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Showing results for tags 'brake'.
Found 8 results
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I am posting this hoping it will benefit someone. I have a 2003 996 c2 cab. Recently the brake lights went out. After screwing with the brake pedal switch, I discovered that it needed to be replaced. Manually depressing switch with my finger showed that this was an intermittent problem. The interesting part of this is that I found that when the switch went out, neither the hazard flashers nor the cruise control would work. After replacing the switch, all these problems resolved. The switch is in a hard to reach location {of course}. While I could visualize the switch by lying on my back in the driver's side footwell, I had no room to manipulate. After a couple of hours of frustration and cursing, I found that I could manipulate and change the switch by sitting in the driver's seat and blindly removing and replacing the switch. -
hello , i want to replace the brake pads on front and rear of my Cayenne 958 diesel 6/2012 Whit the black calipers , i have already order the parts , but i have some questions , The front calipers bolted whit to big bolts part number WHT 004 571 they told me to renew them to , but how tight do a have to fastened these bolts in newton . also the rear main caliper bolts needs to be replaced part number N 911 837 01 how tight must these ? but i cant find out how to chance those rear pads , the car have also electronic parking brakes but someone tels me that the car needs on the diagnose computer to chanche the rear pads (aka VW ) , but i find this strange , i tested wit a piece of paper between pad and disc and activate the parking brake result the paper was not holding tight between pad and disc and feld down. because of this i think there are internal brake shoes inside the disc is this correct ? any technical help whil be helpful thanks in advance . or any exploded view .pdf part numbers : front pads 958 351 939 , warn contact 958 612 356 00 , caliper clips 970 351 959 00 Bolt front caliper WHT 004 571 , Rear Pads 958 352 939 00 , bolt N 911 837 01 , caliper clips 7PP 615 269 , warn contact 958 612 365 50 see pictures
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Hey guys....I have a clicking coming from the left rear at low speed. I can hear it best when idling to a stop. It does seem speed dependent as it is faster at faster speeds. It seems to go away under acceleration, but I cannot be sure as my exhaust is pretty loud. I jacked the car up and spun the rear wheels, but cannot hear the noise. There is some thumping from the transaxle, but not the same clicking. I checked the heat shield to make sure it was not hitting the rotor. I have taken the wheels off, and spun without the wheels and cannot hear it. I have taken the rear calipers off and removed the rotors to check the emergency brake. There is not a rub or anything obvious that I can see that is hitting or rubbing. I have even removed the center caps and that is not it. I cannot hear it when the weight is off the car. I can hear it when I push the car in neutral. The best way to describe the noise is that is sounds like an old fashioned speedometer cable that is about to break. The car drives fine and everything else seems ok. There is no noticeable noise at highway speeds. Any help or advice would be appreciated!
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When driving i do not hear the sound but when I am slowing down and about to brake I hear a small whine that sounds like a power steering pump in others cars but it is in the front. I have no idea what it is. I has been raining like crazy here but I do not know if that has anything to do with it. -
I plan on using the Motive to bleed my brakes this weekend and after searching the forum and maintenance manuals I cannot find an exact value to torque the bleeder valve. I have seen reference to 7.5 lbs-ft and 9 lbs-ft. I assume this is an ok range (staying on the low side, assuimng no leaks). I am a little sensitive to this since I had a 1 year service done at a dealer a while back and the left front outer bleed valve came back with a slightly rounded head, as if the tech over-tightened it and the wrench slipped off. Any comments about the torque range or the exact value if you know it? Thanks. -
Loren, All, Can you provide any guidance for 2008 Turbo - I have PCCB but want to swap them out with Steel rotors (and matching pads) for front and rears. I am going to be tracking the Turbo, so dont want to damage the rotors. Thanks for your help!
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What can this issue be? - Firm brake pedal with engine off. - Soft brake pedal giving way all the way to the floor slooooowly with engine on. - No visible fluid leakage and reservoir level stays same even if I continue pumping the brake over and over. I have tried bleeding the brakes with Motive Power bleeder to see if that helped but no. Is it the Brake booster or something else?
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OK, I hope this does not result in someone calling me an idiot, but here is what I did: I just flushed my brake system in preparation for a DE, which I have done many times before. The old fluid was in good shape, and so it was nearly impossible to tell when the new fluid started. This time, using a pressure bleeder, I pushed most of the old fluid out of the reservoir before I started dumping new fluid into the thing so as to minimize the mixing. I may have actually pushed some air into the lines - I'm not sure - but I was not too concerned about that because I figured that the air bubbles, if present, would give me an indication of when I was getting to the new fluid. I then flushed two full 500 liter bottles of Motul RBF 600 through the system starting with the RR outside screw, then RR inside screw, then LR, then RF, then LF. There were some very small bubbles present, but I never did see any significant air bubbles come out of the system before I ran out of new fluid. I took the car for a drive, and I immediately noticed that the brake pedal travel was longer than it had previously been. Pumping the pedal did not make the pedal travel shorter. I would have expected the pedal to stiffen and the travel to get shorter if there was air in the system, but still, I was concerned that I had introduced air into the system, and that I had not gotten it all out. So I bought two more 500 liter bottles of Motul and I flushed most of that through the system, but I never did get any significant air bubbles to come out (there were a few micro bubbles). The brakes seem to work fine other than the longer pedal. I'm concerned that I may have introduced air into the system, and that the air may be somehow "stuck" in the ABS pump. I'm not sure if this can happen, especially since the ABS pump did not cycle at any time during the process. Have I screwed up my brake system? Thanks in advance. Mike
