pk2

Hi, I’m a designer (product). Do this stuff in my sleep. The main expense is the cost of a “one off”. It has either be hand fabricated or made in one several Rapid prototyping methods (Upload a precise 3d cad model file, few days later the exact part as designed is on your doorstep. Both are expensive and can be fragile. But there designed for exactly what you want and be exceptionality sweet looking! Regards, PK PM for more if you want.

Most chain type auto parts stores rent tools. They wouldn;t have anything specific to your car, but you often don't need them if you can improvise. With the exception of a torque wrench, I rebuilt the bottom end of a 6 cylinder BMW motor with the tools in the little trunk tool kit. P.K.

Hi, question about sparkplug heat and superchargers, what to much?. I’m installing a TPC supercharger in my Boxster tomorrow (hopefully). There’s a spark plug which will become inaccessible & require removing the blower to replace it in the future, I’d like to replace the plugs before I put the blower in. Several people familiar with this setup recommend stock plugs, definitely not platinum. I read somewhere it had to with the heat produced and its distribution. I bought what were supposed to be OEM plugs; “Bosch Super plus (FR7LDC+)”. The number indicates there heat index (?) a “7”. I thought I read “4” was Ideal for superchargers in this application. Any body with experience, suggestion, etc? Thanks, PK P.S. my "O.E" plugs have yridium (yes, with a y) with copper cores. Iridium is supposed to be not so great either.

Back to my original hack idea & mikes reference to the “smartTOP” relay replacement, my beef with that is that It’s $300. A standard power window controller cost about $25… exact same logic & functionality. Though the smart top is a wonderfully clean install and probably works perfect, I’d just feel like I’d be paying 2 bucks a gallon for bottled tap water (…oh wait, we do) The only reason I haven’t got the soldering iron out and hacked one these window controllers is that the only detailed description I found for one states that the safety function includes stopping the window automatically after 6 seconds. Another safety function (I.E. for closing it on you babies head in the top or something) is facilitated by switching of and reversing when a certain power/current draw exceeds a limit. Presumably the window controller will “learn” the normal current draw but, those little Boxster motors draw an elluva lot of current, Don’t know if it would over load the controller learning capacity. Any way, I’m also still stuck with my “top” lidiot ight permanently on (top up or down) plus the top doesn’t stop till I let my finger of the button. Thanks all for the continued input, PK

Ya, same as above, might be able to fix it by cleaning the contacts if you can find them (your going to have take the whole assembly out to replace it $$$, my swell try to fix it first) Good luck, PK

Hey Maurice, Peas in a pod indeed (LOL) my new best buddy dropped by from LA with his Boxster with a working relay today...guess what...It didn't work any better in my car than mine did (and my relay in his car worked fine). Believe or not, I’m sort of relieved in that the problem must be in the wire and switches, much more fathomable for me. Probably won’t get to it for a few days, but when I hunt it down maybe it will be the same problem your having. As to tripping the switch earlier with a foam pad or something, be an interesting little experiment. Since that switch should be tripped by the clam shell either with the top in full up or full down…might explain something. I'll have to look at my wiring diagrams and see if that switch somehow works in conjunction with b pillar switch I thought I had checked that switch on my car and I'm pretty sure the shell trips my switch…but it’s definitely worth revisiting. Regards, PK

Yup, thats what the book shows. Iwas hoping I was missing a preface of some sort... PK

Hey Marice, Sounds like your Bentley manual has the same info as mine. Probably just in plain English. This I don’t know, I haven’t tried it yet, I to was sort of befuddled by the manual... wasn’t particularly inspiring. As to taking the whole panel out, were as easy as the rear relay panel, I wouldn’t hesitate, but I doubt it is. You out be able to wiggle your v-meter probes in there. Or buy some alligator clips that fit the ends of your meter and stick a piece of wire or something on them to better angle them in. My supplement is out there on the net somewhere. I forgot where I found it but would be happy to email it if you want, bout a 3.5 page pdf. That’s a little gratifying for me in that with the same problem, a new relat didn’t solve the problem. I was afraid I’ have to buy on and not be able to return it…electrical (were you able to return yours?…no questions? The “relay” has a fair amount of circuitry which is strange to me in that aside from the “ease down” aspect (when the clam shell trips the back micro-switch, the light goes out but the motor continues for a second or so to snug it in the shell in place). The rest could all be accomplished by electro-mechanical means (I.E. regular old relays). Do anyway there’s a guy in LA who makes it down my way every once and awhile, seems keen on helping me out by swapping relay/controller with his, for a minuet to see if that solves my problem. But, in that you’ve got the same problem with no change with a new relay/controller, that could mean our problems are in the wiring/switch loop. This I might be able to hunt down…weird though I’ll psyche my self up to attack that relay socket and let you know what I find out Regards, Peter

Hello, I’m changing my gear oil trying to squeeze a little more life out of it(99, 2.5l). My factory manuals says the filled level should be 11mm below the bottom of the fill hole…are they kidding? I can think of ways to do it, all of which are stupidly painful. If this is true? Why wouldn’t they drill the fill hole 11mm lower? (Fill it till it spills I say) Thanks PK

Hey Maurice, My problem is that my "top' works but doesn’t stop by itself in either full up and full down positions + the convertible light on the dash never goes out. Have to watch the clamshell shut and let off the button. As you know, having patiently held my hand through the whole ordeal, a couple weeks ago I went through the whole top mechanism & fixed all kinds of things, tested others. Now that I can finally work it nicely with the switch (with an eye on the clamshell), I’d like it to be “all it can be”. I am pretty sure I checked the micro-switches with a DMM for continuity and they seemed to be in order. I’ve got a manual supplement describing how to test the input into the “relay/controller” socket. But as usual with these official Porsche manuals are pretty arcane. Haven’t siked myself up to measure every thing. Regards, Peter

