not running all the time.

Could someone confirm this is the fuel pump or is this a fan that runs all the time with the ignition in the ON positon?

[Tool Pants]

There is a fan behind the grill for the inside air temp.

Are you dissecting that poor 1997....

[rsfeller]

There is a fan behind the grill for the inside air temp.

Are you dissecting that poor 1997....

Ha!

since I didn't notice it with the vehicle running I'm assuming the fan is operating as should be!

I get pretty crazy with my used toys at first and with the Durametric software I jumped right in head first. I was known as a "nut job" on my Vw Vanagon board with my questions the first two or three months. Then I started giving seminars on those buggers I was so involved! Most likly will do the same with this toy.

I tend to get paranoid at first especially when I start reading TSB about failing fuel pumps (calm down Shawn). I expect the worst and hope for the best so far I'm very happy with my lack of error codes. Standard concerns only so far:

Very worn tires and vibrations

SRS Belt Buckle concern (will try contact cleaner fix first)

Horn (of course it doesn't work it's a 4 spoke wheel!) fuse must be pulled

Odd alarm codes that most likly don't mean much

ACC heat doesn't get very hot (only warm) will post this concern soon

[rsfeller]

There is a fan behind the grill for the inside air temp.

Are you dissecting that poor 1997....

TP,

Why did you have this sensor out...are they prone to going bad? I'm really having trouble figuring our the AAC system. Even with the heat on HI I still get cool air from the center vents while the floor or deforst will produce warm air. Is this normal?

[Tool Pants]

I did not take the sensor out, just the grill. It was a long time ago and I think I did it to show the hidden screw behind the grill for when you want to remove the side vent.

With the heater on you should get warm air from all the vents. No clue what is going on in your car.

[rsfeller]

I did not take the sensor out, just the grill. It was a long time ago and I think I did it to show the hidden screw behind the grill for when you want to remove the side vent.

With the heater on you should get warm air from all the vents. No clue what is going on in your car.

****. Doesn't seem to be much failure on the board with the AAC system. I have foam coming out everywhere when the fan is on high. Some members have suggested pulling the cabin filter and that I should be able to grab a good portion of the offending foam from that direction.

Do you know where the heater core is in the system (still haven't got my bentley) as I'm wondering if the foam has severly comprimised the heater core. posibly foam prior to the core.

Loren, do you know if the Duremetric (or porsche tester) shows AAC faults? The Duremetric has a grouping called Air Conditioning but since their support is very limited I'm curious if that is strictly with the AC Compressor or the entire AAC (as I have no faults).

Lastly what is idea operating temp on the gauge? I am running about 190F which seems fine. Usually a low heat feel is a bad thermostat (stuck open) on traditional cars but usually the temp gauge is low to support that theory.

Comments?

Edited September 7, 2006 by rsfeller

[Loren]

Loren, do you know if the Duremetric (or porsche tester) shows AAC faults? The Duremetric has a grouping called Air Conditioning but since their support is very limited I'm curious if that is strictly with the AC Compressor or the entire AAC (as I have no faults).

Yes, it will just show faults (at this time). It will not show any actuals or run any tests.

Lastly what is idea operating temp on the gauge? I am running about 190F which seems fine. Usually a low heat feel is a bad thermostat (stuck open) on traditional cars but usually the temp gauge is low to support that theory.

180-190 is normal. It is advisable to clean the leaves and other debris from inside the front bumper openings at least once a year. The front bumper comes off pretty easy (see my 3rd radiator DIY in the 996 DIY mods section). With the front bumper off you can really clean both the AC condensers and the engine radiators.

[rsfeller]

Loren, do you know if the Duremetric (or porsche tester) shows AAC faults? The Duremetric has a grouping called Air Conditioning but since their support is very limited I'm curious if that is strictly with the AC Compressor or the entire AAC (as I have no faults).

Yes, it will just show faults (at this time). It will not show any actuals or run any tests.

Lastly what is idea operating temp on the gauge? I am running about 190F which seems fine. Usually a low heat feel is a bad thermostat (stuck open) on traditional cars but usually the temp gauge is low to support that theory.

180-190 is normal. It is advisable to clean the leaves and other debris from inside the front bumper openings at least once a year. The front bumper comes off pretty easy (see my 3rd radiator DIY in the 996 DIY mods section). With the front bumper off you can really clean both the AC condensers and the engine radiators.

I have no faults with the Durametric so I understanding this based on your comment that the AAC control is fine?

Do you have any suggestions of what to consider for my lack of AAC heat?

[Loren]

There are many other tests you can do with a Porsche PST2 or PIWIS tester.

For example: actual values readouts to test flap operation sensors, switches, etc., etc.

Try to find an independent shop that has one of these testers - it will make short work of diagnosing your problem.

[rsfeller]

There are many other tests you can do with a Porsche PST2 or PIWIS tester.

For example: actual values readouts to test flap operation sensors, switches, etc., etc.

Try to find an independent shop that has one of these testers - it will make short work of diagnosing your problem.

Thanks. If they get that specific with flap operation that is what I hoping for...as it could be the drive that turns the valve for the water flow. Had them go bad before on other cars with automatic climate control. Since this car spent it's entire life in Miami it may have seized shut from lack of movement!

Out of curiousity is there a recommended list of "indie" shops anywhere on your list here? Place where the members talk good/bad (review) them? I have yet to find a Porsche indie in Columbus Ohio that anyone knows personally and since I'm an hour away I don't want to make a bad choice!

[Loren]

Yes. it could be a bad heater control valve but I think it could also be a bad sensor (thinking it is already hot enough). With these testers you can actually test each (independent) part of the system for proper function.

Try your local PCA for a list of local independent shops.