phillipj

I just wanted to tell you that your engine bay has to be the most beautiful I have ever seen. Amazing.. Please don't take this wrong but have you ever though that with alll the money you have spent on that car that you could have built a GT3 RSR cup car? Just a thought. :lightbulb: Again my highest praise for your Turbo!!!! :clapping: Phillipj

Just wanted to add my own experience to this discussion. I have a 99 996. It has GIAC chip, Fabspeed mufflers, cold air kit and K & N filter. All of these after market mods were done by the previous owner (So I didn't pay for them.) After I got the car I fell for the hype of the headers and Cat bypass pipes for more claimed power. ( So I bought them.) Lets just say that the car ran so poorly (with the Headers and bypass pipes) that I complianed to loudly to the manufacturer that I got my money back! The car had lost it's low end torque and just wasn't fun to drive. I tried it with just the headers, just the bypass pipes and both combined. It sucked. So I took them off. On the good side....... The mufflers are awesome but it is just for the sound (which I love.) I have driven my friends bone stock 996 (and he my car.) We both agree that my car is quicker and has better throttle response. I agree with the other that the money required for all of these exhaust mods is not worth it and the HP claims are silly. I also agree to just enjoy the car and save your money for a GT3 or a Turbo if you want to go faster!! Just thought I would try to save some people some money. Or if you have to have them look for a guy who has spent his money on them and has to sell the car and take the loss on the mods. Phillipj

You need the dealer version PET with complete part location and the workshop manuals so you can do some services yourself. If you need these ( and its obvious you do.. email or PM me) Here is a sample to show you a bit from the 997 workshop manuals. Is the procedure the same for a 996? Thank you, Phillipj

Thanks, I covet your GT3 LOL! Phillipj

Thanks LVDell, I don't track the car so I will go with OEM all the way around. Appreciate your input. Phillipj

Rivanto, Thanks for the input! I hate rust. :censored: I will go with the OEM rotors. As for the sport pads.. I'll do the research and let you know what happens. This forum rocks. Thanks again, Phillipj

I'm about to replace the front brakes on my 99 996. After searching the net I found Porsche OEM and Zimmerman. Porsche's are a bit cheaper ($119 a piece compared to $130.) Should I go for the OEM replacements? Has anyone had experience with the Zimmerman rotors? Also, Should I go with the Pagid pads or the Porsche pads? Thanks for any input here. Phillipj

Regular Members can see a list of TSBs - but Contributing Members can view the TSBs online here. If you would like to find out more about the benefits of becoming a Contributing Member have a look at How to become a Contributing Member. Loren, I gladly donated to the site. How soon can I view the TSB's? Thanks, Phillipj

Thanks Izzy! Phillipj

Dear Loren How do I access the TSB's? Thanks, Phillip

Loren, How do I access the TSB's? Thanks. Phillipj

I have a 99 996 and have a really annoying rattle coming fom the dash area. :cursing: It only happens when I'm moving. It seems to come from the instrument cluster area. It's driving me nuts. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks, Phillipj

I have a 99 Carrera. 64.5k miles. Had for 2 years. No real problems. Have cam cover leak on drivers side but it really only weeps oil. Mechanic says I should fix at some point. Replaced starter and ignition switch assembly. Will need clutch at some point (still has original). Mechanic says it slips but I don't notice it. Have done Front and rear brakes and rotors. I love my car and it has been a lot more enjoyable and trouble free than the BMW's (M6, M3) or Mercedes I have owned. Hope I miss out on the "CATASTROPHIC ENGINE PAILURE" headline.. :clapping:

Fakafer, Have your mechanic take your VIN number and call Porsche and they will give him the code. Mine was lost as well and I had the same delimma. My mechanic called Porsche and got the code for me in 15 minutes. Send me a reply if you have any other questions. Remember you only have three tries to input the code or the unit will lock up. Then you will have to remove the unit and get the serial number to unlock it. I don't think you want to go there! :cursing: Hope this helps Phillipj

I'm currently in the process of ordering a new 997S. I'm seriously cosidering the X 50 option. Does anyone have a 997S with the X 50 package? Have they driven the Base 997S and can comment on the difference? I would appreciate any input. Thanks, Phillipj

It was the starter. It was making a horrible sound after turning over. The sound started to become more frequent. I had several of my mechanic friends listen to it (they have no agenda). They said that horrible spinning sound could creat havoc if I don't replace it. That sound can eventually break teeth off the gear and reqiure a major repair (thousands!). I took it to my mechanic (master Porsche mechanic for 17 years). He is always trying to save me money so I know he wasn't lying to me. $340.00 for a new starer (not rebuilt) plus labor plus he threw in a free oil change (less the oil) and fixed a few other minor things for me for no charge. I have had the car for 2 years and this is only the second repair (first was an ignition switch) and I drive it everyday. Hell of a lot more reliable than the BMW's and Benz's I have had. You can buy a new Bosch starter online for about $250. Porsche wants $570 for theirs and it is made by Bosch lol!! Hope this is of interest Take care Phillipj

