Porsche735

Note: Part numbers may change over time, so please make sure you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 2 ea 997 110 130 31 Tools you will need: T20 torx screwdriver T25 torx screwdriver 7mm nutdriver (or screwdriver) Begin by loosening the hose clamp at the throttle body using the 7mm nutdriver (or screwdriver). Next unplug the MAF sensor connector by reaching around the back and pinching the clip (a push toward the connection will help the clip to disengage). Unclip the MAF sensor harness at the right side of the air filter box. Pull the hose away from the throttle body to disconnect it. Pull the air filter box straight up (there are no fasteners holding it down, just friction and gravity). Tilt the forward part up to remove it from the car. Now is a good time to clean your throttle body while it is open… Remove the 8 T25 torx screws around the perimeter of the air filter box. Lift the cover off and remove the 2 T20 torx screws holding in the air filters. Pull the air filters away from the middle to remove. Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Now your Porsche is breathing better! Thanks, Chris

Note: Part numbers may change over time, so please make sure you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 1 ea 9A110221601 Tools you will need: Tools to remove rear bumper cover as outlined in: http://www.gettydesi...Rear_Bumper.pdf 30mm open end wrench (large crescent wrench possible) small prybar or screwdriver 16mm socket 8” 3/8” extension torque wrench Begin by removing the rear bumper (see other tutorial). Remove the air filter housing (see other tutorial). Look down from the top and you will see a bolt stick out past the inner mount. Looking from the rear of the car, you will see a hole to the left of the threaded tow hook mount. Using an 8” extension and a 16mm socket, access the bolt through this hole and remove. Use a small prybar or screwdriver between the pulley and the cage to allow removal of the spacer. Using a 30mm wrench on the tensioner housing, twist clockwise to loosen tension. Slide the ribbed belt from the alternator pulley. Slide the belt from all of the pulleys on top. Go under the car and slide the belt off the rest. Install the new belt leaving the alternator pulley to last. Using a 30mm wrench on the tensioner housing, twist clockwise to loosen tension. Slide the ribbed belt onto the alternator pulley. Use the prybar again to reinstall the spacer. Slide the bolt through the hole in the bumper and tighten to 27 ft-lbs. Reinstall your bumper cover and air filer housing.

Note: Part numbers may change over time, so please make sure you have the latest part numbers. Parts you will need: 6 ea 999 170 130 90 Tools you will need: Jack Jack stands 19mm socket for wheel bolts long screwdriver 5/8” Spark plug socket with swivel variety of 3/8” extensions 3/8” swivel 3/8” ratchet 13mm deep well socket E10 open end wrench E12 socket T30 driver Torque wrench Hi temp, conductive anti-seize (not required) Jack up the vehicle at the lift points provided and remove the rear wheels. Place jack stands under the suspension crossmember. You will repeat the following for each side of the engine. I am showing the hardest side in this pictorial which is the drivers side. I found it substantially easier to do this work with the header and catalytic converter (1 part) moved out of the way. Begin by removing the 3 13mm nuts from the catalytic converter end. Access the top nut by reaching around the top with a deep well socket on a ratchet. Remove the E12 bolts from the header Put a jack under the catalytic converter and pull the converter free from the exhaust flange. Make sure to keep the exhaust gasket safe. The jack is there to keep the O2 sensor wires from holding the weight of the headers and catalytic converter. Now with extra room it is time to remove the 2 E12 bolts from the coil pack cover. Slide the cover up, then out at the bottom, then forward. Notice the jack under the catalytic converter. Time to remove the T30 screws from the coil packs. There is just 1 per coil pack. I did the following one at a time to ensure the same coil pack went back in the same location. Push in on the top of the coil pack connector and pull connector off. Pull coil pack straight out. Using your spark plug wrench and variety of extensions, remove the spark plug. Using just the extensions, screw the new spark plug in all the way. You must ensure that you can put these in hand tight. Tighten the spark plugs to 22 ft-lb. Reinstall the coil pack . Connect the wiring harness. Screw in the T30 screw to 7.5 ft-lb. Repeat for the other 2 spark plugs on this side. Reinstall the coil pack cover and tighten E10 bolts. Reinstall the header and catalytic converter. Make sure to line up the header gasket before tightening all of the E12 bolts to 18 ft-lb. Do this slowly by snugging them all first and starting from the middle out torqueing them all. Tighten the M13 nuts on the catalytic converter to 18 ft-lb. One side down, one side to go…. Once complete, reinstall the wheels and torque to 96 ft-lbs. Safely lower the car and smile knowing that you saved yourself nearly $500 in shop costs…. Thanks, Chris