1schoir

Joe: To locate the cables, look on either side of the convertible top motor (which is covered by a thin black plastic housing). The top motor is located just forward of the third brake light, just below the underside of the clamshell when the clamshell is closed down tight. To get a good look and access to the top motor, you must raise the clamshell to its 45 degree position, which gives you the most access. If you can't raise the clamshell safely to the 45 degree position with the button, then you will have to disconnect the two black pushrods attached to the clamshell so that you can operate the clamshell manually. There are two cables (left and right) and they are connected (inserted and held in with a sort of a u-shaped, double walled, double leg clip) to the top motor on either side of it. After you verify which type of cable you have, as pk2 mentioned above, then pull up each clip in turn, and that will allow you to pull the end of each cable (pull outboard) out of the motor for inspection. If you have read the other threads, you know you should be looking for the inner (speedometer type) metal cable to be protruding from the end of the black sheath. Have a look and post again. We will go from there. Regards, Maurice.

Darren: Just curious... What did you specifically find most difficult? Was it the aluminum shoulder plates, or the rearmost frame gaskets X 3? Did you have to get new clamping rails? Regards, Maurice.

Here is the procedure that was spelled out by a poster named "rsfeller" earlier. It's pretty detailed and should give you a good idea of what's involved. "The roll bar doesn't need to come off to remove and bench the convertible top frame/canvas. There were three bolts and two screws on each side of the top and it lifts right out....took less then 10 minutes to remove and 10 minutes to install. My camera battery was dead so no good photos but the procedure goes something like this. 1. put in service mode with clamshell at 45 degrees, cables off back window and window up. You'll need to remove the arms from the transmission to the push bars. Mine were broken so I didn't have to remove them but the red (or white) end will pop off the ball joint or you can use a allen key to remove the head on the transmission. 2. remove lower B piller trim panel behind seats with the 8mm bolt at the top and the screw at the bottom which is hidden well in my black carpet. This removes the defroster hook up and gives access to the top microswitch on the drivers side. The small connection for the microswitch is near the floor. I had to cut one zip tie too holding the microswitch wire to the roll bar. 3. Take out 3 larger bolts on backside of top frame viewable under rear with glass in service mode position. The manual shows a box covering this with two screws for some type of water protection. My car didn't have this and it looked factory. So Three bolts and two phillips screws. They were very low torque and I found no torque spec for reinstall. The are self centering bolts so no worry about getting the top "just right" on reinstall. Your wife can help you remove or install as the tops weight is very low. 5. Slide top back one inch and lift straight up. NOTE: I highly recommend using a light clear spray grease (with straw) on all pivot points. After greasing my top I can put it up down with one finger in manual mode. There is no question that greasing a 10 year old top will help all the little aluminum and plastic parts live a long and happy life together. Installation is a reversal or removal, that simple. If you want to take your top off to get an bent "stuff" (like me) drop me a private message and I'll be happy to coach anyone." He was kind enough to post this as not too many have gone that route. Regards, Maurice.

Honda: Check out Mike Focke's Boxster Pages for excellent DIY instructions on replacing the top, with loads of photos at: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/replacingthetop-adiy So that you don't get delayed once you start, be sure to buy the two clamping rails ahead of time. The plastic ears into which the little black pins push into almost always break when taking them apart. They're relatively cheap (about $12.00 each) and you can always return them if you don't break the original ones. If you run into any roadblocks, shoot me a PM, or post here and I'll provide you with any help I can. Regards, Maurice.

Bob: I agree, it sounds like the beginning of a failing ignition switch. I got two oem switches (one spare because of all the stories here and elsewhere) from FCP Groton for $32.00 total, shipped. Number is (860) 445-7340, ask for "Scott". Regards, Maurice.

