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Rom

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Everything posted by Rom

  1. Rom
    Actually, that is my domain - but I got that TSB ages ago, but not from RennTech... I just put it up today so that I could link to it in this post, for informational reasons - it hasn't ever been linked from anywhere else. I apologise again if that TSB, somehow, actually is from here - although as far as I can tell the author was Hans Reisel who is the Technical Publications Director for Porsche Cars North America. Thanks! Shash
  2. Rom
    I'm actually amazed that Porsche did not colour-code them from day one. The black really doesn't look good (well, unless you have a black Boxster, that is!). Anyway, I may just get the painted ones then *sigh*... Never had this problem in the UK... *mumbles* ;) Thanks! Shash
  3. Rom
    Um, Loren - I didn't take that PDF from Renntech's TSB section. I got that from my own sources (in fact, I've never even been to the RennTech TSB section as I am not even allowed to access it!)... Apologies for any confusion, but I definitely did not take that without permission. I note now that I may have given info that only "paid" members are meant to see, and I apologise. However, marking me for taking something "without permission" upsets me a little, as I did no such thing! Thanks Shash
  4. Rom
    Ahh, so they cut those holes out when fitting the bumper?? No wonder the holes weren't cut straight... Does anyone know WHY the US cars have those blocks? Is it a DoT requirement, or is Porsche just trying to protect the cars better? I don't wanna get fined for not having it on! I can't find any articles dealing with it here... Thanks! Shash
  5. Rom
    Um, as far as I know, the MB 229.5 specification is a Mercedes-Benz standard and has nothing to do with Porsche. The following PDF details all oils that are Porsche-approved (by brand AND type!), as of the end of 2005... I don't think this has been superceded yet? According to this, Porsche only approve 0W-40 and 5W-40 (for below and above -12F, respectively), and not 15W-50 at all! Thanks! Shash (Edit - URL removed as that TSB was taken from RennTech.org's TSB section without permission - Loren)
  6. Rom
    Yea... I thought about painting them, but I think it looks sooo much better without them at all (although painting makes a HUGE difference!)... Maybe if I can find a second-hand euro bumper, although shipping would likely cost a fortune... Alternatively I could remove the bumper, remove the brackets, glue in some ABS plastic into the holes on the bumper, fill in the gaps with filler, sand it down to a smooth even surface, prime it, then paint & blend it in... That should cost a lot less since I'll be doing most of the work myself, and I get the look I want without spending hundreds on a euro bumper that's difficult to get in the US. The only problem would be the tow-point which is right there on the euro version (and is still there on the US version, just covered by those ugly blocks, although there's nothing behind it - only the metal bumper!) I need to think about this some more ;) Thanks! Shash
  7. Rom
    Hi all, It seems that the US Boxsters have those ugly bumper blocks (next to the license plate) on the back which the European cars don't have... I removed one of them to see what was behind, and it looks like they've welded a block of metal on, and cut a hole in the bumper, to screw that thing to it... I can only assume these blocks exist because of the higher chance of rear-end accidents in the US. My questions is, are these blocks there for legal reasons (i.e. it's illiegal to remove them), or could I remove it (and replace the bumper because of the big holes they cut out)? Alternatively I might paint them to the body colour, but I'd prefer to get rid of them... Thanks! Shash
  8. Rom
    I got the 225/45ZR17's, and I have noticed a little more tramlining, but the front-end grip is a lot better. I still need have the geometry re-aligned cuz I believe it's out, but so far I think the 225's are fine. The 225's will definitely reduce any potential understeer - going around a corner now feels a lot stronger... Unfortunately you can definitely feel the crappy US road surface more now :/ Hopefully track performance on some nice and smooth tarmac will be great :) Thanks! Shash
  9. Rom
    You could also contribute $25 to the site ;) (I know, I know, I need to as well, which I will be soon!) ;) Thanks! Shash
  10. Rom
    Um, you said that that the problem symptoms were fixed...? The code will not clear itself unless the code is cleared manually using an OBD-II tool. You need to get the code cleared, drive a while (up to a few weeks), then check the codes again to make sure the code hasn't come back. Thanks Shash
  11. Rom
    Thanks guys! Shash
  12. Rom
    Hi all, Anyone know if a good place in the Bay Area to get alloy wheels refurbished / re-painted? I had a slight accident with one of my wheels and some brake cleaner, and it managed to eat some of the paint before I could get it off! Thanks! Shash
  13. Rom
    Hi all, I'm about to change my tires, but was wondering, out of interest, if anyone had tried changing the OEM 205/50-17 (front) tyre to a different size (e.g. 225/45-17)? The alloy is a 7Jx17 size alloy which should take both sizes fine (although can this be confirmed - some OEM wheels cannot take the additional width), and it results in only a 0.2MPH difference at 60MPH, but I'm interested in knowing handling effects? Also, would the 225 width rub against the arch? That could be solved by spacers, which may (if only very slightly) have a side-effect of improving handling by giving the car a slightly wider track. Of course, spacers would add additional stress to the suspension components by adding extra leverage, but I've used spacers in the past (on an Audi TT) and not had any problems. The profile doesn't really change, but the width of the tyre is greater (by 20mm) thus putting more rubber on the ground. Should keep the front planted a bit more, minimising any potential understeer. There are, of course, some trade-offs i.e. slightly heavier steering and maybe a little more NVH, but does the handling actually suffer at all? Also, it seems that 225/45ZR17 is a more common size than 205/50ZR17. Comments are appreciated! Thanks! Shash Okay, a bit late, but I have found a few other posts concerning this, and it seems that it's fairly common practice! Still, any comments are still appreciated! Thanks! Shash
  14. Rom
    Yep.
