Brainz006

I've done this, but unfortunately I don't have any pictures to share. Removal: Use a drillbit the same diameter or slightly larger than the plastic posts on the new trim piece and drill out the center of the "donuts", aka plastic welds. You dont need to drill much, probably only 1/4 inch deep and the weld will break free. In my case, I was repairing my trim, not replacing it with a new piece, hence I left the extra donut weld material on the door card as it provided extra plastic for me to melt during reassembly. Since you are replacing the trim piece with a new one, you may need/want to use a razor blade to scrape the remaining donut off the door card so that it's flush - - but I wouldn't bother unless there's a clerance/interference issue. Reinstallation: With the old trim piece removed, your new one should slip right into the holes and the posts should protrude through the back of the door card. Since you have good plastic on your new trim piece, I would first recommend trying to find some screws and washers to thread into the plastic posts as per the suggestion above. I expect the posts may require some trimming if you use this method as they come long so they can be melted down. The screw/washer method is likely your easiest approach, but if you want the factory style weld, read on. Branding iron method: I have a small hobby lathe and made a "branding iron" with which I melted the posts down and recreated the donut shaped plastic weld. You might be able to fashion one similar to mine without the lathe using a drill and/or file and some parts from the harware store. Essentially what I did was make a brass disc, about the diameter of a dime, and maybe 5mm thick. The face of disc was grooved concave, to create the inverse the donut shaped weld. I drilled a hole in the center of mine and tapped it to fit a soldering iron I had, but you could also put it on a metal rod and use a torch to get it hot before you brand/melt the plastic. With this setup I was able to replicate the factory look almost perfectly. If you dont have a lathe or access to one, you could probably get a similar result by using a large nut and bolt (~3/8" diameter). Slightly sharpen the end of the bolt with a file, and then thread the sharpened bolt into the nut until the point is even with the outside of rhe nut. The resulting shape would approximate the donut branding iron I made. I hope that makes sense. With your trim piece held tight in the door card, use the branding iron to melt the plastic down. You dont want the iron too hot or the plastic may burn or get stuck to the iron. You just want it hot enough that it melts it down into the desired shape. You may have to experiment a bit with the technique. Start colder and work your way up, its easy to remelt the plastic if your iron wasnt hot enough. Hope that helps. Good luck!

Other than the valve bodies and the front seal, these transmissions seem pretty robust. Usually a fluid refresh (with correct leve), new VB, and/or [worst case] front seal replacement will get them shifting well again. There are surprising few reports of the transmissions dying and requiring a full rebuild. Hope you got it sorted. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'm having a little trouble following the exact situation, but it sounds like you are low on fluid by at least a quart. You'll lose drive in the trans if there's not enough fluid, so getting the level right is step one. Do a drain and refill and tell us how many quarts/litres you take out and put in. That alone may fix the problem. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Did you replace the entire pump, or just the o-ring? I did the latter once with an EBay kit and the o-ring fit was poor. I replaced the o-ring with one from bagpipingandy and it fixed it. The computer looks to see if there’s a tank pressure increase on startup. If not enough, then you get the error. It’s likely the pump or the line to the tank, and most likely where it comes out of the pump. Try spraying the pump and lines with soapy water and then doing the start routine. Check for bubble indicating a leak. Careful, don’t accidentally run over yourself. Good luck. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I suppose it depends, but I’ve always found new ball joints to be quite stiff. Aftermarket part? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Looking at your photo again, I'd say adding additional grease is somewhat optional. It added a lot of extra time to get the right grease. For an outer joint, seems maybe worth it, but the inner would seem to have an easier life. I seem to recall (but it's been a while and was a different car) that the next easiest repair was to buy a reman'd half shaft and bolt it in. YMMV. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

One of my other cars got a small puncture in the boot from road debris and started spewing grease similar to yours. I injected some extra CV grease into the boot using a needle on a grease gun. Then I cleaned up the boot with rags and isopropyl alcohol. Finally, I dabbed a coating of Black Gasket Maker (similar to RTV) over the hole - - all the autoparts stores should carry it. Knock on wood, it's held for over a year. On my car it was an outer boot, so I positioned the car to just the right spot and turned the wheel outwards so that the area I needed to cover had the accordion expanded around the punctured area - - I'm not sure if you can do that on an inner boot without unbolting the CV (or if it's necessary), but it definitely helped and was needed for an outside boot that flexes a lot. Good luck. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

