UTRacerX9

The aluminum pipes are a bright silver color, what you're seeing in the mirror doesn't look like it. That's not to say you don't have them, but you simply can't tell from where you've got the mirror placed. I didn't replace the gasket when I did it, as the old one was still looking pretty good and pliable. There is a write up of how to remove the manifold on this site I believe, it's not that difficult of a job. If all you're planning on doing is checking to see if you have the aluminum pipes, you don't even have to mess with the fuel lines, you can just loosen all the manifold bolts and then lift the front end of it up, and that will give you a clear line of sight to the pipes.

No experience with aftermarket shocks for the Cayenne yet, but Bilstein is well known for their PSS9/PSS10 systems for the 911. I wouldn't hesitate to get Bilstein shocks for my Cayenne.

Too hard to tell from that pic you've posted. Honestly, removing the intake manifold isn't that difficult once you do it a couple of times. (I cut a hard air line that made it considerably easier when removing the rear bolts, and now use a silicone hose on that spot.) If the plastic shrouds are removed from the sides and rear of the engine, I can get the manifold off in about 15 min. I'd recommend taking off the manifold and getting a good look at your engine. After you do it, you'll have a much better understanding of what goes where, and you'll see how easy it is to do a spark plug change, change camshaft sensors, etc. Good luck.

This is actually the first time I've ever had a problem with buying a generic part vs an OEM one. I suppose it was bound to happen after all these years, just sucks that it was a part that takes so much effort to get to. Oh well, problem solved!

Received the new Bosch sensor yesterday, and installed it today. This sensor was an exact match to the factory sensor, all the markings, etc were the same. The previous sensor I bought was not. Plugged it in, put the car back together and everything works fine. Not sure what a dealer would have charged for swapping it out, I've read that it's a 7 hour job, but this is something that isn't difficult to do at all, just takes some time. Car is running fine with no check engine light now. Part number of the Bosch sensor is 996-606-106-02.

If they didn't make it then I have no idea. It came in a plain brown cardboard box with no labeling, and the sensor itself just has a part number on it.

Beck Arnley.

Just posting an update to this. To replace the camshaft sensors, it's basically the same procedure that you'd need to do for replacing the plastic coolant pipes... the intake manifold has to be removed. Once it's removed, the sensor is just held in place by one bolt towards the back of both banks, very easy to get to. I removed the sensor, buttoned everything back up, and started the car. Car started up, ran for about 5-10 seconds, then died. Would not start again. Had to remove the intake manifold again (making it my third time doing it) and put the old sensor back in. Put it all back together again, turned the key, and the car starts up just fine, but still had the CEL. So, the sensor I bought was DOA, most likely. Tore it apart yet again, but this time to swap sensors between bank 1 and 2. Put it back together, and hooked up the Durametric. Sure enough, my error code in the Durametric changed from bank 1 to 2, so it's obviously a sensor problem. Sent the dead sensor back, and spent twice as much to get a Bosch sensor. Should be here Wednesday, can hopefully get it installed on the weekend. I made one modification to the car that has made this job a ton easier. At the very back of the engine, on bank 1, there are several hard plastic air lines. One of them goes all the way to the front of the car and plugs into the bottom of the Y pipe attached to the throttle body. That hose has a curved kink to it near where it connects to an air filter near the firewall. It also makes removing the fuel rail and intake manifold screw back there a real PITA. So, I cut this hose near where it connects at the back of the engine. I happened to have some spare silicon tubing laying around, an ID of .5 fits perfectly in covering the now split hose, and it can be removed easily when needing to get those two screws out. Why Porsche routed that line that way, I'll never know, it's completely unnecessary. I may take a pic and post it if anyone wants to see it, makes taking the intake manifold off a breeze. Anyway, once the sensor is here I'll be doing it yet again, hopefully for the last time!

I think I'd try to raise it without the durametric hooked up at all at this point then. See if you can get it operating normally, turn on and turn off the car a few times, go for a few drives, then try the durametric again.

Have you tried raising the suspension back up with the switch to get it back to normal? I'd play with the switch in each position for a bit, see if it levels out, then go back to the durametric.