Hi everyone, Just wanted to update the status of the Fabspeed catbypass pipes on my 99 996 after having them on for 2 weeks. I took them off this week (and relplaced the stock cats) and the car is back to it's normal quick and fast self. I talked to Joe at Fabspeed and told him that I had feedback from several reputable Porshe tuners who told me the car would never run properly without at least 200cell cats. He has agreed to let me return the pipes for a refund. Interestingly enough he also wanted me to forward him all of the mails and info from the tuners regarding trying to run without cats. Kudos for him. I love the mufflers from Fabspeed and the other goodies I have. He stands behind his products and that was a pleasant relief for me. :thumbup: For anyone considering putting on Catbypass pipes (from any manufacturer) don't do it!!! The car will run like crap and have no torque. Go for a quality chip and leave it at that. Just my experience but wanted to pass it along. Phillipj

My starter is dying.. :cursing: Has anyone had their starter replaced on a 996? How much is a fair price? My mechanic says that the manifold has to be removed to get to the starter. He is quoting me $300 for the part and $300 for labor. Does this seem fair? Thanks! Phillipj

How much are you asking for the units? Thank you, Phillipj

RedRidge Using hi-flow (200-cell / 100-cell) cats requires a re-map to work properly for exactly the same reasons as a cat bypass. You are changing the operating parameters of the engine. If it flows more exhaust gas more easily as rpms and throttle openings increase then the timing requirement will be different. This effect will be less pronounced with free-flow cats than with a bypass as the increase in flow will be less. Whilst a properly re-mapped ECU will still bring the most benefit, the timing difference required may be small enough that you may still see (an albeit smaller) power increase with the standard map. As an aside (and just to confuse everyone for a moment.....!) we also have no way of knowing how 'accurate' the standard mapping might be. If it is particularly conservative (normal with many manufacturers for reliabililty) the standard timings may even turn out to be closer to the optimal real-world requirement with free-flow cats / headers etc. at some points in the load vs rpm range. This cannot be relied on however and you will certainly get inconsistent results with a standard map and modified components. What you DO gain by using high-flow cats is that the post-cat O2 sensors are now back in the loop correctly. I would recommend using 200-cell cats for road as they don't boom and resonate like 100-cells can. Phillip A worthwhile tuner will offer a range of packages that include known mods and an ECU to match. AFAIK, Fabspeed offers a range of modded ECUs to match their products. Please post the results back - it will be interesting to see how you get along. Ian Thanks Ian. I will let everyone know what I find out. As of now the pipes are going back to Fabspeed. Phillipj Just an update, I have not been getting any ECU light which is strange. :( :huh: I'm going to take the car to my mechanic and have him hook up the PST 2 to see if any codes show up. I'll let everyone know what I find out. Thanks for all the input I really appreciate it. Phillipj

RedRidge Using hi-flow (200-cell / 100-cell) cats requires a re-map to work properly for exactly the same reasons as a cat bypass. You are changing the operating parameters of the engine. If it flows more exhaust gas more easily as rpms and throttle openings increase then the timing requirement will be different. This effect will be less pronounced with free-flow cats than with a bypass as the increase in flow will be less. Whilst a properly re-mapped ECU will still bring the most benefit, the timing difference required may be small enough that you may still see (an albeit smaller) power increase with the standard map. As an aside (and just to confuse everyone for a moment.....!) we also have no way of knowing how 'accurate' the standard mapping might be. If it is particularly conservative (normal with many manufacturers for reliabililty) the standard timings may even turn out to be closer to the optimal real-world requirement with free-flow cats / headers etc. at some points in the load vs rpm range. This cannot be relied on however and you will certainly get inconsistent results with a standard map and modified components. What you DO gain by using high-flow cats is that the post-cat O2 sensors are now back in the loop correctly. I would recommend using 200-cell cats for road as they don't boom and resonate like 100-cells can. Phillip A worthwhile tuner will offer a range of packages that include known mods and an ECU to match. AFAIK, Fabspeed offers a range of modded ECUs to match their products. Please post the results back - it will be interesting to see how you get along. Ian Thanks Ian. I will let everyone know what I find out. As of now the pipes are going back to Fabspeed. Phillipj

