Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently purchased a 2001 carrera C2 with only 9000 miles. After about 2 weeks I started having intermittent problems with not being able to start the engine. Because it would start fine after a second or third try, I thought that I didn't step on the clutch far enough. However, last week it would not start after multiple tries. Based on discussions here, I thought the clutch microswitch went bad. I tested the switch and found it OK. I then replaced the ignition switch, still no response. I called a Porsche dealer who thought that the immobilizer need to be re-initialized (because I took the batter ground off to replace the ignition switch). However, after hitting the door lock key on the fob multiple times, it still did not work. I tried to see if an electrical attachement in the engine was loose, but everything looked great. I kept trying for several days to get the car to start, but to no avail. Finally, it did start again and I drove it to the Porsche dealer. They spent many hours trying to find the problem, and finally claimed that the problem was that the immobizer was only intermittently recognizer the clutch microswitch as closed. Therefore, they are now replacing the immobilizer at a cost of $350 and another $400 in labor (plus taxes). This car is nearly as expensive to maintain as an airplane!!

Cary Mariash

Posted
I called a Porsche dealer who thought that the immobilizer need to be re-initialized (because I took the batter ground off to replace the ignition switch). However, after hitting the door lock key on the fob multiple times, it still did not work.

Just to be clear, there is no relationship (electrical or otherwise) between the immobilizer chip in your key head and the remote control locking device in your key head. In fact, valet keys have the immobilizer (necessary to start the car) but not the remote locking xmitter (for doors and security system).

So, when your dealer stated that the immobilzer "might need to be reinitialized", he meant that the car might need to be hooked up to the PST2 device and digitally mated once again to the immobilizer chip in your key head .... as is done with a new key head. Locking and unlocking the car with the remote would have no connection to that.

Posted

I called a Porsche dealer who thought that the immobilizer need to be re-initialized (because I took the batter ground off to replace the ignition switch). However, after hitting the door lock key on the fob multiple times, it still did not work.

Just to be clear, there is no relationship (electrical or otherwise) between the immobilizer chip in your key head and the remote control locking device in your key head. In fact, valet keys have the immobilizer (necessary to start the car) but not the remote locking xmitter (for doors and security system).

So, when your dealer stated that the immobilzer "might need to be reinitialized", he meant that the car might need to be hooked up to the PST2 device and digitally mated once again to the immobilizer chip in your key head .... as is done with a new key head. Locking and unlocking the car with the remote would have no connection to that.

Kim, thank you for the explaination. This is all new to me. The dealer did say that locking and unlocking the door will allow the car to recognize the key so that I can start the car. I may have misinterpreted what he was telling me. Nevertheless, this didn't help and the replacement of the anti-theft device in the car has repaired the problem (so far!!).

Cary

Posted
Kim, thank you for the explaination. This is all new to me. The dealer did say that locking and unlocking the door will allow the car to recognize the key so that I can start the car. I may have misinterpreted what he was telling me. Nevertheless, this didn't help and the replacement of the anti-theft device in the car has repaired the problem (so far!!).

He was confused, or you misunderstood him.

When the car has sat untouched for 5 days, the remote locking system turns itself off to conserve the battery. If you return to the car after such a period, the remote button on the key will not unlock your car. Using the key in the door lock will reset the remote locking system and allow the key button to, once again, operate the locks. That is the only thing I can imagine that he meant with regard to allowing "allow the car to recognize the key ....". I don't believe this function has anything to do with the key being able to start the car.

Sounds like your transponder receiver ..... the device in the car that recognizes the signal of a mated transponder in a key head and enables the start ..... was failing intermittently.

  • 13 years later...
Posted

I have a 2001 911, the immobilizer got wet and corroded part of the board. The cars starts and runs, the windows won't go up or down and front and rear  hood lack will not activate. Can someone direct me how to bypass the immobilizer with the windows and the hoods still working .

thanks 

Posted (edited)

Sorry...not possible to bypass.  The immobilizer is integral to both the ECU and ignition circuits.  Simply put, the car will not work/start without the immobilizer.  If it is not working properly, then you need to check with ECU Doctors.  For the front trunk, there is an emergency release cable under the passenger headlight.  Hopefully you have already done the smart thing and relocated the emergency release cable from underneath the passenger headlight to just inside the front tow hook plug on the front bumper.  If not then you have to remove the passenger wheel and wheel liner to locate the release cable to open the trunk.

 

Just to add...you need to determine HOW your immobilizer got wet.  Have you checked all your drains and cleared them of debris?

 

In the end, if the immobilizer is so corroded it does not work, then you are stuck buying a new one from Porsche and having it programmed to your car and keys.  Think $$$$

Edited by DBJoe996

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.