Hey Marice, I’m further waylaid by my starter problem (I think you’ve added your 2 cents somewhere). Funny, all I’d done was change the plugs and taken of a filter box duct (plus hung the sc on the motor, (no connections made though)). To make matters more comical, this whole odyssey started with a decision to refinish my wheels (then since the cars up & level, how bout change the gear oil, need a special torx socket for that, & hey, low and behold, there’s the bracket for the blower I started to install 2 years ago, lets reignite that flame, need new plugs for that...etc, etc). Tell me more about table on “61-6 of the Bentley manual”. What does it cover? I’ve wanted that manual but have been spending money willy-nilly while this project(s) spins out of control. Not in the budget One thing that might fit into the top equation, maybe, would be some interface to the computer under the drivers seat, might entail some programming by someone with a Porsche PS….bla bla tool. That computer has tentacles into a number of areas you wouldn’t expect, top might be one. I had mine (computer) replaced while the top mechanism was a mess…inoperable. Would explain my problem but not really yours in that yours is working halfway now through brute force. One thing I’ curios about; when your top goes down and stops itself, I seem to recall reading somewhere that the clamshell actually delays shutting off after the switch is tripped, for a second, to cinch down the clamshell down. Do you se any evidence of that happening? I just got to take a look at the wiring diagrams a bit, read some voltages, etc. Problem is, a lot of those wires disappear into the relay/controller with no explanation as to the logic in there, so I’m only guardedly optimistic that I’ll find the silver bullet. Anyway thanks, Peter Peter: What you describe as your "odyssey" is a well-known phenomenon in gearhead circles, and it is affectionately known as the "mightaswell syndrome". It goes something like this...you take one broken part to work on it, and then you start thinking, well, as long as I have easier access to this other part, I might as well... You get the idea. One good thing is that it signals that you are perfectly normal. LOL!!! Although, I have been down that road so many times that those who know me well would argue that point strenuously. Don't get discouraged, especially not by the starter problem. It's sounding more and more like a bad, loose or corroded connection problem. Just keep thinking what the car will feel like when you get it all back together. With respect to the convertible top idiot light saga, there is a poster named "jporter" who has explored what is known as the "after-running time" of the convertible top motor once the clamshell microswitch is tripped. Tool Pants also shed some light on that issue in one of his posts, where he described an old-time german mechanic who used a spring glued onto the underside of the clamshell to trip the microswitch a split second sooner. jporter's solution was more involved, and in the end he concluded that he might have been able to solve his original problem by first tightening down the nuts that hold the black plastic cover on top of the transmission where the wormgear that is turned by the cable is located. I don't think the alarm unit under the seat is related. This past weekend I installed the kits to correct the airbag light problem and I became pretty familiar with all of the wires down there. In my case, as I stated, there was a cycling back and forth of the clamshell at the very end of its travel towards closing with one of the thicknesses of styrofam blocks that I tried. It's a little too cold in New York for the vinyl window the last couple of days, but as soon as we get a sunny, warmer day, I will go out and analyze that and report back. Even though I replaced my canvas top recently, I'm being careful with the vinyl window. I am attaching a photo of the chart that I mentioned from the Bentley manual. Bentley got it from the Porsche Factory Manual. Maybe when you study it, something will make sense to you there, although, with what you have going on with your supercharger install, it may be a little taxing. If the photo is not clear enough, let me know and I will scan it in. Let me know if any "lights" go off! Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice, sounds like you hit on another piece to the puzzle, I always thought the rear switch with the big arm on it seemed like an awful big target to miss, and, as you said, it doesn’t take much to trip the switch. So I never bothered with it, guess I ought to revisit it. As to the up position, gotta have something to do with the b pillar switch and whatever circuitry goes along with it, or at least it works in conjunction with something else…wonder if those “sensors” by the rearview mirror come into play for some reason (never understood what they were there for) Still fiddling with my Super charger. Wrestled and wrestled with it till learned in a very mater of fact way that despite TPC protestations to the contrary, installers regularly hack and mod the thing to make them fit and work. I really thought there was something wrong with my car. Turns out to be a somewhat poor design with poor execution. My car and I aren’t to blame for my bleeding knuckles BTW, do you have a remote on your key for the top, I do and it doesn’t do anything either. Hope when the normal functions are sorted out, the remote will fall into line… Regards, PK P.S. Ill get to gandering at those wiring diagrams for the top as soon as I get the SC square. PK: I believe that the "sensors" by the rearview mirror are sensors for movement inside the cabin when the alarm is on. My key only has two remote functions, one to arm and disarm the alarm/locks, and the other to remotely open the rear trunk lid. The problem with these superchargers and a lot of aftermarket kits is that the makers of these kits won't admit or inform you up front that "minor" modifications or bending might be necessary. I'm sure you'll get it sorted out eventually and your knuckles will heal a little faster when you hear the whirring of the supercharger. As far as the top, I did replace the B-pillar microswitch (along with almost everything else) so I'm not so sure that that is where the problem lies. I think some of the answer may lie in that hard to decipher table that is on page 61-6 of the Bentley manual. Let us know when the SC is done and we'll get to the "bottom" of the top mystery eventually. Maybe JPorter will stumble onto this thread and enlighten us all. Regards, Maurice.