Hi, I’m looking for someone in Orange County I can swap a part out with for a 1 minuet or so for a quick diagnosis (proces of elimination). My top misbehaves and I believe the problem lies with the tops "double relay". Ya see the relay is 100 bucks and most places don't like to take electrical parts back and from what I know of my car, chances are only 50/50 that it’s my problem. Don’t get me wrong though, I’ve been pretty exhaustive in my attempt to hunt down the problem and it’s pointing to the relay, but my cars weird…posseced. If you’re a Boxster owner, preferably 1999 or so, and wouldn’t mind letting me plug your “top relay” into my car just long enough to see if my problem goes away (or vice versa, I’ll plug mine into your car, see if it misbehaves), please PM me. It’s harmless, quick, and worth a good cup of coffee and a scone (or the like) of your choice to me. Plus, I’ll show some great twisties if you like (yes, in O.C.) Regards, PK P.S. The swap can in no way harm any of your electronics. In the extremely unlikely event, I’d certainly cover any repair cost.

Thanks All, I apparently didn’t subscribe to my own post and missed all of yours. Your info is great, big help. Regards, PK

Well todays your lucky day, peruse this http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?...age=2&pp=20 Exactly the same as mine. PK

I mentioned 120mph, that’s on really rare occasions. Mostly if you happen to get a rare break in traffic you can hit 85-90 mph. Except for a few back-roads with some tight twisties once in awhile, the thrills come in sweeping off-ramps. Guess my point is; there little need for prolonged high speeds. Thanks. PK

THanks for the reply. What is a Hunter road force tester and what tangible difference does it make for a daily driver? PK

Thanks for the advice, I checked that out, bit disappointed in the kumho’s mediocre showing. However, here in the sunny south west coast we’re in the midst of the driest year on record (3/4” of rain so far) and 6 yrs into a drought. Wet performance is never really an issue, 7” or so yearly is about the max we ever get ( and I havent' seen that in 15+ yrs.). Beside people around here cant drive; If you can make a quick stop you’ll probably just get rear-ended :) . Thanks Again, PK

Hello You don’t make quite clear if “engine turns over and is fine” means it’s running? Or even if it’s in your possession? A little Sherlocking here, observations; your across the pond, not exactly balmy, your passenger seat is missing (?), someone’s been trying to fix it an illogical electrical problem. Your passenger side is our driver-side. Someone was messing down there. Under our driver-side is the a main logic box/computer. If you’ve got a leak, with your less than stellar climate, it’s really easy to fill up that area under the seat with h2O. It happens to be the lowest point in the cockpit and there are no drains. That computer can easily be flooded. With that said, if you get to it soon enough you can take it out, open it up, dry it out (if that’s possible over there), reinstall and drive away. If it’s been a month it will have corroded and would have to be replace. If that is indeed the problem, do yourself a favour and drill a couple of holes through the floor at the lowest point. Wipe some gasket sealer into the holes to prevent corrosion. Purist are cringing right now; yes you should find the leak and fix it, but until you do & knowing you’ll have more…give yourself a little peace of mind. I could be of the mark, but that computer is in the lowest spot in the car and it can do all sorts of weird things. Explains a lot. PK

Quick fix, wrap some foil around the plug (don't wrap the end) PK

If It has gotten worse, you could have dirty contacts. Fast fix, slide wire end plugs on and of there male counterpart, do it with the fuse to. If you want to go beyond what is apparently normal, you could find some higher wattage bulbs. PK

The only wires going up the "a" pillar I can think of are for the center interior light and top lock micro switch. Either one should be checked but I don't see how this would affect the brake light, but check to see if they don't share a fuse (unlikely). Weird that it would cook a wire before it blew a fuse. Might just disconnect or cut that wire, replace fuse and see if stops blowing the fuse. Regards, PK

Hello, Sorry to but in. I’d like to have the longest lasting plug that could be considered “stock. I’m going to be supercharging my 99 2.5. Several knowledgeable SC people warned against platinum plugs and advised to stick with “stock” plugs. Once the SC is installed it's impossible to access the plugs without pulling the blower out, not somthing I want to do to often. Thanks, PK

Thanks, Kinda made up my mind on Kumhos. Oddly, general tires seems to lead the pack (tire rack rankings) for less, but they don't have the right size for the rear. Thanks, PK

I had no problems with the silicon deal. I put most of my silicone on the back side of the bushings and lightly finger tightened in the airbag mount with the 4 bolts in. Let it set up over night. Initially the lower half of the frame wouldn’t toot the horn. Just shaved a little excess rubber off the bottom mounts and it works fine. PK

I’d like to know about the aos works too. I kinda get tired of replacing whole component assemblies ($$$) when it’s usually some really small easy to fix or replace what’s-it. Your blue smoke is oil burning (white is water, black is way to rich( irrelevant with cats). Did you drain out the excess when you realized your mistake? I f not, your surge could be the result of excess oil accumulating where it’s not supposed, burning (obviously) and maybe affecting the readings in the injection feedback loop causing it to surge. If you did drain the oil to the right level and the AOS is not an issue (I clueless here), you may have worn valve guides, rings…etc…not fun. Regards, PK

Hello, I’m looking for the factory TPC supercharger (for 99 Boxster) install manual. I've got one some guy made but it leaves a bit to be desired (not that the original was a grand piece of literature) PDF, JPG’s, Xerox copy. I’ll pay reasonably for you trouble and expense Thanks! PK