How many miles are on the car? Just curious as to how long it lasted before failing.

Nor mine. Quite a few posts on the web for several models of Porsche that have said this. I tried it, but I wasn't one of the lucky ones I guess. Found the sensor online for $65. Should be here in a few days, then I'll start the install, looks to be pretty straightforward, just a bit hard to get to. I'll post up afterwards how difficult it was, no sense paying the dealer for something that can be done by an enthusiast at home.

I've reset it, but unfortunately it came back. From a few other threads, I read that some other people have had the same code due to dirty oil. After changing, the CEL didn't come back, but I guess I won't be as lucky. Yep, my car is running fine as well, but I don't want that light either since my wife drives the vehicle sometimes, I don't want her to get used to lights on the dash and ignoring them! This thread suggests that the labor isn't bad at all, so I think I'll check the service manual to see what is involved with changing it out.

Well, the CEL came on last week. Hooked up the Durametric, and got the code C1801, which doesn't correspond to anything I've been able to find, but what it said was: "Camshaft position sensor A, bank 1 or single sensor, value below limit, test conditions not completed, fault not currently active and causing a DTC light" Read a few posts here and there that suggested changing the oil may help, (it was due anyway) so did that, cleared the code, and started driving again. After about 40 miles it came back on, this time with code C1601, but saying the same thing. Any clues on what this is and how to fix? Is it something I can DIY or should I take it to the dealer? Thanks for any advice.

That's unfortunate. Only other avenue would be to see if you could find a distributor that is willing to do a group buy at a lower price, but their price is probably higher than going through Durametric directly, so it might not matter.

If you talk to them and can set up a group buy for a discount, I would probably sign up for the Pro version.

Mine rarely goes above the half way mark, usually it's just a tick to the left of it, and I had 60 days of 100+ temperatures here in TX this year. Only time I really ever saw it creep a decent amount toward the 3/4 mark was when my wife had the car running in the garage for a few minutes with the garage door open and it was about 110 degrees outside, and the garage just had no airflow.

I haven't studied up on a possible cause for this, but I have the same issue. My CS starts just fine the first time. Drive it around a bit, park it... if I attempt to start it back up within about 5 minutes though, it will take a few seconds of cranking before it fires up. To be honest, it didn't bother me, as I have a sportscar that does the exact same thing, and is actually designed to do that. Some sort of mechanism to make cold start easier, but it isn't active if the engine is already warmed up.

It will also do it if you are on an incline. I always manually switch it to M2 when rolling down the driveway.

" The brake job is GRAVY " What does this mean? He means it's easy to do.

Which Cayenne do you have? An S? I'm also looking into getting a different pad set, I washed the car, then two days later I accidentally brushed my leg against the wheel/tire and got a ton of brake dust on my pants, far more than what I'd have expected to see.

That Mobil 1 rep isn't exactly lying, but... :) Yes, technically any group III oil can be considered synthetic, at least by US standards. However, they does not perform as well as a full synthetic like Redline, AMSoil, or Motul. (From what I've heard, RP is not a true synthetic either, it is like Mobil 1 here.) At any rate, a friend of mine did an OA on RP a few years ago, while it performed adequately for 3k mile use, it did show considerably more wear and viscosity break down than his Redline analysis. I used to run Mobil 1 exclusively until they changed the formula here, then I switched to Redline. Don't get me wrong, Mobil 1 is still a good oil... but you aren't really getting what you pay for anymore with it.

Agreed, and well said. One reason that Porsche recommends Mobil 1 is that the Euro blend is actually a full synthetic. The Mobil 1 we can buy here in the states actually isn't a full synthetic, it's made with some Group III oil mixed in (but it sounds like you probably know that already.) They changed it a few years back for the US market. Redline consistently performs better than most oils, it's a great choice for pretty much any fluid need. I'd also recommend AMSoil, though it's a bit harder to come by in most places, and one of the few other true synthetics left.

Mine were already replaced when I bought it, no idea if it was preventative or failure, but I assume it was from failure since the car only had 49k on it, and it's been driven exclusively in hot southern states.

I have an S with the manual dimmer but with rain sensor, so I would only need the auto mirror?