pk2

Jeez, another limited addition… collect them all! …I count 3 so far. THink they'll appreciate like Princess Di commemoratives? What is the 303 hp up from? All done with exhaust? Regards, PK

I can think of one thing that might screw up a whole bank of cylinders. That might be a vacume leak in the induction system for that side. Although that would probably show up to some degree in the other bank…hmm. After a good look around, I’d get some starter fluid and spray it around the joints of the intake manifold, if you hear your engine rev a bit…that’s a problem. Good luck. PK

For Swepco; Google or pelican part or my locale shop Mesa Performace in Costa Mesa CA PK

You bugger, I was writing a tome about Swepco, while you were posting. Thought I was alone. See above. PK

Sort of; Swepco 715. Someone will shoot me down and that’s great. I have a quart and have yet to put it in. Love to here why I shouldn’t. I believe the main deals with fluids in these cars is compatibility with rubbers (seals & hose) in the system, boiling and foaming. Boiling and foaming proof isn’t really an issue any more. So it kinda boils down to the rubber. It shouldn’t surprise anybody that Porsche (like everybody else) sources much of their componentry. Indeed in Germany, it’s from a relatively small number of suppliers. I would be really surprised if Porsche doesn’t source rubber from the same place as Merc. and BMW. Can’t see any demands put on a Porsche that BMW doesn’t want or require. Further, there are a very limited number of types of rubber used in all hydraulic systems (Viton, Butyl, to name a few) My fave little German parts store of 20 yrs didn’t hesitate to recommend Swepco & has presumably sold it for Zillions of Mercedes, Audis, VW’s and BMW’s etc. and some Porsches with no complaints. Further , Google “Swepco Porsche” and you’ll of find zillions of apps for Swepco products for Porsches. Now, if that doesn’t nail it, I just called a familiar builder/tunner of Porsche race cars and the like (turbo’s, SC’s, etc) and they use it for power steering…and other Swepco lubes for everything else…as do many. So if someone doesn’t shut me down with a good reason (someone who doesn’t use Porsche air in their tires), I’m putting it in. You decide. Regards, PK

Frankly I’ve only found need when I’m working on my car with the radio on. But during those times I just have a battery charger in my front trunk it. It has a 2 amp option. I use the alligator clips sideways and can close the hood. Could hardwire it in to the battery without much fuss. Crude but effective. I don’t care a lot for the logo premium either. My 2 cents. PK

Thanks Guys, My guess was 18 to, but is 19. I couldn't find it in my manual either. Apparently it's listed under "fluids and lubrication"...couldn't find that either Regards, PK

Hi, Looking for torque specs, for 5 or 6 bolts that hold the exhaust manifold on. In Ft/lb 95 2.5 pleez Thanx PK

Are you talking crystal cove in Laguna? I've heard of some goings on down there. When & where? Is there a life there for a lowly blown Boxster there? Regards, PK

Welcome! Regards, PK

Hi, anybody mounted an intercooler on their Super or turbocharged Boxster ? If so, where and what kind? Does it require remaping your AIC or ECU. Also if your using a piggy back device, what kind? Thanx, PK

Listen to Maurice. I’d add to that though that you ought to find out why it exploded in the first place. Regards, PK

THanks for the education I guess I’m unsold on the DIY route. Transmissions always seem like something really scary and I felt psyched. My logic, it seems new, rebuilt, whatever, motors are always more expensive than transmissions. If it’s cheaper, It must be simpler and Motors don’t confuse me at all. So... 2 yr. warranty is great. Would have never guessed. My BMW trans gave out a while back. The dealer offered 3 or 6 months for a new or factory rebuilt trans. An indie gave me 2 yrs 24k warranty. That was about 6 yrs. Ago, no probs. The gearbox/ transaxle confusion: my book shows the box with all the gears in it separated from the differential & bell housing. Thought it would be nice not to have to disconnect the axels & what not. Just shuffle that little box with all the gears in it (didn’t say “gear-box”) across town. As for the dealerships profit center, a high school buddy’s family owned a dealership, There profit was skewed toward service end (and the parts for the service)…but then again, theirs was a Buick dealership… The extent of the damage, I see your point and you’ve been there and I haven’t. I guess my only reason for optimism as to the extent of the damage is that gnashing progressed from miner to major with me at the wheel and I sure as _ell wasn’t driving around crashing through the gears The junkyard route, true, not much piece of mind, they wraped it around a tree. I guess I just don’t have a good feel for how quickly a trans can degenerate. Would abuse of a good and working trans just show it's with a bang? Anyway thanks, probably go with a rebuild from my fav.shop … PK

