987_RDC

Just realized I have the rain sensor option. So my dial just adjusts the sensitivity of the sensor and not timing. Does the M265 anti-dazzle mirror + rain sensor option use a different relay PN? I see a 996.615.119.01 relay in the position and not a 996.615.103.00

I got really different readings and ordered a replacement (Per ef1 post) Took close up shots which I should of done before spending money as both old/new match in terms of Ohm values. Measured on PN 996-613-127-00 (gloss) & 996.613.127.10 (matte) "Pad values" from far left then clockwise: ~1 ohm (Resistor shows 000), 112ohm (Resistor shows 1100 i.e. 110), 270 (Resistor shows 2700 i.e. 270), 624 (Resistor shows 6200 i.e. 620), 1.2k (Resistor shows 1201 i.e. 1200), 3.3k (Resistor shows 3301 i.e. 3300) So should I be replacing the relay?

Might want to ask a more technical forum like MHH Auto. Or call and perhaps pay a speedo shop like Palo Alto speedometer to source?

Not sure how something so simple can go bad. Mine seems to only have one spot that still "works". When I rotate the dial the wipers kick on twice at full to the right. Here is the inside:

Time for the PCCM+

Sounds like your map software is not the proper region for where the GPS antenna is placing your car.

Have you asked a dealership? I found similar results when trying to order old PNs.

Just completed the long planned install in my '04 996TT. Mechanically it was straight forward since the car came with PCM from the factory (regarding rear metal frame and plastic front). I had to just remove the Pioneer unit that was present. Below I opted to remove the CD holder and swap for the "cubby". What was strange was the black ISO connector in the rear did not have switched 12v present (A7). I had to add the pin so the PCCM+ will auto ON/OFF. Also missing was the illumination pin (A6) but the PCCM+ uses GPS time to do day/night. Perhaps the factory PCM setup utilizes the MOST connection for unit wake-up? (I did not install that part) The phone adapter box really should have wiring at least 2" longer. Installing it in the normal spot of the added "cubby" you have to blind mate it. Another option is to leave the cup-holder off the bracket and install the wires but then you have to fight that to install. For the aftermarket amp I had to run RCA out (F/R + remote wire) from the mini-ISO yellow C1 connector and then also enable the 12v remote amp turn-on wire (output pin 6) inside the PCCM+ settings. The volume and crisp output is vastly superior to the aftermarket unit that was present. I have an amped Focal setup and it is loud at 10. Factory FARKA connectors for GPS & Radio worked fine with no adapters since PCM optioned 996. I still need to install the factory MIC plastic but I did remove the speedo surround and fish the included MIC to that left side spot. What was baffling to me was that the pinout of the plug was wrong. I bought my PCCM+ used so maybe there was a mixup but luckily I had a four pin USB connection from the 997 PCCM+ install thread that worked for the MIC on the 996 PCCM+. When you think of all the possible options/configurations analog+MOST DIN/Double DIN. Porsche had their hands full regarding this offering. I've also run the wiring to support an aftermarket rear backup camera. (ten pin connector with details in 997 PCCM thread) I succeeded installing one on another two cars but need more time on the 996. I have the 12v output camera power and the RCA input + pwr coiled up under the front mats. I plan to run the trigger wire back from the reverse lights to the PCCM+ to trigger the camera power along with switching the PCCM+ display. After that is done I have a wireless CarPlay USB adapter which I might install since I do not want to wire up my phone every time I get in the car.

To add some info: The sensor under the battery on the Turbo and C4 is Porsche Fuel Pressure Sensor 99660620500 – Bosch 0261230015 I recently painted my battery tray and was wondering what that is since it looks like missing a tube attachment but I believe just to sense the pressure in one of the tank lines.

Adjusted up the gain on the subwoofer channel and it really sounds great. I set the AMP1 to the 4"+tweeters and AMP2 to the Focal utopias and of course SUB to the 8". Now to swap in the PCCM+

Thanks for the heads up! Maybe they meant litres. I fixed my lack of bass with gutting the stock cabriolet subwoofer enclosure and sealing it for a proper 8" DVC subwoofer install. Super happy that I did and only cost me my rear speakers since running 5 channel amp. Cut a hole in the box and flipped it over and cut to epoxy the old speaker hole closed. Added more foam to the "bass tube" after trimming to seal the whole enclosure.

I just ordered the double din frame from Suncoast Porsche. I think I was missing that. My AC is already down below and I installed the "cubby" spot above it.

I haven't installed mine yet and still in sealed box. I think the USA version comes with it. Checking eBay: I plan to tackle it soon now that I have my speakers and amp figured out.

At the moment I have diamond component 4" + tweeters in the front, stock 4ohm BOSE (combo) rears, 13WS in the doors on sub channel (wired in parallel @ 2ohm) Amp is Kicker 46CXA6605 At the moment I have the 1 ohm BOSE cabriolet subwoofer box disconnected. Not sure how to do anything with that as it is a strange impedance and size (~4"x6") Also found on another post that the BOSE door boxes are .14 cf (in case someone wondering) Ideally the 13WS wants like 3 cf or so.

Thanks for the post and pics. I used it as the inspiration to put the Focal 13WS in the doors of my 996TT. I was able to mark w a paint pen the areas to cut away (aimed screw terminals down) from the stock BOSE box and then drill 1/8" pilot holes for #8 sheet metal screws. Prior to mounting I used some epoxy and foam to build up the edges of the stock box, stuff the port and then added poly fill. A strip of adhesive foam went around the mounting circle to seal the 5" driver to the BOSE boxes. They do not have as much bass as 165V30 Focal speakers in another car but probably the best that can be done with stock boxes in the 996.

Sorry to hear about the misfortune. Misfires can create a lot of stress on the engine parts.

Looks great. Nice work! I will be adding the PCCM+ with aftermarket rear camera soon.

Isn't that the bose sub? I think big torx up top and often that tab is broken. Take pics. I plan to go the behind the radio and cut the duct route to get to both flaps. Then JB black 5 min epoxy the cut. Will be stronger than before that stuff is amazing. Lots of youtube videos on the behind the radio method vs. one door access from under the cowl.

The CDR23 should be plug and play with the ISO connections. You can code a section of the DME with the radio code to remind yourself the lock-out code that comes with the radio.

987 + 997 comes with the compressor and goo too. I think the 996 normally assumes your spare is fully pumped up.

I've only seen the spare tire + jack + tool wrap. I've ordered a GT2/GT3 foam insert that has the compartment for the compressor, goo, first aid and emergency triangle. (plus misc tools such as tow hook)

FYI it appears a valet key head ordered from the dealership will come with its own transponder pill. I will be adding it to the 996 and report results. Goal is to have two fully functional keys and a 3rd valet key.

Finalized my winter prep project. Removed the rear wheels and took out the clogged "vents" Also replaced the temp white plastic with the proper OEM windage plastic piece. Added GT3 front brake scoops and also flushed the brake fluid since removed all the wheels.

Probably broken microswitch on the clamshell that tells the car the clamshell is open so proceed to next step. There are a series of switches that need to do their job across the procedure. You start at one end and work towards the final switch.

You can make one "good" key by swapping the pill over from the will-start-key to the will-unlock key.