RDSII: Make sure those sport seats have the updated buckles. Part numbers are 996.803.183.09 Driver's Side and 996.803.183.10 Psgr's side. If you follow the seat belt buckles' electric lead to under the seats, the driver's side lead will terminate in a square blue 4 pronged connector that is housed in the outermost position within the seat plug connection. The passenger's side lead is green. Regards, Maurice.

Didn't mean to depress you. Just wanted you to know what you were up against if you went to the dealer again. The obvious reason why we put up with this kind of engineering abuse (and there are others that I won't mention here, but you know what they are) is because of all of the other inimitable qualities of the car. Regards, Maurice.

If you fix the problem, the easiest way to turn off the Check Engine Light is to disconnect the battery negative cable for 1 minute (BE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR RADIO CODE FIRST) and then reconnect it. Best not to do this until AFTER you have had the codes read, so that you will know exactly what the fault is. Regards, Maurice.

Chuck: I disagree. You are actually pretty good at this photo stuff. Your car, in the second photo, looks like it's about to take off!!! Oh, and you are really, really good at turning a disaster into a beautiful positive. Enjoy your new wheels (both the car and and the rims), and use them in good health! Regards, Maurice.

P.K.: Some progress on determining how the "top open" light on the dashboard is turned on and off... Yesterday, after reading and re-reading some of the posts from a couple of years ago by JPorter, Tool Pants and others, and reading a recent comment from Stefan to one of your posts, I went outside and started to "play" with my top again to see if I could transfer some of the knowledge of the aforementioned posters to my top. Some kind of "osmosis", I was imagining. Anyway, I cycled my top up and down a couple of times and I was able to see that, near the end of the "top up" travel, when it was almost closed and the clamshell was closing down tight, the underside of the clamshell was NOT contacting the small black crooked lever that operates the clamshell microswitch. I was able to see this from inside the car by looking under the roll bar and holding up (out of the way) the vinyl "skirt" that normally hooks onto the two black plastic tabs on either side of the rearmost vertical surface under the clamshell. On the reverse cycle, i.e., when the top was fully opened and the clamshell was closing down tight on top of it, I could not see as well whether or not it was making contact and depressing that lever to activate the microswitch. To get the clamshell to go down further (tighter down), I screwed in the two 32mm painted (plastic) hexagon-shaped receptacles that accept the two cone shaped rubber parts that are fastened to the underside of either side of the clamshell on its rearmost edge. That aligned the clamshell a little better with the surface of the car's quarter panels, but now it was just about making contact. The clamshell microswitch is tripped almost as soon as the crooked black lever is pressed down (i.e., at the very beginning of its travel downwards). Next, I taped a 1/2" thick piece of styrofam to the underside of the clamshell (there is a small raised "bump" where the microswitch lever arm is supposed to make contact) and now, when I raised the top completely, I could see that the microswitch lever arm was being depressed by the clamshell as it was shutting down tight. Now, I pressed my top button to open the top completely and, after the clamshell closed down tight, the "top open" light on the dashboard went out AND the motor stopped operating. EUREKA!!! Pressing the top button in the open direction (on the left side of the button) would now not operate the top. Pressing the top button in the closed direction now activated the motor, lit up the warning light and sent the top on its way to the closed position. Unfortunately, for some reason, when the top reached its completely closed position and the clamshell closed down tight, the warning light would NOT turn off on that end. BTW, in the course of trying the various adjustments (screwing in the receptacles, taping on 1/2 inch styrofoam piece, trying 1" inch thick piece, etc.) I noticed that at times, either with the top all the way up OR all the way down, the clamshell would cycle up and down in a loop for about a two inch travel from completely shut tight to slightly ajar and keep going back and forth with the button pushed in the open mode (with the top completely open) or with the button pushed in the closed mode (with the top completely closed). I also noticed that what actually trips the warning light on when it is off is the actual initial pushing of the button. When you push the button, the warning light goes on instantaneously, with no delay whatsoever. I think that what happens next is a combination of signals from the B-pillar microswitch and from the clamshell microswithc is what serves to turn the warning light off, but not positive if it is both, or a combination, or a specific sequence that does it. So, that is as far as I have gotten. I hope you will be able to use some of this information to figure out exactly how this actually works. One added benefit of the warning light going out is that, with the top completely open, the windows can be operated all the way up and they will stay all the way up. Before, with the warning light on (even though the top was completely open), the windows would retract down by about 2-3 inches from their completely up position. The major benefit, of course, is that the motor turns off and there isn't excessive pressure on the push rods or the joint arms of the kind that would destroy the plastic cups ($$$$). (Note: You can always "reset" the warning light [i.e., turn it off] by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds. If you do it for only 10 seconds, you don't have to re-code the radio, but you still have to reset the clock.) As you said, I would like for my top to "be all that it can be", and I'm not quite there yet, but I think we have made some progress. Regards, Maurice.

