Coloradocurt

I recently acquired a '73 911T and among the receipts is a handful from "Performance Products" of Van Nuys, Calif. I've been out of the Porsche loop for too many years, but recall them back in the '80's and '90's (along wth Automotion in Silicon Valley) as being major sources of aftermarket Porsche parts. I've come to learn that I believe Automotion was acquired by Ecklers (which has more recently been acquired by Rose Passion), but I'm curious about whatever happened to Performance Products.

I don't smell gas and stepping about halfway on the gas pedal helps it start . Yesterday after starting for the first minute or so it's rough and doesn't want to idle nicely, that started just yesterday. After couple of minutes it's perfect again .

Runs perfect , drive in hot day 85+ degrees, stop for 30 min or longer and does not want to easily start (takes 10+ seconds of cranking - seems to starving for fuel) Replaced fuel pump, check valve and fuel accumulator. Didn’t cure the problem. Any expert suggestions?? Thanks.

Simply put: How do I go about purging/erasing the rogue seat position out so when I use the key-fob to lock/unlock the door it's not screwing my intentions??? Other than that one issue, everything else in this system is working as it should.

I've followed all of the procedures spelled out in the Owner's Manual but to no avail. The problem is that when I use the remote to lock and unlock the car, the driver's seat will return to some other position which it must have been taught/learned with a previous owner (someone who must have been considerably shorter than I am). Following the manual, with the ignition on and having chosen my preferred seating position, I used the M, key, 1 and 2 buttons on the memory console (on the door sill) to set all 3 (key, 1 and 2) for that position (I am the only driver and use but one remote ignition key). Yet when I use the key remote to lock and then unlock the car, the seat finds that long-ago previous setting. Any of those 3 buttons will bring the seat to my favored position, but I cannot get the system to "forget" that old setting. I've even followed the manual's steps for clearing the stored seat positions from memory (key button and #2 button pressed simultaneously and held for 5 seconds); then went and reset all 3 buttons (as per the above paragraph), but still the problem remains as described above. Just a bit of a PITA every time I park and lock the car to have to use one of the buttons to put the seat back in my favored position. Anyone know of a work-around to get this resolved (short of visiting the stealership)?

Problem solved. The instructions in that Rennlist thread are indeed correct. I misinterpreted them, and after re-wiring correctly, the side markers will now flash with the turn signals when the headlights are on.

Last evening was the first time I’ve driven my newly-acquired 2003 996 C4S at night, and I have a strange problem with the turn signals. When the headlights are turned on (or the parking lights for that matter), all 4 turn indicators (front/rear and right/left) illuminate steadily (not flashing) as well as the right and left turn indicators on the tach. While driving that way, when I try the turn signal stalk (on the steering column), the turn signals don’t flash. With the headlights turned on the emergency flashers won’t operate, but they do if the headlights are off. With headlights off, everything functions as it should. The only thing I’ve done which might be a contributing factor is to wire the side markers into parallel with the turn signal circuits to flash with the turn signals [http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/album103]. Has anyone else had this problem? And if so, what was the cause and the solution/fix. Thanks.

Addressing a question that's been posed to me- "Is this tool and the seal it helps to install applicable to all 996 911's (except possibly the 996TT??) and 986 Boxster models/years?" I am under the "impression" that all of these use the basic M96 engine and the answer would be yes, but I can't say so authoritatively.

That small batch run has been completed, and these are posted for sale in the RennTech Classifieds. The cost worked out to be $50 including USPS Priority Mail shipping to the domestic U.S. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/46926-fs-996-rear-main-seal-installation-tool/

Looking good, and a small batch run being done with details to be posted shortly.

I'm reading into your comments that the tight fit you mention was between the crankshaft's diameter and the tool, and not necessarily between the tool and the crankcase (although I haven't yet measured the crankcase). Working on my back under the car and using my calipers, I measured the diameter of the crankshaft to be 3.340", leaving only about a 0.014" clearance to your 85.2mm dimension. Might be a bit too tight for easy (yet still error-free) use. 0.01433" or 0.364mm clearance is tight but that is what my caliper says to me. In any case please use your own judgement here, measuring with a caliper is somewhat error prone. I does not hurt to use a bit more clearance. Also, you can always bring the first version back to the shop and ask them to take another 0.1 - 0.2mm off, but that of course takes more time.. There is also the matter of thermal expansion to think of (metal vs nylon). Prototype has been completed, but with one more revision necessary. That 43.1mm dimension was what I'd best describe as an interference fit, making it impossible for the tool to bottom-out against the crankshaft flange.

Just a success note: The car is a 2003 996 C4S with 77K miles which I bought back in December with very little maintenance history (CarFax said the RMS was done in 2004), and a long list of issues topped by a clutch past borrowed time. With a number of things keeping me from tackling the issues head-on with more time, today I finally got the old IMS bearing out with no issues - and it's pristine with both seals intact. However, lying on my back under the car while doing this, as the IMS relieved itself from the crankcase - about a cup of oil glopped onto my chest. Scratch one tee-shirt. The 2-Do list: install the upgraded IMS hardware, replace the rear main seal, install the new lightweight flywheel and clutch package, reinstall the rear axles, marry the tranny to the engine, fill tranny fluid, install all of the FWD hardware, install new engine mounts, new water pump and thermostat, and the list goes on and on. Thanks to all you guys for the threads, posts, How-to's and DIY instructions. I take a stand at what dealers charge for shop rates these days, and at a $15/hr minimum wage rate, no more fast food either!

Expanding that question- Does anyone actually own one of these tools made/sold by Cheetahonline.com? If only for reference, it might be interesting to get those dimensions.

Just out of curiosity, can anyone else get onto the www.Cheetahonline.com web site and actually complete an order for one of these installation tools? I was willing to shell out the $60 price, but the web site is FUBAR and never steps on into the checkout process.

I'm reading into your comments that the tight fit you mention was between the crankshaft's diameter and the tool, and not necessarily between the tool and the crankcase (although I haven't yet measured the crankcase). Working on my back under the car and using my calipers, I measured the diameter of the crankshaft to be 3.340", leaving only about a 0.014" clearance to your 85.2mm dimension. Might be a bit too tight for easy (yet still error-free) use. 0.01433" or 0.364mm clearance is tight but that is what my caliper says to me. In any case please use your own judgement here, measuring with a caliper is somewhat error prone. I does not hurt to use a bit more clearance. Also, you can always bring the first version back to the shop and ask them to take another 0.1 - 0.2mm off, but that of course takes more time.. There is also the matter of thermal expansion to think of (metal vs nylon). I just checked the ID on the case, and I get 104.7mm (again, lying on my back under the car using calipers). Relative to the 104.8mm OD dimension you gave for the tool, that's an even tighter fit than to the crankshaft. Given that the plastic pipe coupler suggested earlier has those two dimensions nowhere that could even be considered 'tight,' I see the challenge for this job one of getting the seal installed to that 13mm depth accurately around the full circumference - which your 'nylon' installation should succeed at very nicely. With a bit a care during the installation process by gently tapping the tool on the end in a curcular pattern - going round and round so as to keep the new seal relatively perpendicular to the crankshaft centerline until the tool bottoms out against the end of the crankshaft - that ought to be relatively easy to accomplish. I plan to relax your two dimensions (the 104.8mm and the 85.2mm) to provide about 4-5mm of clearance.