Viper6

Going to make another run at it this weekend... not sure there is clearance for drilling... I may soak in silicone spray and try to use compressed air via a ball pump needle to encourage its departure. i will get it out somehow, will post solution when I do

2004 996, Changing my brakes I noticed several dust seals cracked/failed, so I ordered the 16 replacement seals from pelican and all came out except of course the last one which remained stuck and I ripped all protruding rubber trying to get it out... now it’s really stuck and could use some advice on how to get it out if anyone has been here before. I tried pics and pliers but no luck yet.

OK, let's take this one bit at a time. Coolant lines on a 996: Very few AOS failures result in an intermix problem; usually when the AOS fails you get clouds of smoke from oil being sucked into the intake due to excessive vacuum in the system. I replace these things for a living, and every 996 leaving the shop has the coolant version. The 986 has never shown any freeze up tendencies, so no coolant is necessary. Because the AOS connection to intake vacuum is actually behind the throttle body, you will never see any oil in the TB. If you are pulling 10-11 inches of water at the oil fill cap (a good AOS will pull 4-7 inches of water on a cold start, but level off at 5 inches or less vacuum warm), your AOS is toast and should be changed out before you start sucking liquid oil into the intake, which can hydro lock the engine and kill it. Buy a new factory (not aftermarket) AOS and change it before something really stupid happens. That's pretty straight to the point, I appreciate the advice and will get the part on order. I wonder what that plastic tube coming into my intake track just before the TB is if not AOS connection... I have the X-51 kit in case that makes a difference in your response. thx

Sorry in advance but I have not found this discussed yet in the threads I have searched... If you live in a warm climate and always drive your car in conditions above freezing, is there a net benefit to just using the 986 version without cooling exchange and then simply connect the cooling hoses together to bypass the AOS... seems that would avoid the risk of fluid exchanges upon failure if I am following these threads correctly. The potential potential fluid exchange upon failure seems like a huge costly or damaging mess if it went south in that fashion (not all do I understand)... versus giving up on AOS performance in cold/freezing conditions (the downside to excluding the coolant flow to the AOS as I fathom it)? What am I missing? Is coolant through the AOS more beneficial than I comprehend? Thoughts? I just tested my car on a warm engine and it was drawing 10-11 inches of water on a calibrated gauge my buddy just happened to have on him. I have no white smoke or any oil in my Throttle Body or intake or any other symptoms but this higher than normal (?) vacuum at the filler neck... so am I right to change it now preventatively before leaking, or worse case fluid exchanges (oil into coolant passages, coolant into oil passages). Thanks for anyone's insight into my dilema... replace or wait, and when replace use 911 version or 986 version? -John

I purchased Cat back muffler delete pipes on E-bay... not sound adjustable, full time track which is what I like... WOT will certainly scare nearby pedestrians if you choose to do so on occasion. I love the flat six sound uncorked, best part is the price and simplicity of install (and reversion back to stock if you like to switch between)... maybe $160 shipped and 1-2 hrs to put them on...

I'll check em out, thx!

Great looking out gents, much appreciated! Love this forum... I'll take some pics and try to create a DIY for any others who may fall into this same trap...

Items #6 and #19 http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=813-25

Do I have the right Parts picked out for order? Looks to be about $205 shipped... my buddy has a Robin Air machine and said he will help me complete the repair correctly (on a proper lift to boot!). If I'm only out $200 and some wrench time I feel pretty lucky it was limited to that. 1X 99657309101 2X 99970753441 Btw - how long do you recommend drawing vacuum on the system before refill before and after this repair? 30 minutes? I think you can specify on the machine... Also, if we measure the oil recovered on vacuum/recovery before repair, that should be all the PAG oil we need to add back I assume after the repair is made (since it sucked up all the residual oil out of the lines it could? Or do we need to add more back since there will still be some in the damaged line we remove... if so how much to add on top of recovered amounts? Thanks for all the advice!

Do I need to replace the dryer component at same time if I open system to replace line? I'm sure I can minimize exposure to outside air when I replace the line so hoping I can avoid it... plus I'll request extra vacuum time to pull any moisture and ambient air out of the system upon refill... I was planning on just letting the AC escape when I crack the system since I have no recovery equip, replace the line and Dryer if you think I need to, then bringing it to a shop to perform the vacuum and fill (including extra oil for estimated amount in the line I replaced?). Thoughts?

OK, I can't be the only DIY guy to make this mistake (fingers crossed)... I had just completed bleeding the brakes and clutch up on jack stands (in last minute prep for my DE the next day) and was jacking up the rear to remove the rear jack stand and the car is so stiff it came off the front and rear jack stands simultaneously (normal). I then removed the rear stand and began to lower it back down and the front passenger side jack slipped off the lift point and crushed the outer AC hard line almost completely. I instantly thought it was the cooling lines and I layed on the ground in defeat for about 10 minutes knowing I had just threw away my weekend. As I lay there staring at the ceiling on the concrete floor, I then realized it was not my cooling line (too small diameter for cooling), it was my AC line and I was back in business! The line was not cracked through, but as you can see in the pics the inner diameter of the line is probably reduce by 80%... so I resolved to just not run the AC until I fixed it later. Of course it was all day rain and the cab was so foggy to see, so I had to run with AC on all day anyway... and it ran fine! My question is this... Option A - if it runs OK and is not cracked, can I just let it go and no further harm will come (besides my pride)? Or Option B - I am compromising the life of more expensive parts of the system ($1300 compressor due to reduced oil flow, etc) if I don't get it fixed asap? If the concensus/ recommendation is to fix it, what parts besides the hard line (and two new seals) do I need replace (e.g. Dryer/Desicant module, etc.)? Thanks for the quick reply... I only have 2 weeks before my next DE and I gotta decide quick! Be gentle... P.S. - the line is cold to the touch when AC is on... is that normal or a symptom of this crimped line?

Yep, they move freely... thx!

Many thanks, mystery solved then... my 40th AE is equipped with Litronic... Reasonable part and price given Porsche reputation, I'll get it ordered at local dealer... thanks again for quick reply and the help all!

See broken part in this Front Left wheel well pic of my 04 996... assume it is a suspension stroke sensor, but what does it do, and more importantly, what is the consequence of driving it un-repaired? I wonder how the ECU uses the input if there is no electronic suspension on my car... hmmm. The part it mounts to is plastic so it must have struck road debris I am guessing... if anyone knows the Part number so I can order a replacement many thanks in advance! Thx!

Yes, removal of the sliding seatbelt cover actually. I have an 04 40th AE, thx.