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BoxyLady
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HELP! Parking brake won't disengage!
BoxyLady replied to BoxyLady's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
thanks for the reply. actually, I slipped off the outer trim, and removed the snap-on area of the console around the parking brake to get a better look. I can see the bottom end of the shaft where the button is pressed, and it is move all the way back to its stop position when the button is pressed. I put a small mirror down in the console area under the brake handle so I could observe what is going on when I try to operate the parking brake. It looks to me like the lever resting on the splines of the rachet lock is not coming up far enough when the button is pressed to clear the ratchet splines, and clearing the splines while the button is pressed is what allows the brake handle to be lowered.... -
HELP! Parking brake won't disengage!
BoxyLady replied to BoxyLady's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
appreciate the replies and ideas. I did move it off the Rhino ramps and backed it into the garage, where it is on level ground. tried the rocking technique. took as much of the parking brake lever apart as I dared, and it appears that the lever that raises off the rachet splines when you push in the button is not coming far enough off the splines to allow it to lower. I can click the lever up one more position and the button pops out fully, but when I depress the button to release, it moves down just a hair before jamming. looks like a flatbed tow truck and a couple of hours labor at the Porsche dealer. And to think.....I changed my own oil 'cause I didn't want to pay the dealer $200.....now I'm going to probably have to pay $200 in labor for this, plus the $70 or so I already paid to do my own oil change DIY is overrated :-0 -
HELP! Parking brake won't disengage!
BoxyLady replied to BoxyLady's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
\ thanks! I will give that a try. I thought it might be the angle of the car, so I brought it down off the ramps(slowly obviously, with the parking brake being on!) now it's on level ground and still nothing. I will try the rocking method thanks! -
Hi, put my S on up the Rhino Ramps, engaged the parking brake, changed the oil. NOW, the parking brake won't release! I raise the lever slightly to relieve pressure, the press the button, and it will not come down. there is no obstruction under the brake lever hindering it. I had not driven the car, so I know the rims where the parking brake shoes grab was not hot Until I figure this out, I can't get the car off the ramps! thanks!
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thanks so much!
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hi folks, i have looked at every post I can find on this, and talked with my dealer, showed them the TSB, etc. but there is still a disconnect somewhere. I have an 04 s. according to the TSB, starting with MY 04, the wiring harness from the fuse box is there as standard equipment(suppossed to be located above the wheel well on the right rear side behind the access panel). I found the part numbers via this site to order the module, harness, and 7 pin connector. I had the Curt hitch installed last week. the dealer is telling me that the parts will get the harness from the fuse box connected to the controller, and the harness part number will run from the 7 pin connector to the OEM hitch connectors. what I can't get is the integrated harness in the OEM hitch that connects from the control module to the 7 pin connector, they are telling me. I am trying to understand how people that get the Curt hitch, the module, and the wiring harness get this connected to the 7 pin connector???? I only need lights for my trailer, no brakes. This seems like it should be easy, but with Porsche, I have found, nothing is straight forward. Can someone please enlighten me? I can't tow until I get this figured out. thanks so much. Jeff
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thanks Loren, so can you help me out with the amp hours? it's not listed on the battery at all(the new one). only the cold cranking amps at 32 degrees and at 0 degrees. I have found several formulas for deriving the amp hour rating, but there seem to be a lot of variables in getting the number: what end of cell voltage I am using, how long the dischrage period is, etc. seems very complicated for a car battery. For years all I ever had to worry about was how many CCA's does the vehicle require for cranking at a certain temp. and I was done! also, should I be concerned about there not being a vent outlet on the new battery to reattach the venting hose to? I'm starting to wonder if I need to take it to the Porsche dealer and pay them $400 for a battery replacement..... :-)
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thanks folks, final question. what about these "micro encapsulated seat bolts"? this is a new one on me. You must replace the seat retaining bolts on the driver's side when replacing the battery, according to the manual......really? C'mon..... plus, I can't find anywhere in the specifications or in the battery section of the manual where it talks about cold cranking amps or the amp hour rating...anyone know? OH, and one other question. the battery I got(Autocraft) does NOT have a venting outlet for the hose to hook to. Is that a big deal?
