violaGT3

Yes that smell worried the hell out of me for a little while! Rossa's definitely make it feel like you were at the strip.

With what Rhamilton is noting I wonder if it could be that the transponder it's self could be failed in the key??? Is there another way to test it's function, like with manually unlocking the door or something? Or do you have a spare key? Yea, that's fantastic yet another possible failure I hadn't even thought of. fun fun fun.

Mine does not have a shield there. 99C2 But, with that said my car is very aggressively lowered. My 295-30-19's are nearly fully tucked in the quarter. SO I wouldn't know if something was removed to clear the suspension tuning.

Holy Poo! That is a lot of miles! Wow! Yea, there are going to be a few things to consider in that. Dharn55 may be on the money, I am not familiar with where the starter is on these yet as I have a Guru service mine. But it might be worth while to use jumper cables to positive pole on the starter to see if it is good. Typically the starter is a tell tale, in that either the solenoid fails or the motor fails, so either you get a click, or a buzz like turning sound, both at the same time is normally a stretch but with that many miles, the towel may have been thrown in. I would "assume" it would be the relay or the ignition switch, from my experience. But my experience falls under drag racing old crappy cars and VW's which IGN switch's are the root of all evil in. With that many miles it really could be a slew of thing including the IGN. switch. GL P.S. If there is a bad ground to the starter, then it could have shorted and burned out, happens, either by corrosion, road debris, etc. again GL!

I am not a Guru, but I would start by checking the silenoid and the relay(listen for action"click) Then I would suspect the IGN switch. I am sure someone will chime in once they get off work and help further. P.S. It would be good of you to post year, C2/C4, mileage, recent work done(for instance disconnected battery and possibly left terminal loose AMPS) GL

You may want to look into the Bearing update for the tranny. Mine acted like 2nd synchro but it was the bearing. This is a well known issue. Felt as though the shifter needed to go another 1/2 inch to get it in gear, if you shifted just quick enough it would take, but would tend to pop out. Good luck with it!

Well, I guess I am in the clear on this one as of now. I have Karl Wilen doing a slew of maintenance including sending the tranny to G-Box to update the bearing and clean it up, oh and toss in a Reiken LSD, as well as handle some other things like the IMS/RMS and all the usuals. He let me know that my engine is an 01' or later motor(tensioner pulley difference?), so apparently either it blew before 02' when I bought it, or Champion updated it before I bought it? Either way Karl is giving a nasty little breathe of life back to her. He recommended LWFW and a GT spec clutch to complement the EVOM Intake, Modded exhaust. So with a modest $17k put into her she'll be a beast again! Just a little nastier! It is Great to keep seeing so many people caring for their cars and a sigh of relief from what at first seemed so dismal with all the posts of engine failures. I have looked at the 997's a couple of times and I just love the lines and interior of the 996's better, So until she bore's me I'll keep loving the amazing little car! I hope this has been a helpful reference thread to anyone fearing a potential engine killing sound and helps people find someone who has experienced the same issue they are having. Love the stories keep'em coming! 80k something on the ODO, unknown on the motor, will try and find out when it was replaced. Jim

My buddy burnt out a piston due to a failing injector. Not sure if it would crack the piston but then again at 3krpms I am not sure if anything wouldn't crack a rogue piston. Sad to hear it.

Alright, I give, I have documented everything so far and I am having no luck. The brake lines are a bear, no give. I have removed the distribution block mount nuts. Freeing it helped to get the MC out of the booster but it is still pinned against it. I am sure that with a little elbow grease I can get it free. Now all this is useless as I cannot get the rod to disconnect from the bridge. It just keeps spinning like it is e-clipped in there. I have at this point cut both boots/bellows and can see all that one would need to see. On the end of the new booster assembly there is a rod with a long cylinder nut(the fat nut on the rod, it is like a cap nut, approx 2 inches long with a stud mounted on the top of it)with a threaded stud sticking of the connecting end. There is a yellow anodized spring nut at what would be at the end of the rod assembly that appears to be what is holding the assembly together. But it is not unscrewing from the end of the rod. Can anyone tll me if the MY99, has a threaded end or a e-clip style end on it? I am trying to be careful not to break anything as there is a big ta-do about MY00 changes and the MY99 parts not being avail. I have pics but they look like the ones posted in Loren's link above. Cep't that the brake lines are a rediculous mess. TIA

Hey Loren any ideas on how these two conect? I am messing with the rod between the booster and the pedal. There are two nuts one big and one thin. I loosened the thin one and backed it up a bit and all attempts to loosen the other one have been useless. It seems the the rod/shaft just keeps turning. Does the big nut thread back like the thin one or is it supposed to thread towards the other direction. I am leary of grabbing the rod with some vice grips without know which way to take it. Common sense tells me it follows the thin nut, but I am not sure that "it" knows that?

Glad to hear it! I don't know how mine runs at 65mph, as I am usually just getting out of the intersection at that speed! J/K You might say I enjoy a vehilce that superceeds it's funtion too

:offtopic: I stoppped by the BMW dealer today to return the big bow borrowed to surprise the wife. I took a seat in the new Z4 Coupe - much smaller than an M5! The local paper's auto writer called it the "Cayman killer" at $20K less and 255 HP. I can't believe I can buy a brand new 2007 Z4 for the same price I paid for my 99 C2 three years ago. Humm.... Someone dropped him on his head as a child :beer: MY99 C2 82,000. Bought it with 78,000. Replaced clutch, light weight fly wheel, redid exhaust (headers,muffler and cat by pass). No oil leaks or oil comsumption. Unfurtunately, I was not aware of the IMS issue and was not told about it wen the clutch was changed so the IMS upgrade was not done. Scared to death about it failing Well this is the thread to check in on! There are really alot of great stories in here. I myself began to worry after reading a few of the nightmarish threads about 3.4l failures. I have a 99' C2 Aero. It is an absolutely gorgeous car to me and the fear of it imploding had me doing alot of researching on the sbj. Well it is a few years later I am am happy to say I have made it to the 80kmls mark and she is running like champ. Cept' needing the booster changed(cowl flooded), the clutch changed, the 2nd gear pop out addressed, as well as a no drip sweat at the RMS and last but not least the AC drier replaced. Just been too busy with my companies pulling me every which way! P.S. my C2 is sporting a couple of HP goodies, including; headers, EVOM intake(not the little cute orange thingy, the real one) Nasty Custom Mufflers! accellerating is exhilerating, and WOT scares the crap out of Vette owners for miles, all the while cruising is perfectly docile! I hope to love my 996 for many years to come, hopefully I'll never see a 997 GT3 in person. The misses will not let me have another car. . . 1 Italian, 2 German, 1 Japanese, 2 American(Ford trucks).

Okay, apparently I need a DIY on how to search! I did a search for Brake in the DIY forum and read through 4 pages of stuff none containing any of this. . . :unsure: Thanks Again Loren! If you were a woman I would propose.:thumbup: Found my folley, this is under the boxster section. Didn't check there.

I have not played with the brakes for 2 years and for some reason the fluid level has increased. The temp. here is lower than it has been in a while sub 100 degrees, it's about 80 right now is it possible that the fluid is retaining heat and thus expanded? Planning on a flush after replacing the booster just noticedthe level was high, while prepping to replace thebooster as thepedal has been hanging and running away from my foot, causing jerky braking and failure to release without pulling the pedal back with my foot. TIA

Hi all as per suggestions here I am ready to attempt to replace my brake booster. . . That being said I have the compartment cover removed and I am seeing very short hard lines to the control module. My concerns are is it necessary to open the fluid system to replace the booster, are there any unique tools needed and can it be done neatly? I am an experienced hobby mech, I have built turbo'd drag cars, know my way around an engine, played the solo 1 circuit, I just tend to steer clear of things I cannot do forward and backwards in my mind. Also I do not want to tear it down and find a surprise causing me to have to have it flatbedded to the dealer. TIA Also I would have no problem documenting the steps and creating a D.I.Y. on the job. I have a few D.I.Y. postings on TurboDodge.com and FordRangerForums, no LED mods, all HP related.