KevinH90

This may be helpful According to one of the posts: The frunk/trunk lights are 42mm festoons, the door puddle lights and dome light (later style) are 194 wedges, 42mm festoon one earlier style some light. I"m planning to switch to LED. If I complete the project and discover any additional information, I will add it to this thread. If you find a good source for the bulbs, please share it.

This thread may contain some useful information. I retrofitted full power seats in my car and compiled the information in a document that is attached to the thread I linked. I think that there are several possible causes for your problem. I would start by ensuring that all the connectors are properly seated and that no wiring has suffered damage. If I understand your post correctly, neither the memory buttons, nor the controls on the side of the seat work. If that is correct the problem could be something as simple as a damaged ground wire. At the other end the spectrum, the control module under the driver’s seat could be damaged.

I already sent Richard the file. However for those who may need the same resource at some future date, I have attached the BIN file and a pdf that show what the code looks like. To read the BIN file you will need to download a hex reader. 996 new 996 new.pdf

Thanks I cleared the codes and the problem persists. I’ve found instructions and videos showing how to replace the switch. I had planned to upgrade the door speakers. It looks like the projects present an opportunity for synergy.

I've been searching for about 3 days and finally stumbled on this thread. I'll be making use of the information as I trouble shoot my problem. I'm having the following symptoms which are similar but not identical to some described earlier in the thread: 1. The car beeps when I lock the doors 2. The right (passenger) window does not drop when I pull either the interior or exterior handle. 3. The red LED on the lock button turns on at random. I scanned the alarm system with my Durametric and had the following results: 34 Passenger compartment monitoring sensor, short circuit to ground Status: not present Occurance Counter: 1 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 47 Status: present Occurance Counter: 15 61 Status: present Occurance Counter: 36 60 Status: not present Occurance Counter: 4 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 16 Voltage failure at terminal 30 with alarm system active Status: not present Occurance Counter: 1 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. 25 Status lead, signal converter, short circuit to B+ Status: not present Occurance Counter: 2 This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed. I suspect that there is a problem with the passenger door, possibly with the microswitch, but I will be thinking this through before I start throwing parts at the problem.

If the hard top hadn't been installed for over 20 years, the metal may have flexed so that it slightly out of shape. I expect that it needs time to conform to the shape of your car. I had a very difficult time fitting mine the first time, but subsequent installations have gone smoothly. By the way - this thread is a trip down memory lane for me.

Check out my instructions for programming the gauge cluster: Gauge Cluster Programming You can copy your VIN and your mileage from the original cluster and paste them into the coding for the new cluster using a device called an EPROM programmer. The mileage is encrypted. You will need to copy and paste the encrypted code from the cluster. The VIN may not be necessary for an older car. On the new cars, not having the correct VIN in the cluster may cause a problem with the audio head unit.

Nice upgrade. I had thought about swapping some 987 seats into my 986, but the deal fell through. When I was thinking about 987 seats, I was concerned that I would have trouble determining how to connect the heat, power and memory. It looks like you have conquered the power issue. Do you have heat and memory? I made several gradual upgrades to my unheated two-way power seats over the years. I went through several intermediate steps in my upgrade path and eventually ended up with a heated 12-way power seat on the driver's side and an 8-way heated seat for the passenger. I have attached a document I developed based on my experience. Upgrading Two-Way Power Seats.pdf

I think you are right about the function of the 4 channel Haes amplifier. It would probably work well if you want to retain it to power the dash speakers (I hope the previous owner replaced those too) but I suggest you assess the pros and cons of an additional amp for the door and rear storage box speakers. I added a subwoofer and pair of rear-deck speakers to my 2005 Mercedes C230. I bought a "scratch and dent" 4-channel Kicker amplifier from Crutchfield for around $100 to power the speakers. I bridged two channels for the sub and the other two channels power the rear-deck speakers. I think that the amp I bought would fit in the space on the passenger side of the spar tire where the OEM 6-CD changer would be installed in a 986. I saw pictures on an installation that used the OEM CD-changer bracket to support the amp. The Boxster is not the best environment for music, but I found that installing speakers in the storage box makes a noticeable improvement in the sound quality when I drive with the top down.

