White987S

Then do the entire hood.

Hopefully, you'll be able to get all 6 plugs out without any issues. The potential problem with 10 year old plugs is seizing. If you think your car is running great now, wait to you see how new plugs "feel". And it's a good time to inspect your coil packs. I would not worry about your power steering fluid (Pentosin) but I'd recommend you change your 75W90 gear oil with OEM fluid. Basically, you are "ZEROing" out your maintenance schedule with a used car. Great idea and work. Enjoy.

Jeff, buy your Porsche OEM parts from site sponsor Sunset Imports- 503-641-8600. Great prices and service. Smart move buying new sensors. Why do you think you need new rotors?

Don't do it. The offset on the rears will look aweful, among other issues. Member "fpb111" provided you with the right (best) response. Follow it.

Does the key fob do anything? Try locking the car manually with the key. Wait a couple minutes. Then unlock with the key. Within the first 30-60 seconds, put the key in the ignition. Turn to position 1 (not all the way to engage the starter). This may re-awake the alarm system.

Mobil 5W50 is a great oil. As for "scortched cylinders" as related to Mobil 0W40, Patrick Long and Jorg Bermeister both run M1 0W40 in their F.L. GT3 RSR. I hear their cylinders are doing fine. Even saw them run around Road America for +4 hours at +170 MPH back in August for the ALMS.

In your Tip tranny, only use OEM fluid.

If it hasn't failed alreaady, it will fail in the future. Just replace it.

Mine are toys. Not a mode of transportation. The 993 Turbo sees about 8,000 miles of sun & fun from March till late November. The Boxster gets about 7,000 (s)miles from May till mid October. I drive mine more than +90% of Porsche owners. In the winter months I have other hobbies. Plus, the break does us good. Each Spring I pull out 2 "new" Porsches every year. Bliss.

It's easy. You just time your maintenance in the early fall. The most time is spent on the interior and exterior detailing. All the other steps are just a few minutes of time.

Jeff, I disagree with you a little. I recently read about this from Brad Penn Oil (semi synthetic oil): Thanks for using our Brad Penn® oils. The ‘shelf life’ of a product such as motor oil is dependent upon a number of factors that make each situation unique. We can, however, offer some ‘general’ guidelines and comments. Storage conditions are the key to product preservation and quality. Unopened plastic quarts of motor oil stored indoors in a cool, dry environment (preferably not in direct contact with concrete or other moisture-porous materials – i.e. stored off the floor on shelves, on pallets, on blocks, etc.), free of excess heat and humidity and not subjected to wide ambient temperature fluctuations typically remain suitable for use during an average storage period of 3 years. Sitting idle for long periods of time without agitation (like sitting static on a shelf during storage) is one of the most stressing of situations for a motor oil. Also, it is a little known fact that the plastic bottles typically used for packaging motor oil (i.e. HDPE – High Density Polyethylene) are not totally impervious to moisture infiltration from the environment. Therefore when stored in areas of high humidity like damp basements or in non-climate controlled garages or sheds in areas of the country where ambient humidity is high during long periods of time, the product quality can be jeopardized. Opened and partial containers of product are more susceptible to contamination when stored under unfavorable conditions. Obviously the ideal situation is to purchase only as much product as will be used immediately, but as we all know this is not always practical. This is where the correct storage procedures come into play. One further note….when the stored product container(s) is opened you should take careful note of the color and consistency of the oil as it flows out. Motor oil should be clear and bright and of uniform consistency. Visual indication of possible moisture contamination and/or product separation are ‘streaks’ of different, darker colored material in the pour stream or lighter ‘cream colored’ streaks due to moisture. Thank you once again for your use of our fine line of Brad Penn® products. If you have any additional questions please call our Technical Service department at (814) 368-1200. As mentioned in the original post, the HDPE bottles that motor oil is packaged in ARE NOT totally impervious to moisture infiltration, even if the bottle is sealed. Exterior moisture from the atmosphere like high humidity in damp basements or climates where humidity is high a large number of days each year, the moisture can enter between the molecules of the plastic bottle and also through the non-hermetically sealed cap and liner. The longer the exposure to such conditions (i.e. the longer the oil is stored under these conditions) the more likely the moisture contamination will infiltrate the sealed bottle. The reason it was mentioned that the bottles shouldn’t be stored in direct contact with concrete but should ideally be stored off the floor on pallets, shelves, etc. is the fact that unless properly and completely sealed, concrete will allow moisture from the dirt base underneath to penetrate and come into direct contact with the porous plastic bottle……hence the concern. As an example, have you ever tried to store a cardboard box directly on an unsealed concrete floor for any length of time……what happens? Moisture from the concrete floor causes deterioration of the cardboard lattice structure, and sometimes even mold and mildew form on the cardboard. That was the reference to the concrete issue in the earlier post. Thanks for allowing the clarification.

