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pk2

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Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    Mikes right. Anecdotal evedence statistically just means very little. If we were around here 10 yrs ago we would be talking about IMS failures on cars with 10,20, 30k on them. I to don't quite buy the " drive like a deamond" theroy. There is just isn't anything ressembling a controlled study to come up with any statisticaly meanigfull conclusions about this issue. Regards, PK
  2. pk2
    If you can read a wiring diagram, theres an early version of the whole factory Boxster manual complete with all wiring diagrams floating around the net or on ebay for $5. Pain to figure out but it might be worth irt in the long run. Regards, PK
  3. pk2
    I looked into that, Trouble is at my store, a short timer is a bout $50 and is pretty sloppy at when it gets down to milli seconds. Gotta be somthing on a microchip out there but I havent't found it. Regards, PK
  4. pk2
    Taking the the thing apart is pretty easy but, being a porsche, theres some kind curve ball in there,I forget what. If you take it apart the prob. should be obviouse ' Everybody will have the bushing that hold entire "floating horn/air bag" assemmbly wear out. That usually manifests itself in a really sloppy horn, just touch it and the horn blows. If that the the weak link, theres at least 15 DYI's around here. They range alot in complexity. PK
  5. pk2
    Looks like a fst old ground strap which could indeed effect the heating. Follow the cors up and see what it is spliced into. PK
  6. pk2
    Did they not drive it after they "fixed it"? Assumming they didn't, you might do well to get a second opinion. Probably all they did was check all the linkages, I can think of much short of a bum 1st gear. Somtimes bad stychros can will do that. A bad 1st gear sychro though should make it grind like 'ell" if you down-shift into it. Regards, PK
  7. pk2
    He probably no longer has his original radio head in. P.
  8. pk2
    Try Star recycling in Sacramento (If there still around), they are allot cheaper than L.A. D. I recall buying the whole door innards for some 100+, window mechanism, door-lock mech. etc. I never have bought parts from the dealer. Also, allot of indie shops have there own scorses for parts to. Also, take the thing out first and see if you can't fix it. You have to takee it out anyway. Regards, PK
  9. pk2
    Thank ARModen It was awhile ago that I crawled through the thing with a wiring diagram. I don't think I would have overlooked a couple of micro switches. Come to think of it, there was something weird about the motor. One thing is it was very un-Porche-like in that there is just a two single, live wires going to the motor and they simply switches polarity to reverse direction. The problem is once the master/activator "in wire" to the "up" relay is activated, it trips the solenoid and up goes the spoiler but, that hot, activator lead to the solenoid never stops juicing, the power just keeps going. You have to turn the car off in order stop power to that relay. Turning the ignition back on, the power to the "up" relay has gone off, then and only then can you activate the "Down" relay and it behaves as it should(impossible to activate both solenoids at one time). I may have come to the conclusion that the micro switches were inside the motor, don't recall. Frankly with the motor powered up continuously like that though, I don't get why in hasn't burnt out the motor or at least blown a fuse Hope that makes some sense, Thanks for your input, Regards, PK
  10. pk2
    Thanks for the rely. Yes i did some searches some time ago. nothing particularly applicable at the time but it certain is worth another try. I did trace the wiring as thoroughly as I could. I know exactly what the problem is and whats happening, I just never found a problem in the circuitry. Anyway I just popped into this thread to see if there was any over lap I don't think it has a mod because it then everything was working, I never saw the light. Then again maybe the light wasn't working when everythimg else was. I'll have to look into it. Regards, pk
  11. pk2
    Not hijackin but when is that light supposed to be on and what is it supposed to be telling us? Mine comes on at about 70 and stays on till the next day. The motor for the spoiler works fine. Circuitry miff's me. It's very simple but once apon a time I measured the voltages. When it went up, the voltage on the motor never quit, even once it's at the end of it's travel. Only turning the car off stop it's attemps. I don't know why it hasn't burned out or blown a fuse. Regards, PK
  12. pk2
    For bang for your buck, the 5 buck PDF Ebay cd's for wiring might do ya. The trick is you have to piece litle 8x10 printouts. tape them together, then trace the pertinent circuts at issue with colored pencils at a great but a bit of a pain Loren has indicated there are sifgnifcat updates since this manual, however, I have not found any hickups in the wireing diagrams. Regards, PK
  13. pk2
    Speaking of the throttle body, that car should have a cable accelerator. I assume your mechanic checked to make sure cable or or butterfly valve aren't binding sticking a bit...easy to check before you start scrubbing. A loose driver side carpet mat can always throw you for a loop. If this and the above post don't straighten you up, your probably talking about something "electro", not mechanical which means your unlikely to find it without tethering it to a PS2 (or Durametric) Regards, PK
  14. pk2
    People used to add "noise suppressors" to radios to mask some deeper problem. I forget how they worked. If is looks kludgey, investigate. Also, Here in the arid Southwest it's rained more in the last week than it has in the last 8 yrs. Both my Box, My wifes Lexus are all caddy-wampums. The ole' BMW cruiser got an ominous light blinking on the dash. If your in arid climate with sneak rainstorms nothing like Dry rubber and sneak storms. Also, if it has been wet, check your drains, Either side of the battery, either side of the engine compartment. Regards, PK Savior dads time, eye's and ears wide-open. I once had an old on-call particle-physics dude to bail me out.
