Domiac

I got a PM where someone asked the dimensions of my tool, here it is. Print the image and give it to a person who can drill the tool out of nylon or something similar (strong but softer than metal).
First check my image and then when fabricating the tool, make sure that the
- first dimension is <105mm
- second dimension is >85mm
- third dimension is >43mm
- first depth is 13mm
- second depth is at least 13mm + 6mm
You also have to drill a hole for the pin, paint pin and then try to fit the tool and you'll see which place to drill.
How much over or under you wish to go depends on how good drill you have, but I'd use 0.2mm difference to ensure it fits reasonably easy and that the extraction is also easy.
When using such tool, I'd advise using clean gloves and clean crankcase surfaces with isopropyl alcohol. Do not apply anything else, e.g. grease or such, latest RMS itself has PTFE coating and you should not touch it with bare hands. Correct installation depth is 13mm from the face of the crankshaft where the flywheel mates to the crank when using latest model of RMS (in my case I used 997-101-212-01-M17) as of the date when this message was written. Before you start tapping RMS in with this custom tool, try to set it as level as possible to the crank with your both hands (use gloves) and push it as deep as it goes with ease. Then tap it in from the center. I'd suggest you check how it goes in by using caliper every now and then. At least I had to tap a bit to non center position to get it in level to 13mm depth.
(edited wording on correct installation depth, thanks JFP)
Best of luck!

I believe that both of above are correct.
I have only tried to install LN tool to bank 1 once, it might very well go easier to my cams if I rotate another 719 - 720 degrees, getting the lock installed requires some finesse on turning the crank.
Yes, compression TDC #1 will have stress on bank 1 as then there are two valves open on bank 1. Overlap TDC #1 on the other hand means there are no valves open on bank 1.
I took the liberty to quote porsche52 "Board Certified Porsche Trauma Surgeon / Cayenne Grief Counselor" from rennlist, hopefully this is OK, here's part of the instructions on how to time bank 2.
"When you are just timing one bank, you must, I repeat MUST know for sure that the other bank (bank 1 in this case) is on TDC compression when you install the bank 2 cams in on overlap!! Cams are installed on OVERLAP (intake is just opening and exhaust is closing) For cyl#4 the camshaft lobes should point away from eachother when on overlap. (FYI, cams are installed on overlap because they are relaxed, no valves open, no pressure on cams for that bank), All you need to do is pull the cam plugs, (little green plugs, at the end of the cam cover) to see how the cams are allocated. When you pull out your green cam plugs, opposite end of camshaft sprockets. So for Bank 1 they will be on the front of the engine, below the alternator etc... for bank 2 they will be on the back of the engine (flywheel side). Once you have the plugs removed, you will see the ends of the camshafts. Rotate engine to TDC , the crank pully is marked "OT" and there will be a notch in the pully that lines up with a casting mark in the engine case the reads " OT Zyl 1". Fix the pully with pin, through hole marked "OT". You are now on either TDC compression #1 or overlap #1. This is why you must pull the green cam plugs. With the crank fixed @TDC, look at the ends of your camshafts for bank 1, If the smaller circular cutouts are pointing away from the engine then it can be said that cylinder #1 is on TDC overlap and cylinder #4 is on TDC compression. If the smaller circualr cutouts are pointing inward toward engine, then it can now be said that cyl #4 is on TDC overlap and cyl #1 is on TDC compression."
After reading Ahsai's last post and porsche52 comments, I am quite confident that also on a 3-chain variocam engine, to perform IMS work, one must:
1) Crank clockwise until overlap TDC #1 is seen
- cyl #1 exhaust has just closed, cyl #1 intake is just about to open
- cyl #6 exhaust open, cyl #5 intake open
- bank 1 smaller circular cutouts are pointing away from the engine (or when looking at bank 1 and intake camshaft is above and exhaust camshaft is below, then smaller circular cutouts are on the left side, larger cutouts on the right side)
2) Lock bank 1
Once again, this means compression TDC #4 and overlap TDC #1.
I am glad we got this figured out, special thanks to Ahsai! I'll mark this message as a solution after few days, unless someone feels my logic is flawed.
The image on this message shows the "360" column which we are looking for.
PS. A small amendment for Ahsai's last message. On a variocam engine, intake is only max. 2mm open at any given time, exhaust goes always up to 10mm. One would need to activate variocam somehow manually if you wish to get 10mm opening for intakes. Then again, it would seem to be impossible to activate variocam "manually" in such way that you would get intake valve travel to 10mm as there is no oil pressure when the engine is not running.

Solved it!
I managed to pull part of that stuff out near the intake / exhaust valves through the spark plug hole and oh boy do I feel stupid now. I am 99% sure that this stuff is the same paper towel that I used to cover the air intake while taking off the throttle body. ARGH.. It all makes sense since misfire issue started after I cleaned the throttle body, let the car run fine for 15 minutes to warm up, all good, but when I hit the throttle 100% for a few hundred milliseconds gaining 4000rpm and a huge suction which apparently took this paper from air intake inside cylinder 4.
Now the real joy starts. How to clean this up properly? Is there any chemical that I could reasonably safely use to break down this paper from air intake all the way to exhaust? Carb cleaner / acetone breaks this paper down good but I'd be really hesitant on spraying such stuff inside cylinders, even if I apply oil there manually, it does not sound right.
I hope the rings or valves have not suffered from this paper gunk. I am going to turn crank manually in order to get exhaust valve open on each cylinder, then put compressed air inside each cylinder, using a leak down tester unit, and try to blow all that stuff into exhaust. Another option is to get all plugs out and blow compressed air to intake.
Wont start this baby until I get experts opinions from these forums. As always, any ideas appreciated!