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Hi folks, starting to have a problem with a dead battery. every 3rd or 4th start....nothing....jump it and it's fine. before I start looking deeper, I figured it's a 5 year old vehicle with 60k miles, so start with something easy like replacing the battery....wow....I find out there is an auxiliary battery in the trunk, and under the section about replacing the battery it talks about having a pro do it...chance of voltage issues, etc. now, I know with some things this is usually baloney, and just an excuse for the dealer to rip you with a $400 battery. But I saw no such verbiage in the manual when replacing the battery in my wife's 2002 Boxster S. so, is changing the battery a DIY? thanks very much...
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thanks 3ball. i did find the single screw, and pulled down the housing. It really was not that hard with a flashlight in the footwell, and the CDR23 pulled out. I was able to feed the cabling through the back. install looks great! thanks again for the reply
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Hi folks, I will be mounting my XM Airware on the console, and need to run my modulator wiring up the passenger side of the console to plug into the antenna connection of the CDR23. I have no issues with sliding out the CDR23. I already did it to do a dry run of the modulator to ensure it worked properly. Now I want to do a permanent mount. How do i get my modulator cables up into the cavity in the back of the CDR23? I have seen posts referring to shining a flashlight from the passenger footwell to see where the cable should run into the back. Do I remove the passenger footwell, black plastic piece? Do you run something akin to a fish tape in through the CDR23 opening and down into the passenger foot well in order to pull the modulator cables up? thanks for the help........
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hey, thanks very much! I did a "test run" on this. pulled the CDR23 out with no problem. checked out the connector. found on another thread that I needed an EU-30 antenna adaptor set for doing the splitting you are describing. actually I already mounted the XM antenna to try the wireless FM modulator, which is when I realized the serious problem with interference, and started investigating the modulator. I have never seen a vehicle that is set up pefectly for running antenna cable as the Cayenne. a nice channel along the windshield and down the passenger B piller. all around the dash and down the front, where I can see no antenna wiring at all. it was amazingly simple to hide the cable. I received the modulator today and will be getting the antenna adaptors sometime this week. i am very interested in the direct wiring for power, so please le me know when you have this done. I don't think I want to take this on, as getting anywhere close to the electrical system, even the fuse box, on this vehicle scares the daylights out of me..........all my electrics are working perfectly, so I want to know exactly what I'm doing before attempting the direct wire! thanks again for your post....
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Hi folks, I need to install an XM FM direct modulator to give me a direct wire connection from my external XM receiver to avoid the interference when the wireless XM transmitter is used to the radio on an unused FM station. the modulator has "y" type of connection where you plug the existing antenna plug into the modulator. Can someone tell me where the antenna attaches(I assume he antenna is molded into the windshield, but have also seen references to it being integrated into the rear roof spoiler)? I slid out the CDR23 and see the antenna cable running into the back of the dash. also, is the antenna connector the usual, male "needle" plug, or do I need an adaptor? the modulator as shipped only connects to a male type of connector. I saw references on this site to an EU-30 antenna adapter from installer.com when installing some modulators finally, is there an easy route to run the wire from my XM radio, under the dash, and into the antenna connection? Thanks!
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Hi folks, we bought an '04 CS two weeks ago, 45k miles, Porsche certified, with the 2 year, 100k warranty. two days after we got it, check engine light came on, several entry/drive items were not working right, and we had the "check headlight alignment" message. took back to the dealer for 3 days and they replaced a couple of modules and sensors. had it back two days, and the Bose system stopped working-no sound from any input. a couple of engine cycles later, and we had sound back, out of the blue. We purchased an '02 Boxster S in 2006, also certiied, and it has been rock solid. not a hint of a hiccup. I guess I am really feeling bit a little, wondering if I'm going to have nagging electrical problems forever......anyone else expereienced this? just wondering if I'm expecting too much for the Cayenne to be bug free, as it is the most over-engineered, technology-laden vehicle I have ever seen.. love driving the vehicle. we drove every lux. SUV, and nothing came close to the Cayenne experience........ thanks for your input.