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krunkymonkey
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About krunkymonkey
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Awesome. Glad it worked out for you
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You don't have to solder the cable. Just put a jumper in the back side of pins 3 and 7 on the vehicle's connector. Make sure it has good contact. But I don't know if the vagcom can reset the transmission.
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Did you reset the transmission? If not do that first. If that doesn't help wait for the transgo
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This thread is not about which is better. It's about installing the transgo shift kit. It fixed all my shifting problems and I'm just posting my experience. So others researching it will have the info. Also there is a lot of "where applicable" in there. How do you know when they use it? And how do you flow test a solenoid? Fluid does not flow through it. It just pushes a valve.
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Did you take all the valves out also? Also I'm unsure if cleaning the outside of the valve will help any. The bushings in the solenoids get dirty and gum up which makes the solenoids stick until pressure over comes it. With the transgo kit you clean those bushings out. Which I think might be the main problem.
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I would say if your going to drain it for when you do the transgo. It shouldn't matter as long as the specs are the same
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Yeah I figured it out. It had numbers on the back of the connector. Couldn't ask the dude I borrowed the vagcom from if he would solder the cable. Also got the cluster working in my cayenne that doesn't have air suspension
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I had borrowed a vagcom cable. I put a jumper on pin 3 and 7 on back side of the vehicle's obd2 connector fired up a borrowed vagcom and did channel 19 which is the gateway l. Then coding and just hit ok. I didn't change anything and it removed the air suspension fault. It still showed faults for passenger seat memory and a couple other options I don't have, but it doesn't throw a fault on the cluster. When I used a durametric and checked the gateway before I used the vagcom it had the same code but I didn't program it. So we might be able to do it with a durametric cable.
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Do you have a pin out of the pins that need soldered? I'm going to have to do in on the vehicle's connector as I'm borrowing a vagcom
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Also do you know if I can use the vagcom software and cable to program my cluster?
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I'm unsure how on a vagcam and I'm currently trying to find one to borrow to see if I can code my turbo cluster. Here are the corrected instructions. I'm unsure if all of the transgo instructions are wrong or that I just had a old kit. It's the same part just different views.
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Im currently trying to get a Turbo cluster swapped into my CS, but my CS doesnt have air suspension. I get a Air suspension fault message in the color display that is not removable. Both clusters are RB4. I copied the coding of my CS cluster to the turbo and the message is still there. I checked the gateway coding and they are both the same. While researching it some more I came across a post of someone saying a autoshop successfully completed the swap and it required a autologic system. I emailed both the user and autoshop and no response.Then I googled the Touareg color cluster swap and came across this site. http://www.clubtouareg.com/forums/f73/how-to-swap-red-mfd-for-colour-mfd-69702.html. I know its a vag-com cable and not the durametric,But hopefully the clusters are similar. In step 3 its says to go to address 19 and take note of the installed modules. The poster even says if the cluster is coded for air suspension and the vehicle doesnt have it. It will throw a error message like mine is doing and that coding address 19 will fix it. So i will have to find out how to access this "address 19" with a durametric cable. It got to late here to mess with it some more, im also going to email durametric and see if they have any ideas. So please post if you have any experience or any suggestions that i could try.
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Also an update on the install. She is still shifting great. No problems what so ever beside my mpg going down because I love feeling it down shift twice and take off. Still haven't tried psm off yet.
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I would do the solenoids also. They are easy compared to taking out the valve body. You just spin a drill bit that they give you in the bushing to make sure the piston slides smoothly. You can't really mess it up. I also used red line d3 fluid. I'm not exactly sure how much it help the shifting, but it has great reviews everywhere. Also step 4 on the valve body valve swap is pointing to the wrong location. It's two valves up. I'll post a pic if I can remember. If I haven't by the time you do the install send me a message to remind me