Hey Hawkeye: 1) A dealer will charge you about $8 per quart of oil (8-9 quarts) plus at least 1 hour labor. Maybe even 2 hours. Figure about $125/hour from a dealership. Expect to pay about $285 for an oil change at a dealership on a 997. An indy shop will charge you about 1 hour labor ($100ish) and about $25 for the oil filter. Bring in you own oil, or use his if you like the selection. So, figure about $200 for an indy shop. 2) How old is your case of Mobil 0W40? Not a great idea to mix brands of oils. It's OK to mix same brands of different viscosity, but always best to select the viscosity you want. Old cases of oil WILL pick up moisture, even in closed, sealed, bottles. 3) Always change your oil filters. Use OEM filters. You can buy from places like Sunset in bulk if you start to do you own maintenance. 4) They should NOT charge you extra to install a new magnetic drain plug. In the future, change your oil yearly, regardless of the low mileage. Maybe consider sending an oil sample to Blackstone, and establish your UOA baseline. You are probably due for a brake fluid flush, too. This should be done every 2 years. FYI.

Super Sports should be considered too. Not cheap. But less than PS2's.

Here is (most) my Winter Hibernation check list: 1) All maintenance up-to-date 2) Fresh/recent oil change 3) Full concours detail, interior, exterior, wheels pulled 4) Fuel stabilized with Sta-Bil (run in a few miles) 5) Gas tank very-very full 6) Tires over filled with nitrogen (approx 58 PSI) 7) Park on a thick mil plastic painter's tarp (Home Depot) 8) Several pounds of desiccators in cabin, windows closed 9) Park out of gear, NO e-brake, chock wheels with small wood blocks 10) Plug in Porsche battery maintainer 11) Lock doors, put car keys in floor safe ( or safe deposit box) 12) Cover car with a high quality car cover (Porsche and Carnewal) 13) Call insurance company, and suspend most coverages (save $$$) 14) Hand roll car about 8-12" the first Saturday of each month 15) Last month of storage, do step #14 weekly 16) In the spring, bleed excess air 17) Prior to starting in the spring, manually turn over engine in 5th gear, or pull fuel pump fuse, and crank over 18) Make sure car is running fine, no noises, leaks, bug/animal infestation etc. 19) Go on a +300 mile drive, and buy fresh fuel

I've been storing my Porsches very successfuly for 7 years now. NEVER have I fogged the engine.

With regard to "incorrect information", are you a.k.a. "Boxterra"? Simple 'yes' or 'no' question. Please clarify. Thanks!

I'd recommend you look into the Yoko AD08's. Great tire. Best tire I've used (1997 993 Turbo) so far. I don't track it, but friends of mine track and autocross this tire on 993's and 944's.

Dakar, did you try Sunset Porsche for the crush washers? Call Phil Coy at 503-641-8600 or philcoy@sunsetimports.com. Great guy. And a site sponsor.

Oh yeah, make sure you loosen the "fill" plugs before you drain the gear oil. You don't want to be stranded with a fully drained tranny. Just a tip.

Sorry, Stefan, but I'm going with JFP's advice on this one.

Great plan. This will "zero out" your maintenance. Always a smart move on a newly aquired used Porsche. Make sure you use OEM coolant and distilled water. Yes, you need the crush washers for the gear oil change. I'd recommend you use Mobil Delvac 75W90. Buy 2 gallons. You'll use about 5 quarts. Good place to purchase is Lufteknic: http://www.lufteknic.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Mobil75-90delvac If you're really fanatical, like me, send you engine oil and gear lube out to Blackstone Labs, and start doing Used Oil Analysis. This first test will serve as your baseline.

Just a thought, are you sure your rear spoiler is deploying at speed (72 MPH-ish)? This could cause some high speed instability. A car with PASM is already 10mm lower than a non-PASM (USA spec) car.

Never been that fast on the track. My cars are rock solid. Be careful out there.

Couple things to check: 1) Clean out your front air intakes- may need to remove your bumper 2) Check the part number on your blue coolant cap. May want to purchase a new one. 3) Look for any coolant in your rear trunk. Look under the carpet. 4) Any noises with your water pump? May want to replace your water pump soon. And Serpt. Belt, thermostat, and do a coolant flush. Have you done any of this maintenance yet during your ownership?

Based on my Used Oil Analysis reports, I don't need a magnetic drain plug. I doubt you do either. Buy the L&N plug if you must have one. They are a great vendor to the Porsche community.