Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

pk2

Contributing Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    668

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by pk2

  1. pk2
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Wish I could help, but pa is a bit of a drive, For startrers thow, the factory manual is a nightmare if your visually inclined. A lot of people use Bently manual, never seen it but might be more user friendly. $50 on amazon I think. If it's running well, no CEL, no knocks and clankes, there isn't that much maintenance to do that's critical up there. Maybe the serpentine belt (on front) and air filter...can't think of much else, of course a good look around for generic problems wont hurt. (cracking hoses, oil leaks, loose what nots, etc If your mechanically inclined , getting access is easy, the carpet behind the seats comes out without much fuss, the top carpet and storage box come of with little flip up and twist things. Under that, 2 metal panels, self explanatory. Good luck, have fun PK
  2. pk2
    Have it checked at Autozone or wherever for reasons you mentioned. Porsches do seem to drain all by themselves. I think 2 weeks is realistic. That's why a lot of P-car people get "trickle" chargers. PK,
  3. pk2
    Those motor mounts are stiff and will roughen things up. Wvicary is right,a misfire should give a CEL, but if cleaning the side of the engine include the heads and around the coil packs, you could have pushed a week one to far. If have a soft touch , you can put your fingers behind the tail pipe and see if you feel an even putter, if so, it's your new mount. If you have an even miss you'll feel it and it & it's probably 1 cylinder that's not all connected (coil?), an irregular miss is a different problem. But ,again wvicary is right , ya ought to have CEL for the last 2 problems. Regards, pk
  4. pk2
    If your talking gear oil, I no of at least one company that makes racing gear oils Porsche s that would be an alternative. Unfortunately you'll have to do some googling...there pretty big so you shouldn't have to look to deep' PK
  5. pk2
    I don't have one of Pedros but there are no problems I've heard of. I believe they're significantly cheaper . They're made of a more sophisticated rubber like compound than the OEM so they should last longer. However, the rubber compound is significantly more rigid so you get more vibration. He was going to make it more like the OEM one in structure to smooth it out but I don't know if he has. Regards, PK
  6. pk2
    Abdul I'm just think thinking aloud, not necessarily Porsche specific. I'm not quite sold on the booster. brighter bulb than I seem to agree, so maybe it's e a Porsche thing. But In experience with no booster (car dies at speed, no vacuum off the intake, bingo, no boost) is it's just harder than 'ell to push the pedal but, there is no pumping involved, totally predicable. But that is a total los of boost, not just a leak. However, any significant leak should make the car run like s___, loss of vacuum..I'd think. Maybe Porsche ahas an unconventional booster You could eliminate the booster out of the equation by doing your slow then hard push routine without it running (It's just going take about 50 more Lbs of pressure on the pedal). If the pedal behaves normally (given the circumstances), that is the pedal is always stopping when it should and where it should repeatably. Then if it's your booster alright. If it still will winds up (with alot of pushing), on the floor, it' s your hydrolics. If it is the hydrolics, got an idea how you could narrow it down but, gotta run. Regards, PK
  7. pk2
    Paulo986 I'm glad your mechanic agrees with me (2nd post), he must be brilliant (grin). The bushings that float the horn push-pad on yout steering wheel are shot. There's probably a number ways described here in threads to fix it on the cheap. My favorite is one withe black silicon rubber. Search lad search... Regards, pk
  8. pk2
    You should be able to find a Bently on Amazon (or someone else pipe in). Haynes and all the rest don't make one. If you know your way around the web really well, you can get an early version of the factory manual in pdf for $0-5. Regards, Peter
  9. pk2
    I don't think master cylinder is adjustable. If it is, it's a first for me in screwing with cars (lots of German) for 20 odd years. The fluid pressure is supposed pick up the slack. Regards, pk
  10. pk2
    You don' actually have to take the seat out your seat, you can reach in and under and pull it out from behind but youhave to know what to twiddle and how. The seats really easy to take out. Slide it back , and you either see plastic covers on either side at the end of the tracks (in which case take them of) or just weird star bolts of some sort (forget) sticking up. Take them out, roll the seat all the way forward and you'll see and do the same. There's also a wiring harness to disconnect. Your done. The carpet is on a pretty thick foam pad under the carpet, it can hold a lot of water without getting the carpet wet. You must have it wet recently for it to cause such brief failure. No-one believes me but you can get them wet and not ruin them if you catch it soon enough. I had one that I pulled out thrice right after storms, completely full. Dumped it out dried it out etc asap. It worked. I'd take it out and dry it out and be on your way. Fix your leak/drains to. But your not me so you might look online for a replacement. Regards, PK Regards, PK