Hi, are you saying sycros can be replaced without a complete rebuild? My second is shot, 3rd is weak and first (status unknown) I couldn’t care less about. Did you imply this could be done with just the gear box removed?? DYI?? (I’m pretty seasoned…rebuilt around 12 motors in my life including a 928) Or $$$ guesstimate? Aside from grinding 2nd without dbl clutching, and a bit of grinding in 3rd nothing howls, clutch works fine etc. Pretty low miles to boot. What’s the minimum you think I could get away with? Regards, PK ... It seems like usually by the time you experience a problem the damage is already done so I would bet you're in for more than just the synchros. There is likely damage to the synchro teeth on your gears and if you have to replace the loose gear wheels for first and second, Porsche requires replacement of the corresponding fixed gears if the milage is above something around 15k. So I would guess you're in for replacing first, second, the entire synchro assembly and if you wanted to comply with the Porsche's guidelines, the input shaft. ... You can remove only the gearbox by itself, so the engine can stay in the car. ...pretty much impossible to do DYI due to all of the special press tools needed. I think if you want to save money on this you would be better off removing the gearbox yourself and then taking it to the dealer. Hello, Thanks for your reply, finding someone who’s got there hands dirty in a gear box is just the person I wanted to. I’ve done lots of motors, never a trans. Isn’t the damage just the replaceable synchros most of the time? I’ve Haven’t really been cramming the thing into gear. Doing my best double clutching I can usually get it into second with minimal or no gnashing, 3rd only grinds with a high rev. fast shift. (there’s no howls and the like) How likely Is it that I’ve damaged more than the synchros? If you talk me out of DIYing it, I’d probably be taking it to an competent indi. shop I use. I’m a bit critical about dealerships in general and specifically Porsche, I think they overcharge and over prescribe, not to mention the fact that the a large percentage of a dealers profit comes from the service bays’ That would be nice, do you mean just the gear box or the whole transaxle assem? I’ve access to a 20 ton press and a Lath and mill to fabricate tools, but if that’s a hug program in it self…I’d probably pass. How do you feel about junkyard Trans? There’s several on Ebay (from a yard I trust) for $1500,supposedly with 37k miles, Their guaranteed for 3 months. If it’s good for 3 months, driven modestly and not often, any idea the likely the useful life expectancy? Thanks, PK

Hi, my 99 5spd gearbox seems fin and solid as does the clutch (pretty low miles), 2nd gear grinds up and down & requires DBL clutching always. 3rd grinds to a much less extent. First I don’t care about. Everything else is fine, no howling and the like. Pretty darn low milage. Is it possible to remedy this without a complete rebuild? Can it be done by just removing the gearbox (instead of complete transaxle)? DIY (pretty experienced amateur, lots of motors…complete renovations)??? Any guess on the cost from good indie? Thanks, PK P.S. Any peephole to see the wear opn the clutch

Hi, are you saying sycros can be replaced without a complete rebuild? My second is shot, 3rd is weak and first (status unknown) I couldn’t care less about. Did you imply this could be done with just the gear box removed?? DYI?? (I’m pretty seasoned…rebuilt around 12 motors in my life including a 928) Or $$$ guesstimate? Aside from grinding 2nd without dbl clutching, and a bit of grinding in 3rd nothing howls, clutch works fine etc. Pretty low miles to boot. What’s the minimum you think I could get away with? Regards, PK