  15. Rom
    Check the fuses on the drivers side footwell. There are two fuses for power windows - one may have blown. I believe it's fuses C3 and D1. Look here for a diagram: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...st=entry42988 Alternatively the power window control module may have died - but check the fuses first! Thanks! Shash
  16. Rom
    I seriously doubt it... The Boxster uses a paper filter inside a hard plastic casing with a threaded outside section. A "normal" oil filter essentially uses a metal thread on the centre section right at the middle to secure the filter. Therefore on a normal filter, when you grab the outside you're getting a lot more torque on to the centre section threads, which have smaller threads, and is far more rigid... On the Boxster you get virtually no help, and the thicker threads are a lot tighter. On my Boxster is was impossible to use my hand - I had to use a tool. However, I'm not sure if maybe it's looser on other Boxsters, but I doubt it. Also, you might be a 300lb body-builder with extreme strength, so you might not have a problem using your hands ;) I used to use my hands on every other car with a normal filter and had no problems either - but, as I said, the Boxster was impossible! Thanks! Shash
  17. Rom
    Have the car examined, find out what he did, and claim from him the labour to get it fixed (you can threaten to take him to the Small Claims court if he doesn't sort it out). Don't let him touch the car again! Thanks! Shash
  18. Rom
    If you're not using their "Race" springs, you can get away without changing the shocks. Generally you should change both as a set as the harder spring rate could cause accelerated wear on the shocks. Bilstein's lowest range shocks will cost you around $1234.00 from Bilstein direct (www.bilstein.com), which isn't too bad for a set of performance shocks. The PSS9 is probably quite a bit more, but it's a complete kit. You should be able to get the Bilstein shocks aftermarket for a bit less. If you're not using Race H&R springs, then I'd personally suggest putting them on now, but bugeting for new shocks in the very near future (3-6months, assuming your OE shocks are in good condition). Thanks! Shash
  19. Rom
    Not sure if you've resolved this, but this is what I'd do... Identify where the sound is coming from, jack that side of the car up, pull the wheel off, and inspect closely the caliper and pad. Turn the rotor slowly by hand and see if you can feel/hear the rubbing (if it's the rear wheel, you have to have your handbrake off, the car in neutral and possibly both rear wheels in the air). If you can't see anything obvious, remove the caliper - it's just two bolts with 10mm HEX KEY (like an Allen key). I've never removed the calipers with the pads on, so I'm not sure if you can. I'd suggest you remove the pads first anyway: * Remove the little pin on the retaining rod with a flat-head screwdriver * Punch out the retaining rod * Remove the spring clip (it just falls out after the retaining rod is out) * Remove the pads (you may need to push them in a bit if they are too tight against the rotors - I use a small vice) There are a few DIY guides on how to do the process, with pics, so do a forum search! Thanks! Shash
  20. Rom
    Slightly off-topic, but did you ever get yours fixed, Jeff? The offer is still open if you want me to take a look at it... It might be repairable, assuming all the mechanical parts are still okay. Thanks! Shash
  21. Rom
    Has Akkurat closed down...? Their website doesn't seem to work anymore - even Google's cache (which was retrieved on July 15th 2005) doesn't work... Thanks! Shash Nevermind, I saw in another thread that they have indeed closed down. Thanks! Shash
  22. Rom
    So basically the '351' for the S is cheaper than the 352 for the non-S... Kinda confusing since the Pelican description specifically says front, Boxster, 1997-04 ('97 can't be an S tho). Would make sense for the S one to be more expensive (since it's bigger), but that's reverse too... Thanks! Shash
  23. Rom
    Just as I thought... FYI, here's where I saw it at two different prices: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._pg3.htm#item10 Front is $25.25, Rear is $49.25! Funnily enough the description states that the Front kit works on the Rear of the 996 Turbo, 2001-04! The part number of the cheaper one is different though... If P/N 996-352-959-01 is for the Boxster, what is P/N 996-351-959-01? If the latter P/N works fine front/rear, then that's a good saving of $100 on a set of 4... Thanks! Shash
  24. Rom
    That's what I was planning on doing too... But it would be interesting to know what the differences were for them to charge 2x the amount for virtually identical parts. Thanks! Shash
  25. Rom
    Um, Jeff - I was actually talking about the retaining kit - i.e. the spring, rod and pin. The front and rear look very similar but for some reason Pelican (and others) sell the rear ones for virtually double the price ($25 vs $49, approx). I wanted to know what differences make them worth twice as much. Thanks! Shash
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