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Recommended Posts

Posted

hey there you guys,

this is my first post so please dont bash me down to hard :D

i own a 2002 986 S with 88k on it...

i read a lot of threads on codes and how to get them ( i did go to autozone and read my self the codes from an OB II)...thanks great info there!

i got

P1128

and

P1130 which i have read here means that im running lean (not good)

but i also got a

P0507

that said idle control system RPM high

in fact since the light came on the car has been running at 11oo at idle instead of usual 900...

i have read about the white smoke thing when turning on engine (its normal some extra oil) but my car has never done it untill i cancelled the codes at autozone and fired up the engine...

any relation between the two? should i be worried?

and is there anything i coud do on my own to fix the P1128/30 and P0507?

thanks in advance

luca :D

  • Admin
Posted

P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

P0507 Idle Air Control at Stop – Above Limit

P1128 & P1130 potential causes:

– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

– Intake air system leaking

– Fuel pressure too low

– Volume supply of fuel pump too low

– Fuel injectors fouled

– Exhaust system leaking

P0507 potential causes:

– Throttle valve is sticking

– Leaks in intake air system

Sounds like air leaks, dirty throttle valve and/or bad MAF.

Posted

...hmmm

thanks Loren!

the car ran great untill the light came on. There after the car idled high.

Which one of these problems could cause a sudden modification of the idle?...or is it that the computer just reacts to the signal in that way?

i think the second sounds more like it because when i cancelled the codes, the car idled fine BUT now every time i turn it on it smokes like hell...never didi it before...

any ideas?

thanks again :thumbup:

luca

ps: the device that i hooked up to the car gave a Po507 and saied "idle control system rpm high"

is "idle air controll at stop-above limit" the same thing?

P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 1 – Above Limit

P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 – Above Limit

P0507 Idle Air Control at Stop – Above Limit

P1128 & P1130 potential causes:

– Incorrect signal from MAF sensor

– Intake air system leaking

– Fuel pressure too low

– Volume supply of fuel pump too low

– Fuel injectors fouled

– Exhaust system leaking

P0507 potential causes:

– Throttle valve is sticking

– Leaks in intake air system

Sounds like air leaks, dirty throttle valve and/or bad MAF.

  • Admin
Posted
Sounds like air leaks, dirty throttle valve and/or bad MAF.

If any parts of the intake have been removed or modified start looking there. Look for loose or disconnected hoses etc.

Buy a spray can of carburetor/fuel injector cleaner and clean the throttle body (do a search here as this has been covered many time).

Buy some electrical contact cleaner and then remove and clean your MAF and re-install it. This has also been covered here many times - so do a search for the topic and it will give you information on the special tool for the MAF and the cleaning process.

Posted

...i de-snorkeled the car 1 month ago...

thanks, i will do the research and ty to do it my self...will let you know (maybe take pictures)

PS: is this something i could screw up really bad?...im not really tech savy so...if its something i could easily screw up pretty bad , id rather have someone with some professional knowledge do it for me... :D

Sounds like air leaks, dirty throttle valve and/or bad MAF.

If any parts of the intake have been removed or modified start looking there. Look for loose or disconnected hoses etc.

Buy a spray can of carburetor/fuel injector cleaner and clean the throttle body (do a search here as this has been covered many time).

Buy some electrical contact cleaner and then remove and clean your MAF and re-install it. This has also been covered here many times - so do a search for the topic and it will give you information on the special tool for the MAF and the cleaning process.

Posted
BUT now every time i turn it on it smokes like hell...never did it before...

'smokes like hell' sounds like a bad air/oil separator to me. i'm guessing that there is a hole in the air/oil separator bellows which is causing the 1128/1130 vacuum leak, and that the A/OS is bad causing the smoke. when you say 'smokes like hell' do you mean a continuous cloud of smoke that engulfs your neighborhood?

you want to be very careful if the air/oil separator is bad. your engine could ingest enough oil that permanent and catastrophic damage could occur. i wouldn't start the car again until you rule out the A/OS. have it flatbedded to your shop of choice.

the air/oil separator is a cheap part (about $90) but it's tough to get to, so labor will be expensive (maybe $400-500).

Posted
Well, you could break something I suppose.

Where are you located? Sometimes folks in your area are willing to help.

