Dharn55

I am in the process of installing some 997 memory seats in a 996 with memory. I used the Pelican article on by passing the memory module/computer by rewiring the seat switches and have all that done and working with the exception of the lumbar support. Another owner started this on 6speedonline but never completed it. I am about halfway on this but need some wiring diagrams, specifically for the seats. Again, I am going to by-pass the computers and if I have diagrams that show the wiring in the seats themselves, I think I can figure this out. I have already figured out how the switches function but need to figure out the wiring in the seats. If anyone has these diagrams it would be greatly appreciated.

Those will hit the first time you go over a major bump and then you will have body and/or tire damage.There are lots of Turbo Twists out there, check eBay and other sources.

Cam position sensor will make it run poorly but won't keep it from starting. The crank position sensor will keep,it from starting.

Hey, I think that is my picture (-: But when this happened it was making a loud clacking noise, not a groan. The picture shows the top mount for a C4, which is quite different from a C2. in the last couple of years my car started making unbelievable groaning noises when the steering wheel was turned. Replaced the front lower control arms and the noise is gone.

The control module had failed. Used one will be here tomorrow morning!

Hobbes. Tried this but it did not help. I have now checked all 9 microswitches and reset/ checked both petentiometers and reset the latches at the windshield. Still no luck. I had a voltage meter on the leads to the hydraulic pump and there is no power being fed to it. Once the clamshell is open and the latch is open I hear a click and the in a few seconds another click, but no power to the pump. My next shot is to switch out the cab control module with one from a friends car that we know works. If that fixes the problem I will know the control module failed. If not I am not sure what I will try next.

On my 2000 C4 Cab the top stopped opening yesterday. The clam shell opens and the latch at the top of the windshield opens and then it stops. You can hear some clicking. When I run my Durametric it shows a fault code, 5 - maximum time exceeded. If I clear this error it re-appears. A little background on this. Yesterday morning I used the RemoteTop on the car to open the top and it opened about 6" then stopped. This had happened a couple of time recently. When I got in the car and used the dash switch the top opened all the way. We went to the farmers market and used the dash switch, with the one touch option using a SmartTop module and it closed fine. When we returned to the car and used the RemoteTop/Key to open the top only the clam shell raised the the windshield latch opened and nothing else. then tried the dash switch with the same result. Top closes all the way with the key or dash switch but does not open. This car has a SmartTop that was installed 10+ years ago. Also a RemoteTop that was installed 6+ years ago, the original style without the separate power feed, which failed about 2 years ago and was repalced with the newer version that has the separate power feed. This worked well until a month or so ago when the top started opening almost all the way and would stop just short of closing the clam shell. I spoke to Mods4cars and they had me reset the timing by starting the opening procedure, pushing the windshield micro switch withing 8 seconds of starting, and pushing it again one the top was down and before the windows raised. This seemed to fix the problem. Also the top was replaced 3 months ago but has worked fine up until now. I tried to recalibrate the the top with the Durametric and nothing would happen, I had tried this in the past. I removed the RemoteTop and the problem still existed. Then I removed the SmartTop module and the problem still existed. But here is something interesting, when the SmartTop module was removed the Durametric recalibration worked!! AT least it started, but stopped at the same point, Clam Shell Open and windshield patch open, then stops. Same error code shows up, max time exceeded. There are no error codes for bad micro switches. I have check the oil level, it was slightly low, and refilled it. No leaks or anything else. Checked micro switches for the clam Shell, top mounted latch assembly, and windshield assembly and all seem to work, although I have not ohmed them. It seems that once the clam shell is opened and the latch opens, there is come clicking but the pump doe not start and the top does not move. Looking for suggestions on what to look for. I know this is a little long but I wanted to give as much information as possible. Thanks

In the 16 years I have had my cab I have cleaned the drains for the cab top 3-4 times, but this spring the drivers side got blocked again. After a very heavy rain my locking system was going crazy with the car just sitting there. I opened it with a key and found almost an inch of water under the seat on the driver side. I took out the unit, opened it up and dried it out. Then sprayed some electronics cleaner on it. Unit works fine. However I have been trying to dry out the carpet for over a week now and the closed cell backing is still damp. Under the carpet there are recesses in the body and if the carpet is wet then these are probably filled with water. I shop vacuumed out about a gallon of water from these areas. So if the carpet is damp you need to pull it up at least partially and check these areas. And getting the carpet and foam dried out is a real challenge. Most of the area under the seat and behind it is now dry, but in front of the seat the foam is still damp. I am trying to avoid taking the entire carpet out of the car as it is a major hassle. But the bottom line is it is worth it to take out the locking computer and try to dry it out. And check the drains on both side on a regular basis!

I have had a Durametric for over 10 years. Bought one of the first ones made and upgraded the cable a few years ago. It is a good system. Is it as good as the original Porsche systems? No, but it works great for a fraction of the cost. The new Porsche system leases for $15,000+/yr.

If you have a C4 shop around for the top mounts. You see them all the time for $250-$300@+. I found them a few years back for closer to $150@, OEM, at Sunset I think. My buddy just paid $300@ each at his Indy.

OK, I will put in my $.02 worth. Lifetime coolant is a bad idea, unless you define it as the lifetime of the engine (i.e. When the engine fails die to bad coolant). When my car was made (2000) Porsche recommended oil changes every 15,000 miles, what a joke! Do you know anyone who recommends going 15,000 miles on these cars today? When I had my intermix/cracked head back in 2008 I drained and flushed the entire coolant system several times to remove the contamination. Since then I have run PEAK coolant and have had no problems whatsoever. If you want to pay the extra for the Porsche coolant be my guest, but a coolant rated for an aluminum engine will work just as well. This is somewhat like buying only Porsche OEM parts. For many of these it is just a label on the box, but the exact same parts are available from the same manufacturer without the Porsche mark on the box at a lower cost.

PM me your email and I will give you a DropBox link with a bunch of info on the difference between the VarioCam and VarioCamPlus systems. Theu are quire different. In a nut shell the VarioCam system is a simple advance of the intake cam at a certain RPM and then releases the advance at a higher RPM, and vice versa. The amount of advance is fixed. The VarioCamPlus system has a variable amount of advance and can change the lift of the intake valves. So the control system is entirely different. And the Engine Management System is entirely different between the two to control this, and the later system is CanBus. So it is very complex to install the later system in an earlier car and get it to function properly. Lots of horror stories from people who have tried this.

Yes. The electrical connector is a simple slip connection. The two fuel line just take a 15mm wrench to losses. Not all cars have this fuel cooler.