pk2

If the idiot lights dim alot when you try to start it, probaly battery related. Another common problem is a microswitch on the cluch pedal. However you normal wouldn't hear a click. THis easy to "jump" by putting your head unde the dash, look for a couple of wires going to a small blk box in close proximity the cluth arm...beleive or not I forget how you jump it... If I saw it right now it would come right back to me...invoves a short oiece of wire...some-one help... pk

Hello, I’ve got a 99 Boxster with 18 ’inch factory turbo twists wheels, zr 265/35 18’s on the back and the complimentary zr 225/40 up front. Bout ready for some new rubber. Don’t drive too hard or race, but like the twisssties. Can’t go very fast around here, 120 the most I’ve been (if that fits into the equation). Also like longevity, and price big (trade price and life for a little less performance). Votes for the best bang for the buck… size, brand? Votes are appreciated… P.K.

Found that, it's the biggiest relay I have ever seen in a car :) I will get it changed. Unfortunately the roof just stoped working, can't open it, brake light on, window drops down when the hook is opened. Must be in the same department - relay. Also what are those 2 things just next to the back/roof drain pipes. It has 2 wires coming out, are these some switchis too? Could that be a problem? YOu can somtime smack that relay into shape. Take it out and give it a few good waps on the ground. Didn't work forme but I took it aprt and did some micro surgery...works now. PK

Hello, I don' but I wonder why a simple hack with a discrete switch somwhere to turn the bags on and off would'nt do the trick. Theres only 2 wire to each bag. P.K

Yes you most likely have a leaking head gasket… as to a new motor, unless your driving around with the temp pegged, get the leak fixed and off you go. Sometimes it takes awhile. Oil will eventually turn grey (really bad case) coolant doesn’t necessarily show any thing obvious. If your blowing the cap off and the threads are good…hate to say it… Another folksy observation I’ve made is that if you remove the overflow cap (gently) when the engine is cooled down to safetly do so, and you smell a sort of exhaust/ozone like scent, hate to say it again… Normal course of events is to have a “leak down test” done. That we’ll tell your mechanic a lot as to the where and what the nature of your leak problem is. Is your engine shot? hardly. Unless a lot of water sat around in a cylinder your worst case is a cracked head. If you haven’t overheated the _ell out of it, it’s probably a head gasket. Labor cost won’t be fun but the parts are nothing. I can’t think of any reason you’d need a new engine. Stop sweating , :) P.K. Oh ya, Another tel talle sign as to the severity is to lok at the inside of the oil filler cap, if it's got some gray oil, you definitly have a leak of some sort.

I can speak from expppperience in that my top does the same thing: lights always on and the top dosn't stop moving til I take my finger of the button. I know all the switches work and I fixed the little relays in the relay/top controle module (wouldn't go up). If you have DMM/ volt meter you will probaly find all your switches work fine. Mine do. From there it's just a question of processing the signals. I suspect the controler(signal processor(?)) part of it is shot. Let me know if you find a permanant solution...Feel free to PM me PK

Hi, How much of this Syncromesh fluid does it take to fill up a bopxster 5 speed? My second gear syncro took a pretty fast decline. For all pratical intents and purposes, I've really got to double clutch the _ell out of it to down shift. Ya really think this stuff could stave of a rebuild for awhile? Thanx pk

Hi, Forget the Porsche coolant, save your money for some good cognac. I'd go with the above recommendation. However though, there are in fact others out there that fit the bill. I did a bunch of research into exactly what was in and what was not in Porsche's mysterious brew. Short story is: Primarily, (don't quote me, been awhile ) it's the absence of some stuff...phosphates and sulfates (or sulfides? something like that) that make an antifreeze as kosher as Porsches own, I forget the details. As to your enormous leek, been there, could be any hose. In my case though, the overflow tank cracked (that’s when I did my research…faced with a $70 coolant bill, mine cost me $13 or so) Good luck, P.K.