...i live in malibu. Any one in the area feels like lending a hand?...i have plenty 'o beer in me fridge :cheers:

Chris,

car is not smokeing any more. It did EVERY time i turned on the engine for about 2 days. Cloud was pretty big but it would last just about the time for me to buckel up, turn a/c off, turn radio, lights and radar on...

the parking structure got pretty "foggy" for a minute or so...no continuous cloud of smoke that engulfs my neighborhood...

Posted
Chris,

car is not smokeing any more. It did EVERY time i turned on the engine for about 2 days. Cloud was pretty big but it would last just about the time for me to buckel up, turn a/c off, turn radio, lights and radar on...

the parking structure got pretty "foggy" for a minute or so...no continuous cloud of smoke that engulfs my neighborhood...

well that's good to hear. but if you're noticing smoke when before there was no smoke, i would keep an eye on it. it could be the beginning of a failed A/OS. better to 'nip it in the bud' than wait. you can easily diagnose a bad A/OS by taking a look inside your throttle body (pretty easy to do except for one very-hard-to-get-to bolt). if there is more than a misting of oil in there, chances are the A/OS is on its way out.

even if the A/OS is not bad, you could still have a hole in the A/OS bellows, which is fairly common. and if you're going to replace the bellows, you'd need to remove the A/OS anyway, so you might as well replace the A/OS while you're in there.

like i said, keep an eye on the smoke and take a look inside the throttle body if you want to be sure.

good luck!

Posted

...thanks chris

ill keep an eye on it and try to check iin the TB when i open the "hood " to attempt a FAM cleaning...

i found an old thread on FAM DIY for C2 where Loren posted a scheme...i am trying to re-post the attachment but when i click "attach file" botton, the "add reply"one goes grey and cant post...tryed preview but notting hapenes...

anyway, is the cheme pretty much the same? is a 20 torks all i will need to pull the FAM out?

Posted
...thanks chris

ill keep an eye on it and try to check iin the TB when i open the "hood " to attempt a FAM cleaning...

i found an old thread on FAM DIY for C2 where Loren posted a scheme...i am trying to re-post the attachment but when i click "attach file" botton, the "add reply"one goes grey and cant post...tryed preview but notting hapenes...

anyway, is the cheme pretty much the same? is a 20 torks all i will need to pull the FAM out?

i'm guessing you mean MAF... Mass Air Flow meter. :)

you'll need a T-20 'security' Torx bit to remove the MAF. the security Torx bit will have an indentation (hole) in the middle of the bit that matches up with a 'nub' on the actual screw.

i'm pretty sure you can get security Torx (also called Star-pattern) bits at Sears, Home Depot, etc.

you're better off getting a set of the security Torx bits as they can be used with security Torx and regular Torx screws too.

Posted

I cannot swear this is true for Porsche, but MOST engine controllers automatically enter limp-home-mode while lamp is illuminated. This means no dynamic control of engine until fault is corrected.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

....ok so for a followup...

after extensive code downloading/reading and "try this, ride 52miles then try this, ride for 52 miles"...(which was done just to make sure i didnt have to spend the money on things i didnt relly need)...it all came down to:

new oxygen sensors (all 4)

new FAM

new oil separator

service done by OTTO in Venice (good man)

care runs great now (it better :D ) but im a little light in the wallet... :(

Posted (edited)
....ok so for a followup...

after extensive code downloading/reading and "try this, ride 52miles then try this, ride for 52 miles"...(which was done just to make sure i didnt have to spend the money on things i didnt relly need)...it all came down to:

new oxygen sensors (all 4)

new FAM

new oil separator

service done by OTTO in Venice (good man)

care runs great now (it better :D ) but im a little light in the wallet... :(

well, i'm glad to hear that your car is running better.

but i've NEVER heard of 4 O2 sensors needing to be replaced at the same time. did you clean the MAF to see if that worked, and check the throttle body for oil? i'm almost positive that 2 of these 3 procedures weren't necessary (although it *is* possible, but unlikely). plus your car is not even that old, although you do have some mileage.

but the good news is that all of these parts were replaced and should last a good long time. :)

Edited by Chris_in_NH
Posted (edited)

car has 90k now... :drive:

no, i didnt try to clean the FAM by my self...didnt want to mess around in a field i was not comfortable in...

and yes, as you said, now i have a bunch of new parts that should last a good loooong time....

ps: had belt and tension barings(?) changed too...dont think there is much more to be changed now :D

Edited by lucazuma

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