When I installed my rear speakers (in the storage box behind the seat) I replaced the 4-channel amp with a 6-channel amp from a 996 Cabriolet. Is it possible that the wiring diagrams you reference in your statement that, "Several wiring diagrams suggest that a second (rear) channel may be available from the amp to drive any additional rear speakers, or a set of full-range door speakers," are 996 wiring diagrams? Please note that you can power rear speakers from the CDR 220 head unit. This article explains how to do it: Rear speaker install Since I completed my rear speaker installation, I've done audio upgrade work on other family vehicles. If I were to do this project today, I would purchase an after market amp rather than use the HAES equipment. A good after market amp has controls that allow you to adjust gain and bypass settings to achieve better sound quality. I used the HAES 6-channel amp because it was easy to install and wiring it only required a minor adjustment to the amp harness connector.

If you want to DIY the programming the instructions are in this thread: Cluster Upgrade - Rennlist - Porsche Discussion Forums RENNLIST.COM Boxster & Boxster S (986) Forum - Cluster Upgrade - Was considering a 996 cluster upgrade for my 1999 Boxster base. There is some confusion as to whether the cluster needs to be reprogrammed to work in the boxster. I know mileage correction is necessary but there's talk about adding Vin...

This thread on Rennlist discusses transplanting a 996 cluster into a 986: https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/1144355-cluster-upgrade.html#post15876755 It includes instructions for transferring mileage and VIN information between clusters.

Here's a link that I was planning to use as my starting point: Pelican Technical Article: Installing 997 Seats Into a 986 Boxster WWW.PELICANPARTS.COM In this article we'll show how to install 997 seats into a 986 Boxster Unfortunately, I was unable to purchase the seats (the seller was driving from Canada to Road Atlanta and I was planning to meet him in Roanoke. One of his companions was supposed to put the seats in his trailer, but forgot.) Therefore, I don't have any first-hand knowledge to share. I later found a set of seats (12-way driver, 8-way passenger) from a 996 Turbo that had been converted to a race car and installed them instead. I have attached the (rough) notes that I compiled before I changed plans and the 987 wiring diagram. I have some wiring and connectors from a 987 that I had planned to use in the project. Let me know if you think they will be useful. I recently adapted a set of Mercedes C63 AMG seats to work in the 2005 Mercedes C230 that I use as a daily driver. You can read about it here: Seat swap - 2009 C63 - MBWorld.org Forums MBWORLD.ORG C-Class (W203) - Seat swap - 2009 C63 - I will be meeting with a guy who is parting out a 2005 C230 some time this week. I need to replace the front wheel liners and I will also be looking to see if he has any trim that can upgrade some of my cosmetically challenged parts. The seller told me that... The seats in my Mercedes and Porsche work differently, but you may be able to glean something useful from my false starts and eventual (but delayed) completions of the project. I think you will be facing some of the same issues I encountered putting later generation seats into an earlier car. Because my C230 did not come with memory seats, I decided it would be too expensive and perhaps not technically feasible to make use of the memory function in the C63 seats. Mercedes uses a Canbus system to send data such as the signals that control seat memory. through out the car. If Porsche adopted a similar system, you may be in for quite a challenge. In addition to the seat motors, you will need to deal with the air-bag related seat occupancy sensor. If the 07 Caymans have the side impact air bags in the seats, you will need to ensure that you deal with them safely. If the seats are heated, that will be another challenge. Good luck with your project. Cayman seat info.pdf Cayman(987) 2006 Wiring Diagram - CU Seats.pdf

The first thing I would check is any cluster-related fuse. A friend of mine blew the fuse to his radio when he jump-started his Boxster. It sounds like you could have experienced a similar problem.