Couldn't agree with you more about your Toyota comment. In two different Toyotas (92 Camry and 97 Celica Convertible), with a combined mileage approaching 300K miles, never any hint or sign of an airbag light on my girlfriend's car. The latest Porsche fix involves replacing both seat belt buckles, splicing and soldering in four leads with "gold plated and greased" contact springs and substituting them for four of the original contact springs in the 8-pin connector under the driver's (left) side seat (positions B5, B6, B7, & B8), doing the same but with only two contact springs on the 8-pin connector under the passenger's (right) side seat (positions B7 & B8), and then splicing and soldering beefier leads with cable lugs in place of thinner leads all leading to a ground point under each seat. After that, you must substitute new plug caps on the the 8-pin connectors, which now include a tab that is used to securely fasten all of the wires exiting the 8-pin connectors with cable ties, and add cable ties to the female 8-pin connectors on the undersides of the seats and you are almost done. It's a straightforward job once you decipher the descriptions and language in the TSB, which is a special chore in itself. Then you have to reset the airbag light with your Durametric, PST2 or PIWIS and that provides a "permanent" fix. Not doing both seats (regardless of the specific codes) is just putting off the inevitable, IMHO. I have been thinking lately of the hundreds of thousands of dollars of revenue that these airbag lights have brought to the dealers, either from the money they collect from Porsche on warranty work or on "paid" work. I also wonder if it's only in the hundreds of thousands of dollars, and not more. This also does not take into account the untold wasted hours spent by Porsche owners in having to get these fixes. Regards, Maurice.

Rizzo: The motors rarely go bad in comparison to the frequency of window regulators "stretching" or fraying and needing replacement. What you have described are the classic symptoms of a "stretched" window regulator cable or assembly. Go to this link for a more detailed discussion and photos: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...&hl=1schoir Although it deals with a 986, it should be the same or very similar for your car. One minor difference is that when you install the new regulator, you need not use the additonal "bump stop" that is usually included with a rivet in a small plastic bag. The 996 uses the lower bump stop (on the front rail of the window regulator only). Good luck, and let us know how you make out, and what your defective window regulator looked like. Regards, Maurice.

