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1schoir

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Everything posted by 1schoir

  1. 1schoir
    Are you sure 400 degrees won't have any effect on the outer rubber dust seals that are around the caliper pistons? Just wondering if it would be better to remove those first because I am thinking of powder-coating my calipers as well. Regards, 1schoir.
  2. 1schoir
    From your original post, it sounds like you ordered and will be receiving the correct parts. Your old "plastic connectors" are in red plastic and the updated parts are made of a less brittle, and apparently more durable white plastic. It would be less confusing if you referred to the part that has the plastic connector (red or white) on the end as the "rod arm" (which is attached at the forward end of the V-Lever) . The part which looks like a black hydraulic cylinder and is attached at the rearmost ball of the V-Lever is properly called a "pushrod". The pushrod is attached at its other end to the arm of the clamshell (towards the rear). The rod arm is attached at its other end to the convertible top frame (towards the front). That being said, the part numbers that I provided in a post above is for the push rods (they run around $70 each). The rod arms that you need cost $40-$50 each, so I am sure that you are getting the right parts. Hope that eases your mind somewhat. Regards, 1schoir.
  3. 1schoir
    Yes, the Durametric identifies the 1997 Boxster as "Motronic 5.2.2 (Engine DME)". Guess I will try the procedures you outlined on both of the O2 Sensors, i.e., the one AHEAD OF and the one AFTER the catalytic converter on the psgr side. Thanks again. Regards, 1schoir.
  4. 1schoir
    Thanks for detailing procedure, Loren. The Durametric says "Oxygen Sensor AHEAD of Catalytic Converter" for Factory Code P0137. Does that code refer to the O2 sensors both AHEAD of and AFTER the catalytic converter? Regards, 1schoir.
  5. 1schoir
    CEL went on and has been cleared, but keeps returning. I plugged in my Durametric unit and got the following code: P0137 Factory Fault Code 12 Oxygen Sensor ahead of Catalytic Converter (Cylinders 1-3) Short Circuit. I don't know if "Short Circuit" means bad O2 sensor or if one of the wires leading to it is shorted out. I did go under the car, disconnected the plug leading to the subject O2 sensor, cleaned the connections and reconnected the plug but it still throws the same code. No evidence of any frayed wires. I am not sure if there is any connection, but the CEL may have come on shortly after I had an overflow of coolant into the trunk, as I know it is the same general area below which the O2 sensors on the psgr side are located. Car is a 986 MY '97 with 16K miles on it. (Long story). Any thoughts appreciated. Regards, 1schoir. :(
  6. 1schoir
    The push rods at first glance appear to be the same, but there is actually a difference in the part of the pushrod (the solid round metal arm) that attaches with the clip (i.e., NOT the ball/socket end). Make sure that you replace the correct part on each side. Part #: passenger side: 986 561 579 00 driver side : 986 561 580 00 Regards, 1schoir
  7. 1schoir
    Agreed. I will get the push rods first and take it from there. Do you know the part number by chance and where I could get them cheaper? Or is the local dealer the only option? Thanks again, Julian. Push Rod Part numbers are as follows: 986 561 579 00 986 561 580 00 Just bought a pair through my body shop friend (about $70 each) for my Boxster, which has not operated in the automatic mode for an extended period of time. When I bought the car, the previous owner had obviously had a problem because the clamshell has a little crease in it, and I have investigated and found that at least one of the cables has stretched. Mine's a '97. I may try to hook everything up this weekend myself. Regards, 1schoir.
  8. 1schoir
    As mentioned above, if you have an early Boxster with the "old" coolant cap, that could be the cause of your entire coolant loss problem. The complete part number for the updated, correct coolant cap is 996 106 447 01. Also, it is not unheard of for a new, replacement coolant tank to leak. Apparently, there is a difference between "OEM" and Porsche Original Parts in the case of coolant tanks. Some of the OEM tanks (they appear to be thicker plastic than the originals and make seeing the coolant level a little more difficult through the "window" provided for that purpose) sometimes leak through the bleed valve that is located just forward of where the coolant cap is located (round black plastic part, held down by 8 small screws, but you must remove the thin black plastic cover that is located under the oil filler cap, coolant cap, and dipstick receptacle to see it). When coolant leaks through the bleeder valve, it will eventually end up on the floor, near the inside of the right rear tire. If the coolant reservoir itself is cracked again, coolant will leak directly into the trunk and will soak the carpet, the padding and the wooden plates on the bottom of the trunk. Finally, if you are topping up the coolant, make sure to use only distilled water, not tap water. Regards, 1schoir
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