My 2 cents: In that it happened in 2 gears and overnight (pretty remarkable if it was your box unless you were really romping on it), it must be something systemic. Your clutch probably isn’t disengaging or you dumped all your gearbox oil (unlikely). Good luck, PK

What he (rsfeller) said, and: You also have a window a controller or 2 involved. Security and the top “comfort function” which play a role in letting the window go up and down. The best you can do here is make sure you have good contacts on controller(s). Dirty contacts and all bets are off. I think the black box under the drivers seat has has a play in this, check the two harnesses that go into it, plug them in and out repeatedly. If you have any dampness down there, yank that box out right away, open it up and let it dry out. And give the contacts a good cleaning as best you can with sand paper and/or a wire brush. Dirty contacts in your relay won’t stop it from clicking but it wontt do any thing. You can take the relay apart and clean the contacts. You can also jump the relay (bit of trial and error) see what happens. Also check your grounds, unlikely but .if you’re in a damp climate… You can make the motor run in place, find out which wires make it go, then trace the wires back, putting your 12 v on it at every juncture. Good Luck PK

Hello, My 99 Boxster top works fine but wont top by itself when it should, (all the way down or all the way up). You have lift your finger of the button to get it to stop. The dash light never goes out To the best of my knowledge all 3 switches are functioning, as is the relay controller. I’ve poured over the wiring diagrams, lots of places for potential problems but if anyone can save me some trouble it would be appreciated. Regards, PK

I don’t know the specifics of these thrust bearing. I do know that your essentially looking at a complete clutch job. There aren’t really many things to go wrong with clutch mechanism. Parts including your bearing are as low as $354 (oem, Sun Coast). That’s gonna cover everything that might be amok in there. Personally, depending on the size of your town, I’d check with an established independent Porsche or German auto repair shops. Ask them there price for new clutch, then say by the way… Dealers offer absolutely nothing a good independent can. They just cost a elluva lot more. Dealers make a large % of their overall profit on service. Your repair bill is keeping the showroom sparkling. Regards, PK

Just finished a DIY (TPC) super charger install. 3 more pulleys, requires a longer belt. Every thing works duckey but the main belt disintegrates. 1) I just got back (literally) from a 1mile maiden voyage, cut short when my brand new belt disintegrated. 2) Today’s new belt replaced yesterdays brand new belt (albeit sitting around for 2 yrs.) that disintegrated in my driveway while I got ready for the maiden voyage. 3) The tensioner has to be tweaked just about to it’s limits to get the belt on; about an inch more than the stock belt requires 4) All the additional pulleys appear to be in line with the motors pulleys. With that said, I read about the tensioner (what Porsche has to say about it) and it appears it’s a hydraulic device of some sort (?) which would say to me that it’s designed to maintain a constant tension regardless of it’s position. Wish ther was a spec for belt deflection somewhere. One unusall note, both belts split. That is, they separated into two (one belt with 2 ribs, other with 3) before they really gave out. Which makes me think maybe something is slicing it as it spins around it’s circuit, though I sure didn’t notice anything at all that interfered. Regards, PK

Looking for a font set (or very good approximation) of the script used for all the later Porsche model names (not the old boxy one). I’ve heard its out there but I can’t find one anywhere. Anybody Regard, PK

Before I'd spend $300 on a smart top relay, (after you check your fuse) I'd take the DBL relay out and give it a couple good thwacks on your drive way from all sides. see what happens. If you want the smarttop features (nice but absurdly overpriced) just be aware you getting a $20 dodad. Same goes for the $75 OE replacment. Regards, PK

THeres A guy on ebay who sells all kinds of parts the dealers won't sell you. Probaly need a 3 x 4 star. You'd halve to figure out an mm size (don't know how thats measured). A really good hardware store will have them. I have a set of 5 + one with a "tamper proof"... hole down the middle for my trans. drain plug. If you splt the wheels, saling them can be a b___. <ake sure you do your home work on that one. Regards, PK P.S.Count up the points. Call Mcfadden Dale hardware in Santa Ana CA. if you get stuck.