Hi Ned, I just spent the weekend putting my top into shape. What a mess. Not a guru but I’m fresh from the trenches. From going through this myself (and reading zillion threads) the gears seldom if ever seem to be the prob. Being a 98, my guess would be the cables, loosing engagement and temporarily throwing your alignment off. You said you checked them out. Did you pull them out of the motor and check how much cable is sticks out (should be about 3.4”)? This seams to be a common problem which has symptoms similar to yours. The failure to stop says “micro-switch”. But that would be a remarkable coincidence unless your alignment (side to side)was so far off that the switch behind the drivers left shoulder never got tripped. Just about any thing that can go wrong with these tops is covered in a whole section here somewhere. Sounds like you’ve already done some home work though. Good luck, P.K.

O.K. did my adaptation of the silicone fix. My original bushings weren’t to bad, but bad enough to be an embarrassment. Difference in my attack is that I applied the silicon primarily to the back of the bushings and put the bolts back in finger tight, over night. Proved to be too stiff in the bottom corners. So I pulled the plate off and shaved the silicone down a bit with a sharp utility blade, works fine now. Bit stiff but its better than being flipped off all the time. One tidbit, if your reading this out off desperation, those T30 torx head bolts need to be installed in the back of the metal plate before you put said plate in place and bolt it down. These bolts will not go threw the hole you but your torx drive through. E.Z. fix silicone last forever in the dark and it took no more than hour (got a good beat…you can dance to it…) 9 outa 10… P.K.

Hello, My top open indicator light, according to the manual is your signal to let got of the button and thus stop the top movment in it’s tracks. Someone here stated that there’s stops when the light goes on. Would this be an improvement on later models? It seem completely logical: If a signal from the microswitches can turn the light on and off, it sure as heck could stop the top. If it is indeed a function on later models (mines a 99). Could I fit mine with a later model double relay/controller to get that function? Any body heard of a circuit “hack” to do it? I can’t think of why it wouldn’t have been done in the first place. It seems a slight jiggering of wires would do it…put the user out of the cycle. Regards, P.K.

Farfik Nugen :D LOL... Think I recall that that was deemed the most unsuccessful, annoying add campaign of it's time. Thanks for the encoragment. Latest wrinkle; I've gone back and checked my relays with the exception of 2 on the "lock" mechanism (the handle latch thing above the windshield). My top up light is permanently on. Sticking my finger in there doesn’t do anything, I'm going to check them but I wont be surprised if they both work. There's a lot of little nuances the circuit board on the double top relay (as I recall reading somewhere), for instance, that in the top up cycle, it actually keeps the motor running for a split second or so longer after release of the button to further cinch the clam shell down. Don.t really think that's happening here. With the light on always, my remote not working and, no noticeable movement in the clamshell after the buttons released, I'm kind of thinking there's damage on the circuit board as there doesn't seem to be any logic or intelligence apparent in it's fiuntions. I think fixing the subcomponent part (relay)of it allows it to function sans any bells and whistles. Regards, Peter Maurice, while you said an my manual confirmed it, the light on the dash just tells you when stop pushing the button only. I responded to somebody’s post, forget the subject, who mention in passing that his top automatically stops when the light goes out. Seems totally logical, if your circuitry can turn out a light it can turn of a motor. I wonder if this was a feature in later models. Further wonder if a newer dbl. relay would work in an older car and provide this advance capability... wonder if theirs a hack that someone as ignorant as I could whip up…requisite signals are sure all there… P.S. Do you think my conv. top relay hack warrents a post?