Phillip Removing the Cats has two major effects. First one is that the post-cat O2 (lambda) sensors are going to detect 'unclean' emissions - they usually are subjected to exhaust gasses that have been through the Cats and are 'cleaned' - this may well cause the ECU to go into some sort of safe mode due to it thinking your cats have failed. Second (and assuming that the first problem is properly resolved) removing the cats reduces exhaust back pressure as the volume of exhaust gas increases. (Even inefficient, standard cats will flow a small volume of gas without creating back pressure, the pressure starts to build as throttle/revs rise). This change in back presure will affect the scavenging of the combustion chamber (i.e. more exhaust gas will escape on each exhaust stroke) allowing more new mixture in. This is good and will theoretically allow more HP to be produced. HOWEVER....... You now have an engine that is breathing and burning more effciently. This change in the engine's operating parameters means that your standard ignition timing will be way out. Ignition timing at full throttle depends, amongst other things, on the volumetric and burn efficiency of the engine at any given point in the rpm range. Typically an engine that is breathing and burning better requires a SHORTER ignition advance curve. That means the ignition needs to happen later in the cycle - yes, LESS timing. This is simply because a more efficient, cleaner burn happens more quickly and therefore needs to be ignited later for the maximum pressure to be applied to the piston at the optimal point on the power stroke. The volumetric / timing-requirement differences made by removing the cats will not be huge (compared to say, gas-flowed heads and new cams) but could require a timing compenstation of up to 5 degrees or so. Using the standard mapping, you would notice this as slightly reduced power - and inconsistently so across the rev band. If you are noticing big power drops then there is something in the ECU shutting down / gong into safe mode because it senses cat failure. In short then - if you make mods, you must have a re-mapped ECU designed to take account of EXACTLY those changes you have made. Mod + matching-ECU are an inseparable pair. Any mod renders the standard engine mapping wrong to a greater of lesser degree. And if you change something that takes a sensor out of its operating range, the sensor will need to be taken out of the loop in the ECU too - either deactivated or given a new set of expected values so it doesn't interfere with correct operation. Hope this helps Ian Dear Ian, Thank you so much for the information. It makes a lot of sense. So what am I talking about here? Firstly, who can re- map my ECU? Secondly, Is it worth it? (Since I will have to re -map the ECU again if I take them off.) Thanks again, Phillipj

Just wanted to pass some informatiion to anyone whos is thinking about the cat bypass pipes. My car has the Fabspeed chip, mufflers and cold air intake. The Cat pipes are supposed to add some HP and torque but on my car they add neither. The car is not as quick as it was without the pipes. I like a loud car but the sound is really obnoxious. It has a terrible resonance around 4000 rpm. I have tracked the car before the bypass pipes and it is much quicker (without the pipes) and the power is more usable. With pipes it seems to maybe have a bit more power at the top end but no grunt coming out of corners. :cursing: This is my first Porsche. Does the ECU have to be remapped without the cats? This is not a shot at Fabspeed. I love all the other products I have bought from them. Any insight from anyone out there would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Phillipj

Racerx, I'm not really sure what total gains I have made by all the changes because I have never dyno'd the car. When I bought it it already had the mufflers, chip and cold ar intake. The bypass pipes do make the car illegal in Cailfornia. Fabsped claims +8hp for the bypass pipes. I do know that I have driven the base 997 Carrera and my car is faster. It seems a bit quicker but the sound is really harsh. You can crawl around without getting too much attention but when you get on it you will definetly get some head turns. I buzzed the Porsche dealership yesterday and all of the sales people outside looked at me like"what the hell was that!" It sounds quite nasty. (like a cup car) Funny thing is I was really concerned about the sound so I took my wife for a drive... She thought it sounded fine when I was at slow speed. So I said "Okay let me really get on it and see what you think". Went through the gears at about 6000 rpm and was ready for her reaction to hate it. She looked at me and said "it sounds awesome! I couldn't believe it... Go figure <_< If you want a good idea what the sound is like go to the Fabspeed site and take a look at the "muffler bypass pipes video" Here is the link http://www.fabspeed.com/996_GT3.html The video link is toward the bottom of the page. Although the car does run better and is a bit quicker I really miss the fabulous sound of the Fabspeed mufflers. Seriously think about this if you are going to do it. In retrospect the headers may be a better choice (although a bit pricey). Performace gains without compromising the sound. I will try to post a video asap. Thanks for the compliment on my car..it's my baby Take care Phillipj

Just had the Cat Bypass pipes installed last night on my 99 996. I have the Fabspeed mufflers, chip and cold air kit. It was raining when I drove it home so I couldnt really test it too much. It's quite loud and seems a bit more responsive. I will see today (it's sunny) if there is any noticable performance gains. I will go to my favorite "go fast" places If anyone is thinking about doing this themselves I watched my mechanic do the install. It is not such a "a simple bolt on procedure" (at least not as easy as I thought it would be.) Took an hour with two guys. If you want to do it yourself you will need the special tool to remove the o2 sensors. I will try to post a video of the sound later. Definetly not for everyone lol! :clapping: Phillipj