Just to clarify... The microswitch in the photo is the one behind the outer door handle. You can see the small black part (just above the microswitch metal lever) that acts on the microswitch. As the handle is pulled up from the outside, that small black part "rotates" and presses on the switch. That is what causes the 1/2 inch drop of the window when you initially pull on the outer door handle. There is another similar switch (not shown in the photo) which is mounted on the backside of the door panel and which has a similar effect on the window when the inner door handle is pulled. To locate the remaining switch, follow along the (green in my '97) plastic cable which you see sort of bent over at the left center of the photo. That cable, which is covered by a black fluted rubber cover as it goes forward to where it is connected to the inner door handle, is the cable that acts on the latch which is on the (rearmost) side of the door to unlock the door. You can see where it leads to sort of vertical (slanted) cylinder with wires coming out of the bottom. The remaining switch is in that location, and that is the one that is tripped by either closing/opening the door, or by closing the latch (2 clicks) as Tool Pants suggested above. Regards, Maurice.

Tony: The prevailing wisdom is that the airbag light is caused by a defective/insufficient ground not on the tensioner side, but rather on the seat belt buckle side (female side). The Technical Service Bulletin that deals with this issue is number 6924, dated 21JUL04. It deals with fault codes 45, 46, 48 and 49. One way to get access to the TSB's is to become a contributing member of RennTech.org (click on "Quick Menu" above and scroll down to "Current TSB's). Regards, Maurice.

Tool Pants: Here is a good photo of one of the (three ?) microswitches inside the door for your files: Regards, Maurice.

Don't do it yourself. Stainless is harder to paint than other metals (also to weld and to plate.) Powedercoat should hold up and is not that expensive, a high temp appliance enamel should also do it. Professionally applied paints are catalized and or cured differently and it's a specialty thing. DIY with caution, experience, and some expensive tools. There is a pretty good and not too expensive powdercoating kit available from The Eastwood Company. Works great, all you need is a small oven. Regards, Maurice.

Check out eBay. There is someone on there that sells a kit, and he specifically mentions a darker tint available for an additional $10 IIRC. Regards, Maurice.

AK: You did not mention whether or not the "top open" warning light stays on in your dashboard. If the light does stay on even if the convertible top (what you are calling the "hood") is fully closed or fully open, then you will not be able to completely close your windows. The only way the windows will go all the way up and stay up is by artificially keeping the windshield microswitch depressed. Not very practical. As far as your V-levers only spinning in one direction when the top is completely closed and the clamshell is all the way down and snug, there is a way to reverse the direction of the V-levers as a temporary measure. Since your car is a '99, and judging from your description of what you have replaced, I am going to assume that you have a B-pillar microswitch under the LEFT side B-Pillar microswitch. If you take a small allen key or use a small piece of wire to lasso same around the small metal lever part of the B-pillar microswitch and pull it and HOLD it forward (so as to trip the switch), that should reverse the direction of travel of the V-levers and permit you to not have to resort to releasing the brass clips by hand. It may be that the bend in that small metal lever part is not sharply angled enough anymore so as to trip the switch (as it is supposed to) when the top reaches its almost closed position. Here is a photo of the B-Pillar microswitch (note that it has been removed from its installed position for this photo). In my case, when I had a similar problem, replacing the clamshell microswitch took care of the issue. You might try removing that (clamshell) switch and cleaning the contacts as a first step. Take a look at some of the photos and descriptions in recent (last 3 months) threads, and that should give you some guidance in getting your top working again. As far as getting the "top open" warning light to go out at the appropriate times, I have not been able to get to the bottom of that yet. That is my last remaining hurdle and has been for a few weeks. Regards, Maurice.

Tony: Some work, but no definite progress yet. I removed the air bag on the steering wheel again and cleaned all of the contacts between the airbag and steering wheel and any grounds to the chassis in that area, after removing the instrument cluster. Fault code 21 is still there, as are the seat belt buckle codes. I am going to attempt to attack this in reverse, i.e., by pulling out the seats and installing the "service belt buckle sets" on both sides according the the TSB (#6924, dated 01/04) to try to get rid of those codes first. If I get really lucky, it might be that my Durametric is mistaken and the "21" code is really not called for. We'll see. If your mechanic pinpoints something definitive, please let me know. I'll keep you posted as well. Regards, Maurice.