The drilling instructions are on the papers that come with the kit — not sure if they’re available online. The hard part is not drilling the plate, but separating the VB halves w/o losing all the little bits. Work slowly in a clean, well-lit environment, and pay attention. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Air suspension workshop message is often related to a failing piston ring on the air pump and often indicates that the pump is having to work too hard to raise the system pressure (and/or change ride height). I'm not sure why it seems to also be temperature dependent, but it's probably thermal expansion related. I bought a cheap eBay kit which didn't work (piston ring was slightly too small), and then found another vendor that sold a more expensive, but better made kit which, along with a full cleaning of the pump on the bench, fixed my issue. There's a lot of threads and videos on this repair as it's a common problem amongst a lot of European cars with air suspension. If you've not done this maintenance, I'd put it on the list to potentially get rid of that error message. The parts were around $40 and it took an hour or two to overhaul the pump from start to finish. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

If it's at the very back by the firewall and on the driver's (left) side, it could also be one of the coolant tees or a hose. It's not fun/easy to work back there but it's doable, particularly with remote hose clamp pliers. If your coolant pipes have not been done, it's a good time to do them as many of the same parts need to come off the top of the engine to reach either location. Also consider replacing the plastic tees with new aluminum ones from JagsThatRun. Search here and Rennlist for all the details. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

I’d plug the fuses back in and keep driving/refilling it to see what happens before spending more money. It’s possible that your issue is now solved after you changed the purge valve — the purge value is suspect #1 with post-refueling issues. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

My purge valve would stick open when warm. Using a set of jumper leads, I tested the valve with a 12V battery starting from cold. It was initially closed, and then after a few cycles with the battery it would stick open. This intermittent failure may also contribute to the car running fine again after sitting overnight. You could crimp the vacuum line prior to refilling, and that should eliminate your stumble (assuming its the PV that's leaking). But you will throw a CEL after a few minutes because the sensor that's looking for vacuum on the evap system won't find it thanks to your crimped hose. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

While your battery was likely part of the original issue (with multiple codes), your voltage (and lack of weird codes) suggests it's fine. Battery now seems like a red herring. What you are describing sounds like purge valve. Google P0441 Cayenne and you'll see that most roads lead to replacing the PV. Usually the hard running is immediately after filling up - - mine (CTT) would crank for a long time and then be stumbly for a minute, and then clear up. It sounds like yours is non-turbo, which may manifest differently (but similar). As I understand the issue/system, what happens is that when you fill up, fuel gets sucked into the tank evap system and is eventually sucked into the intake (as unmetered vapors that cause the engine to run rough). The purge valve is supposed to block the vapors (closed) from being pulled into the intake at idle and low speeds and causing poor running. But when you're cruising, the PV will open and pull a vacuum on the fuel evap system. There is a sensor that measures the vacuum on the evap system. By clamping the intake hose, you will trip that sensor. If you let the car sit overnight (or keep driving) , the fuel in the evap system will evaporate and your problem will go away until you refill again. You need to test the PV as Lewis suggests above. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Plugging/clamping the intake side rubber hose that connects to the purge valve might give you a positive result and would suggest/confirm a failed purge valve (which essentially allows a vacuum leak through the gas tank). You can also use a soft rubber vacuum cap with a tiny hole drilled in it (0.5mm) to choke the amount of vacuum allowed through the valve. The cap can easily be installed on the intake side valve nipple, and then reinstall the rubber intake hose over both the cap and nipple. While this fix will help a failed purge valve, the car will generally run more smoothly if you just replace the valve. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

There is a small amount of overlap with doing the purge valve and with plugs and coils. But probably only 10 mins overlap. If the condition of the plugs is unknown, it's relatively cheap to replace them and takes about 2 hours, most of which is spent on the right side of the engine). But if the car is running fine (no rough idle, no hiccups or stuttering under acceleration, no codes) then you might not want to mess with it until you notice an issue (or run up a bunch of miles that would otherwise warrant a change). Don't fix it if it's not broken. Coils definitely matter, and can cause problems, but given their expense, I personally won't replace them unless they're visually cracked, are throwing a code on a cylinder, or I've already exhausted all other suspects (namely vacuum leaks, including the purge valve). My recent experience also suggests that stuttering under acceleration can also be coils. Doing the plugs is a good way to check for cracked coils. Top tip: if you find any that are cracked whilst doing the plugs, reinstall the cracked coils on the left-hand cylinder bank and mark them with a paint pen. That way you can order replacements and quickly swap them, as the left side is much easier/faster to work on than the left side - - probably less than a half hour the second time around. Good luck. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk