987_RDC

Others have given the feedback (via the track times) that the 996 4 pot to 6 pot swap is not worth the effort. The swap to 997 6 pot is.

Directly to the spoiler rams. Wiped them down first with rubbing alcohol and cleaned the area where the rams enter the seals. They are just like the part that slides into a shock and needs conditioning and lowest friction possible.

As much fun as being kicked in the head. Swapped the top surrounds and added leatherique rejuvenator to the lowers. Replacement leather from lseat.com and not an exact match as it was more textured leather than the stock. Local shop quoted me 4 hours per seat to install so I did it myself in about an hour each.

Hello has anyone located a how-to with replacing the upper leather? EDIT: found one

Ok well going to be taking apart my 996 sport seats for a replacement of top leather. From what I have read both the 996 and 997 use a similar element heater type. The differentiation is in the controls and complexity of the switching. I had added aftermarket heater elements to seats in the past. Going with whatever switching that comes with the aftermarket elements seems to be the way to go.

Found the PN for that R splash shield and will replace since like $11. 99756152200

Pretty sure using the PIWIS you can swap out an immobilizer but you need IPAS codes. Technically the process should carry over the encrypted remote fob signals and return functionality.

Cool good update. PIWIS in E mode guessing.

Yeah should be fairly easy to locate the brains and as JFP said disconnect the power. Maybe just pull the fuse since who knows if someone else might want that in the future.

Pickup the parts yet?

Ok any other aftermarket besides RUF not have drone? (seems stock + GT2 do not either)

Aftermarket alarm or radar detector?

Is this what the OEM GT2 996 exhaust looks like?

Loren does the GT2 exhaust have any drone? I want a bit more sound but generally dislike aftermarket. (except Cargraphic in some models)

Sounds like something weird with the CAN bus if not the ignition switch. Perhaps disconnect and reconnect that unit.

I had excellent results with my convertible top and also the rear spoiler operating smoother and faster with applying Finish Line Max Suspension Spray.

Why are you replacing the sensor? What behavior is occurring?

My 996TT came with upgraded diverter vales. I put on the EPL stage 1 flash for K16, 91 octane and 6 speed. For sure made the top end wake up. I think it was a worthwhile upgrade.

Highly recommended update for any 986/996 is to swap those billet bushings into a used 997 shifter and exchange out the 996 shifter.

Any update?

I find that baffling since how does dealerships add a remote if all "remote" slots are full? (i.e. four) From my experience with the delete button in the "transponder" section everything gets cleared out. Perhaps the "remote" section does not do that since you can see "current radio" showing the 8 digit paired fob. Thus just tread carefully and document the keys in hand and remove those that are not. But unless you can backwards eject the 24 digit code from known keys first, how do you not mistakenly turn all the original remotes useless? There is a Delete and then a different button for Delete All. I tried to just delete just one unknown "transponder" and all four "transponder" slots got blown away. Not a huge deal with the "transponder" since you don't need some magic 24 digits. I took pictures before since I knew I wanted to just remove the two "mystery transponders". Position 2 and Position 4 were my two in-hand keys. I went to delete (singular) Position 1 and all four got deleted. Maybe that is a known function since I tried to remove the 1st transponder? Again switching gears back to the fob remote section: Wild that the 24 digit radio code gets turned into an 8 digit code when paired with the immobilizer.

Say I did not have an open slot #4 in the remotes section. What happens when you select delete? How do you maintain the 1st key that came with the car without the 24 digit code? I think on the IPAS code sheet there something called Remote 1 and Remote 2 but those are the encoded versions and not the 24 digit style. I could be recalling that wrong....

The reason you need all your keys is that when you/dealership try and select one transponder pill to delete the PIWIS will delete them all! So then you need to go back and re-add each key or you aren't going anywhere. Switching gears to the remote fob: Loren do you know how to read out the 24 digit code from the car for the two remotes that come from the factory? I have a 2nd "original key" where the fob stopped working. Wondering if I can remove and re-add it to see if will work again. Also worried that the "remote" section will operate similar to the "transponder" section where if you select one line to remove then all the remotes get deleted. How would I know the 24 digit code to re-pair the still working other key? (Three key heads in hand but only new replacement key has 24 digit white tag) I just paired up the new remote but lucked out that I have an open slot 4 and did not have to delete anything in the PIWIS for the "remote" section. I have now three keys where two work for starting + remote unlocking. Trying to figure out what I want to do with the 3rd key where the remote stopped working.....can it be fixed?.....turn into a valet key? My dad's 996 also has a key that got "orphaned". Found that key after the dealership stupidly removed remote/transponder slots when adding a replacement backup key. Seriously why did they not just use slot#3 for both on the new key preserving the #2 key if found? Anyways, ideally I would like to figure out if anyway to get the remote working again but hard to figure out what the immobilizer uses to turn the 24 digit code into the "stored remote code". Guessing I am SOL on that since they likely cleared out all the "remote" section when adding a backup key. Does Porsche NA know all the original 24 digit remote codes in a database somewhere........

I just took off my two rear passenger panels to check the drains. They were actually mostly clean and one had a missing splash guard (made replacement from white semi-stiff plastic packaging). I used a toothbrush and simple green to clean all of the rubber trim around the clamshell and the "chutes" into the drain bins. Not sure why my passenger rear rug is wet. Could of been that the drains are partially blocked and I flooded them using a mechanical carwash. I still need to remove the rear wheels and splash guards to check the exit ports. Highly recommended that you spray both sides of your cab pistons with Finish Line Max Suspension Spray. I had it from servicing the spoiler and wow what an improvement. My top stays in the service position when before it slowly crept back or forward. Both sides of my "corrugated tube" were in good shape.(seen to right of the white plastic) Should not be split and also have some grease and o-ring where it connects up top. Then goes down and clips to feed into the bin. More diagrams and pictures:

Loren can a PIWIS One or II do the settings? I have access in San Jose.