Easy - release the boot from the ...Might slightly twist the knob left and right to try and release the glue or leave it parked in the sun to heat up a bit before trying to pulling up. Go to it! Your right! just like that. Dental work still in place. A guy on PPBB was incredulous (as I was after I read his post) when he heard the official word from a Porsche tech on the matter “pull knob off”. He tried and only succeeded by heating the shaft up with a heat gun. I used a propane torch (nothin’ like a sledge hammer for me), as low as I could get it, to warm things up. Probably didn’t help much cause knob popped right of, no sign of adhesive (my reason for heating it up). Any way thanks a lot... P.K

Hi. Julian, I can’t pretend to be an expert. But I did just spent a weekend getting my own top to work after 2 years of hibernation. Thou you could just bend the little aluminum finger on the b pillar micro-switch, for a truly temporary fix you could get something like double stick tape (using it like a thick, regular tape, I.E. you won’t be peeling off the top side). Just put a piece on the top of blk arm of the lever on the very micro switch over the drive motor. Or better best, put the tape on the underside of the hatch where it hits the lever. Another piece could go on the back of the b pillar micro switch “finger”. If this is to much or 2 little, just improvise, their are tons of ways I can think of, from tape to hot glue, etc, etc. Hope that helps. Some one will come by with a better solution I’m sure. But this might help. Regards. P.K

Anybody know how to get the gear shift knob of? mines pretty wretched looking, got another good one, can’t figure how to get old one off. Thanks P.K.

Hi, Im In the same boat. Is it really worth replacing just one syncro? Is it significantly less labor and cost to do a single sybcro Thanks P.K

More great advice... Eetz Feegkzed! (Germ-english for, it's fixed!!) It was the double relay up above the fuses on the driver-side. ( I won't bore you with details of how deduced this) I will tell you that I "hacked" it thoug, in the crudest sense of the word. Unlike every other relays I've messed with (an electromagnet and a couple of electrical contacts) this had a circuit board and two tiny little un-openable boxes inside. I surgically cut them partially open. They were tiny relays. I measured some voltages, cleaned some contacts with a sliver of sand paper. Popped it back in and VIOLA!! IT WORKS!! Need to fiddle with relays as it doesn't seem to really stop itself in either the full-up or full-down positions. Thought I had checked them... maybe I need a new double relay for the circuit board part that does all the magic, but for now, the relay part works and for the first time in years my top goes up and down. Yeah! The thing seems to be synced just fine, adjusted the tie rods a bit, pretty much maxed out there length with center bolt, that's it. Small disappointment is that my remote doesn't work for the top (works for the locks though). The light blinks on my key and on the dash, it just doesn't do any thing. Anyway (Maurice), thanks a TON for all your patience and great detailed advice! Stay tuned cause I'm not done yet (sorry). Regards, Peter P.S. Should the top open and close with "one-touch" or do you have to hold it down through the whole cycle?

Hellom My first guess would have been a problem. My BMW had a slit inaudible exhast leek, It tleeked water to. Turned out to be normal condensation driping drom the leak. Pk

Hey Marice, Discovered something else that dosn't look so great. The transmisions, when cinched down are not really horizontal from the ground. That is if you look straight down into the convertable top comaptment they appear to be tweaked, the bottom bumped out. I guess the eastest way to describe it is tha the exsposed faces of the transmisions are in no way parralell to each other in any direction, allong any axis. If I didn't know better, I would say the transmision had been tugged weird by unsychronization and pulled the sheet metal they mount to katty-wampus. Should they be fairly straight looking (front to back, top to bottom)? Thanks as always Peter

I think they might be surface mounted. I've seen them show up on ebay every once in awhile with a whole sort of body attached. If I'me correct, and the other guy here is, you could always swap the speakers out and keep the stock look "body". P.K

Hmm So TPC is full of it. They swore to me up and down that the kit will squeeze in without dropping the engine. I forget which tube hung me up, I just remember messing with it for hours to no avail. If you had problems with that battered tube and obviously the previous owner of mine did, I guess it’s the culprit (the one I couldn’t get in). I dropped it at the corner garage at one point and asked them to give a try, asked them to try dropping the engine a bit…claimed they did…suspect it was pretty half hearted attempt. How far can you lower the engine before you start stretching things out? Thanks P.K.