  11. pk2
    So much it could be, loose or bad connection, relays etc. One thing that unlikely is flooding, I've know fuel inject cars won't let you flood them+the implication is that you cranked away on it till you flooded it...begs the question, why wouldn't it start in the first place. One thing, has rained? do you have a leak, water under the seat? That floods your security box down there and depending on how much, can wreak havok or kill itself. My guess though, bad connection including ones in the ignition switch. or in a relay or connector. Regards, PK
  12. pk2
    Nothing but all the usual stuff. Start with switch on the clutch pedal , could still be your hand break switch if it is dual pole (both can be hacked away for testing or forever), a relay or a fuse and of course your ignition switch if it feels weird. I'd say that's it but I know missing something Your implying it wouldn't even crank? You might turn the ignition on and jump the starter (You can jump the starter with your own battery in place, starters on top of enginewith to big leads) That might narrow things down. Regards,PK
  13. pk2
    3x, don't know why but I still do it the old fashioned way to PK.
  14. pk2
    Your right, long shot. But somewhere I saw a guide to basic or maybe detail classifications of plug types. Google "electrical plug typs wiki" add descriptors as needed I.E" ... GERMAN..." .If you can wield a soldiering iron, why not just pick up a male and female plug at radio shack of about the right size and splice them in. And of course if you have time and inclination, go to a junkyard and rip one out of a VW. Regards PK
  15. pk2
    You should be able to pull it out from the back. Holding the back of the top down are 2 cables. You have to reach down between the top and the fenders to find them. You also probably need to pop of the push rods off the to transmissions to get the clam shell up a bit to get the rear of the top up. Pull the thing out the back. You should search the millions of top problem threads. There is probably a better description than mine. Or you can buy some jumper cables. Regards, PK
  16. pk2
    There used to be a guy on ebay that sold all sorts of weird tools for tamper proof bolts an what not. PK
  17. pk2
    Sounds like fun! 3m Weatherstrip and gasket adhesive is the best. Be careful you don't glue yourself to the top. Before you go taking the top off ( Frankly I don't see the need but I never had to), there are some threads on replacing those trays. Do a search on "maurice", he never gets dripped on and is the resident top whiz. Whatever you do don't take it out in the rain. It will leak with everything ripped up and drown the security black box under your seat. Regards, PK
  18. pk2
    The fact that your vibration is only at 2000 rpm no less no more is (I beleive) called a harmonic imbalance. It's just like sometimes when a wheel is out of balance. It might shake only at 45-47 mph. I don't quite understand your diagnostics or analogy but it's just a vibration you have to hunt down. Nothing freaky. Regards, PK
  19. pk2
    2x + a master cylinder will usually give yo a warning by getting progressively softer and will stop disengaging all the way. You can usually get your "pedal" back by pumping it. Regards, PK
  20. pk2
    2nd gear is always the first to go. Weird though your getting a grind first on an upshift not on a downshift. Regards, PK
  21. pk2
    Brake pads, easy, you should have a book since you haven't done it. I don't know whats hot in rotors except that the Boxster has very good brakes and unless your racing or spending long hours on and off them, from what I understand, drilled rotors are overkill. (I'm sure there will be disagreement here). I think rotors are sort of a scam. Before you replace them, look them over for gouging (even if, you may be able to have them turned) mike (measure thickness) them. The tolerances are in book. if they're in tolerance forget about them. You can get a decent micrometer at Autozone or whoever. (a little tricky to learn to work...ask the clerk. Regards, PK
  22. pk2
    I had one mobile guy come out and make me a (with AAA) key for less than $200. Regards, Peter
  23. pk2
    If this is a factory new motor.take it back. PK
  24. pk2
    Hey jim , First Ive' fixed up my very different ones over the years no prob. (People don't drive around me very well). It's probably polyurethane, You can get repair kits off the shelf. If it's really nasty though, read those labels, chances are really good that they are 2 part polyurethane resin, use it with fiberglass cloth & it will really fly. Once that's done there are flexible fillers to finishe it off. Also, you can do a little heating magic on it. Regards, PK
  25. pk2
    I don't think Porsche really thought the whole 3 piece wind stop system through. My deflector recently wound up in my passengers lap after 9 years. at the price, it will stay in the trunk till I find a solution. There are a lot of people also who use black zip-ties to keep the headrest windscreens safe, myself included. Loosing one(you never know when or where, they just disappear) is a pricey, thrilless proposition. PK
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.