  15. pk2
    Kraftwerk, Your bumper is not really your prob. If they,re $200, good. Radiator: fins appear to be flattened, you can fix it if your handy. Other wise $300 Hoods popped: if the result of the accident?. your inner-inner fender may be pushed in. but the hood dosn't look twisted Plastic inner liner: gone, not to expensive. Lots of little bolts and… berries $100 Head light: pretty much gone $150 ??? U-channel bumper (inner): may be bent but more importantly, It has probably telegraphed force into its own mounting brackets and possibly mounting points on structure and thus the whole front end probably got a nudging sideways a bit. Bumpers are designed for front end hit, Not much more. Suspension; If it blew your tire, probably tweaked the suspension more. (part of frame straightening $???) Hood doesn’t look twisted a bit. If it is, Think tarzan Frame straightener.: It most likely wants to spend time on a one. It’s a real trick to dial these in straght Parts: None are going to effect the performance, the looks yes. I’d go all GOOD junk yard stuff. Good luck
  16. pk2
    If your trying to raise your octane ethanol is extremely corrosive and not the best. Many people avoid it like the plague and seek out pure gasoline. Personally I use toluene to avoid potential detonation but I have some unique circumstances. You can also throw a couple of gallons of 100 oct. It's debatable how real 100 oct is. If you have "pinging" in the traditional sencs of the word, that means detonation and should never occur. If you got it and can't figure out why, get it to a shop. Could be as simple as the knock sensor. Usually under load is a syncopative ping like popcorn. Valves will have a rattle sometimes on cold start up, don't worry about that. That will be obvious because it is in direct time with engine rpms. regards, pk
  17. pk2
    I'm sure you can buy it online. P.
  18. pk2
    Some say 40k is the magic number for calamity. If It's got a knock, it's still relatively together but you diefinitly should plan on tearing it down. You have a fair chance of repairing it. I would not pay much for it. Regards, pk
  19. pk2
    I might have it. Will get back to you. Regsards, PK
  20. pk2
    The immobilizer is and was and is definitely in peril . They can get wet inside and dry out enough for lt do run. I would take it out and open it up, make sure it's dry inside because if not the water will eventually wreck it. Then you need to find out how the water got there. The most common route is the result of plugged up drain pipes/holes on the left and right of the engine, under the clam shell. I'd run not walk on this one. The immobilizer and programing is not cheap. The clicking, if it were from the engine bay could be a bad ground (or less likely a drained battery). Moisture can aggravate this, check the battery first, look for fuzz around the terminals, also the ground strap to the starter . Removing the immobilizer can be really easy if you don't min d making a short incision behind the seat. BUT GET IT and dry it OUT AND FIND THE Leak. Regards, PK
  21. pk2
    Shooheim, I have to take issue with Maurice. I think he may have misunderstood your statements If you have a working pill, any body can cut you a key (if that still good) and your good to go. If you have a key hat turns, you can take that pill, hold it next to the key and fire it up. Once you fire it up,you can take the pill and stick it in the glove. Two things matter. 1) your key sword turns all the way. (mechanical) 2)The car has to be programed swallow your pill (recognize and accept the pill) (electronic) yours does apparently. Get a head and get a sword, get the sword cut and pop in your pill...and we'll see you at the races. Maurice's reservations are for people who have lost the key AND the pill. Yours is not the case. I gotta know, what on earth are you going to Porsche for a key? open your mouth and your in for a grand...find a decent indi. Regards, PK
  22. pk2
    I have had that problem before too, in very cold weather (with other cars). In my case I think it was lubrication (sauerkraut) in the mechanism loosing most all viscosity due to cold. That was my conclusion anyway because as soon as it warmed up into to the 30's or so, the problem would go away. If you can get in and drive to a heated parking garage and park for a some hours, the problem might go away. Or maybe just driving around with the heat on for a couple of hours. Not exactly a permanent fix but, could narrow down the possibilities. God I miss my 2 years in MASS. Good luck, PK
  23. pk2
    Nacp1 Thats a resonable asumtion . Everything seems to feed into that security box "commmputer". I fried one once. Better find out what caused the short before you transplant an instrument cluster$$$. I also don't quite see how it would effect the lights or doors locks. I would think you have a systemic problem elswhere further back down the pipeline. Try getting your lights to work before you drop in an exspensive dash gauge pannel in. Start with bulbs, follow the wires, check the fuses and relays. Assuming the problems are related, blowing through light bulbs till you find the prob. is cheaper than blowing through dash module. Regards, PK
  24. pk2
    Do You Have a CEL? Generally cars needs extra fuels when cold. Long story. Anything in the loop that detects the fuel ratio could trip it up. Off the top of my head, O2 sensors might fit the bill, temp sensor maybe, somthing to do directly with the throttle body, but you really ought to have a CEL...get the failur codes. The best, pk
  25. pk2
    Chuckles apparently thinks we're in it for a laugh. Inside I'm busted up allover. PK
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