Hell, Those are quite dramartic. My v arms are just not flat...slight bend. do I need to bother? I'm going to say I'm off 3/16 or so of being completly flat. I don't even know if they are not supposed to be off a bit/ Thanks Peter

Hi Maurice. I've started a new/continuation thread @ http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15824 , Thought this one was getting a bit lenghty. Took a stab at seting up the convert. with dicey results. You’ve been a tremendouse help starting me in the right direction & advice. Please tune in to the new thread and pipe in as you see fit Regards, Peter

Hello all, Synopsis: Newly synchronized transmissions after 2 years disassembled & non operational. Tried to sync today. Top goes down but not up, problem apprears to be electrical, motor will not reverse with all the tie-rods etc. disconected (99', 5 spd, 2.5L) Originally I had issues with re-synchronizing my transmissions (type "A"). Synchronized them individually by aligning "V" arms to notches on the trans. Case. Whille not working quite corectly, the solution is at hand (i sycncronized the "V" arms beatifully...180 degrees off.) Now the big pain, the top will open but won't close. With tie rods and the like disconnected from the transmission, the motor will only turn in one direction (open). Pushing the closed button does nothing. 1) took out the big relay, opened it up, little circuit board inside (surprise), cleaned of a little surface corrosion, cleaned contacts on plug, Gave it some fairly hearty taps, and drove it in and out of its socket several times. 2) Did the same with plugs on the up/down (or close/open) switch. Also swapped in 2 other switches, & jumped the plug, still no go. 3) Fiddled with the switch positions of the b-pillar micro switch and the switch, nothing. 4) WERDNESS: pushing the "close/up" button while holding the switch over the drive motor down makes the drive motor run in the wrong direction (like when opening the top) but it does run???? 5) Probably irrelevant but an apparent, remote control button for top on my key does nothing. ( Other button works with locks though) 6) NOTE OF HOPE AND CONFUSION: I found by tapping the up/close button the drive motor would turn in the wrong direction in little fits and spurts. It also on rare ocasions runs for 4 seconds or so 7)I can hear a "click" definitely from the relay when swithch is pushed either "open or " close". 8) More weirdnes: Stabing arond blindly at the 4 wires that lead to the motor, I found a pair the lit up 12v. on my v. meter by pushing the open but ...and... the close button ! (later discovered these are the only 2 leads of 4 that go to the motor. the other 2 go to the micro switch above it) 9)Nrew wrinkle today: removed drive motor and jumped it runs great on 12v., swithch polarity runs to reverse it. did, as I'd expect. But hecked voktage off the plug for motor. +12v with the switch in either up or down positions, no -12 reading???? So, an obvious solution for the "gear run-out" is rotate the gear to "v" arm 180 and realign it to the cover notches (the later orientation). May also install and adjust top tie-rods with the top in more of a complete "closed/up" position. Are "v" arms supposed to be perfectly flat? or is a littl bent in them O.K As to the up/close situation, weird circuit board relay sounds like a candidate, but I bet Porsche doesn't give them away, a pricey experiment. It also makes the right noise and I have nocked the thing around a bit (works for som here). If there's a work around I'd love to hear about it. If eliminating added complexity due to handbrake and speed overrides helps, I'm ready to say ba-bye to them . I have factory wiring diagrams, but there a bit confusing. Write now I could mickey mouse the thing to work, but not with the sophistication it's supose to have. I also found a PDF here describing how to test the micro switches through the top relay socket. Does anyone know where I can measure other voltagess I can check to Isolate the problem? Other tips, clues, insight greatly apreciated!! thanks, P.K. P.S.This the continuation/ branch of a thread started between "mark in sunnyvale" a "1schoir" (http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=15249&st=0&p=75978entry75978 ).if you want backround .

PM me with your email adress I might be able to help P.K.