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Recommended Posts

Posted

I am referring to the pair of cables that hold down the back part of the soft top while in the up position. These have sockets on each end that pop onto ball joints.

There is an article saying that if these cables aren't tensioned properly, a "loose change" sound can be heard from behind the drivers shoulder.

Is the "loose change" sound caused by this heard with the top up, down, or both? Just how tight should one set the tension? With the top up, I can fold the seat backs forward, reach through the roll hoops, and feel the tension in these cables. I currently have about 1/8" slack or play in the cables. Am I supposed to turn the adjustment screws (clockwise?) until all of the play is gone?

My problem is that I hear the loose change sound with the top in the up or down position. It kind of feels like it is coming from inside the driver's door, but I really don't want to be reinventing the wheel here. If the cables are supposed to be tight, I will try that first.

Thanks

PS, if this turns out not to be related to any adjustments, what are all the lubrications points?

  • Moderators
Posted

It has been a long time since I did this.

Turn the adjusting bolt to remove the play. I seem to remember that you turn it in the opposite direction you would think.

post-4-1156867409_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hi Tool pants,

can you post another picture showing where is this bolt? Is there only one or one per side (it looks like it)

Posted
There is an adjustment bolt for each cable. To get to it you need to put the top in the service position.

thank you

Posted

Wow i didnt know you could adjust that, so is there suppose to be virtually no slack? kinda like just enough reach to re-attach the cable after being taken out of service mode?

Posted

I'm curious to know what this bolt actually adjusts. I hear a (the) noise somewhere around my left shoulder (American-left hand drive). I hear the noise when I hit certain kinds of bumps. Often it sounds like it is in the door - maybe the plastic latch cable-housing rattling between the door and the interior panel?

I tighted the bolt indicated in the picture about 3/4 to one turn. It felt snug (the whole time I turned it), but that could be drag caused by friction in the threads. Maybe I didn't tighten it enough, but the sound is still there. If I know what was tightening exactly, or some way to tell if I've over-tightened it, I think I would have a better idea of what to do. If I tighten it too much (not so much to shear the head off) will something break? Will the top open or close differently? Should I be tightening each side equally? (I have so far.)

Posted
I hear a (the) noise somewhere around my left shoulder (American-left hand drive). I hear the noise when I hit certain kinds of bumps. Often it sounds like it is in the door - maybe the plastic latch cable-housing rattling between the door and the interior panel?

Badcow-

I also had a very annoying clicking / ticking / loose change noise when the top was up or down. It sounded like it was coming from about ear level. I finally found there was a piece of clear tape missing on a small cable guide. I covered the guide up with a piece of 3/4 x 1 inch of clear packing tape and the noise went away for good! Here's how to check yours:

Open the top almost fully so that there is about 12" between the edge of the top and body of the car. Look into the cavity where the top goes, about 6 inches from the end of the door. You will see a red cap on part of the top mechanism. Now look a few inches further to the rear and you will see a cable that terminates on a connector with a star washer and torex screw. Note that the cable is bare for about an inch and then is covered with a black insulator. Right where the bare cable ends you will see a 1" wide thin metal plate that acts as a guide/clamp for the cable. Check to see if there is a piece of clear plastic tape on this. If not, just cover it with a piece of tape and you're in business. It solved my problem and while you're at it, I'd check the other side too.

Another problem could be change stuck in your center console. Ever put any in the ash tray? If so, pop the cover off your shifter and look around in there - especially right on the sides as there are metal plates there. I bought my Boxster used and got $1.83 rebate on it after I fished all the loose change out of the console. You'd be surprised to find out where the sound appears to come from and where it really is coming from. The change sound I could have sworn was coming from the dash on the passenger side...

Hope this helps and feel free to pm me if not and I'll take a pics.

Posted

Hillarious, I thought I was the only one. I got a $23.00 rebate that I found when I was replacing my Prake Brake Switch. :beer:

We have $1 & $2 coins in Canada.

That telescopic magnet paid for itself that day!

Posted
Hillarious, I thought I was the only one. I got a $23.00 rebate that I found when I was replacing my Prake Brake Switch. :beer:

We have $1 & $2 coins in Canada.

That telescopic magnet paid for itself that day!

So basically the same rebate... $23 CND = $1.83 US right? Just kidding.

Posted

Badcow-

Per the PM, here are pictures from driver's side of vehichle w/ top opened all but about 12". The torx screw, cable and metal piece are almost dead even w/ the slide tab for the clamshell.

post-9673-1163772211_thumb.jpg

Close up of red circle. You can see the clear packing tape I put on LY is starting to show signs of where. At least next time, I'll know right away where to look and replace. Your existing piece of clear tape is probably just flapping away right there.

post-9673-1163772312_thumb.jpg

Take a look and let me know if this solves your problem

Posted

OK. No luck here. After fixing the tape on one side (as indicated in the pictures) we went on a short drive around town, top down, still had the noise.

Since it was a cool day, we had the windows up. I mentioned the noise to my S.O. and she said she heard it on her side, too. Just for kicks, I held the window tight against the windshield pillar. The noise stopped. S.O. did the same thing on her side. The noise stopped there, too.

So. What does this mean? Is there something loose in the door or is this just the glass rattleing in the guides?

Hmmmm...

Posted

Badcow-

Not sure if you've solved your problem yet or not, but apparently there is an adjustement you can make to the in/out of the window w/in the frame. I just picked this up on another board and thought it might help you.

"Underneath the door, there is a plug. Remove it and there is a set-screw in there that loosens the window in-out. You only get a few centimeters of play. "

I think I saw something here similar but was posted as part of a message regarding a window regulator.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...l=rivet++window

Scroll about 1/4 down for a post from Mitty on 8/31/04. Thought this might help.

  • 8 years later...
Posted (edited)

Do the tension cables serve any purpose when the top is open and folded?  I ask because when open I seem to have slack in the exposed portion of the cloth top once the clam shell is closed tight.  In the past, the exposed portion of the cloth top, when open, has been nice and taught.....not not so.

 

Any thoughts????

Edited by Rob175

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