Clubhead: Sorry, I don't have first hand information on that question. Maybe the dealer just trying to replace the additional parts so it's not an unknown, but that's only a guess on my part. How much mileage on the current mount and brackets? Regards, Maurice.

Hey Marice, Sounds like your Bentley manual has the same info as mine. Probably just in plain English. This I don’t know, I haven’t tried it yet, I to was sort of befuddled by the manual... wasn’t particularly inspiring. As to taking the whole panel out, were as easy as the rear relay panel, I wouldn’t hesitate, but I doubt it is. You out be able to wiggle your v-meter probes in there. Or buy some alligator clips that fit the ends of your meter and stick a piece of wire or something on them to better angle them in. My supplement is out there on the net somewhere. I forgot where I found it but would be happy to email it if you want, bout a 3.5 page pdf. That’s a little gratifying for me in that with the same problem, a new relat didn’t solve the problem. I was afraid I’ have to buy on and not be able to return it…electrical (were you able to return yours?…no questions? The “relay” has a fair amount of circuitry which is strange to me in that aside from the “ease down” aspect (when the clam shell trips the back micro-switch, the light goes out but the motor continues for a second or so to snug it in the shell in place). The rest could all be accomplished by electro-mechanical means (I.E. regular old relays). Do anyway there’s a guy in LA who makes it down my way every once and awhile, seems keen on helping me out by swapping relay/controller with his, for a minuet to see if that solves my problem. But, in that you’ve got the same problem with no change with a new relay/controller, that could mean our problems are in the wiring/switch loop. This I might be able to hunt down…weird though I’ll psyche my self up to attack that relay socket and let you know what I find out Regards, Peter Peter: My friend has a body shop and a customer brought in his Boxster (MY97) for some body repair and mentioned that he had "accidentally" run over his top relay while trying to figure something out. So, when my friend ordered a brand new relay for that car, we tried it out in my car after trying it out in his car. His car: fine... My car: NG, same as before. We went back and forth more than a few times just to make sure, even tried my old relay on his car, and that worked fine as well(but only on his car). Asked my friend if we could just swap cars (same colors, Ocean Blue Metallic) after he finished the paint repair, but he wouldn't go that far. Oh well! LOL. As for the manual and the supplements, thanks for the offer, but I have hard copies of both. Like I said they didn't do me much good except for verifying the last three steps that involve the wiring to the motor, and that was okay. I tried sticking in paper clips and even some special Radio Shack connectors into the relay terminals, but I still couldn't make heads or tails as to what kind of reading to get or which voltmeter lead to put where, etc... The "ease-down" aspect may indeed be the key. One of my friends suggested putting a foam pad or a spring under the clamshell where it will come into contact with the black plastic crooked arm microswitch sooner to see if, when it gets tripped sooner, it might turn the warning light off. Kinda makes sense, but then, how does that affect the turning off of the warning light on the return trip when the clamshell opens to allow the top to come up on its way to closing at the windshield? Hmmm... I suppose it may be possible that if it goes off on the way down as the clamshell is closing, we may get a different result on the warning light when it starts out as "off" when the clamshell opens again to allow the top to go up towards closing at the windshield... I will try that and see what happens. Let me know what you think and keep me posted. I'll do the same. Regards, Maurice.

Hey Maurice, My problem is that my "top' works but doesn’t stop by itself in either full up and full down positions + the convertible light on the dash never goes out. Have to watch the clamshell shut and let off the button. As you know, having patiently held my hand through the whole ordeal, a couple weeks ago I went through the whole top mechanism & fixed all kinds of things, tested others. Now that I can finally work it nicely with the switch (with an eye on the clamshell), I’d like it to be “all it can be”. I am pretty sure I checked the micro-switches with a DMM for continuity and they seemed to be in order. I’ve got a manual supplement describing how to test the input into the “relay/controller” socket. But as usual with these official Porsche manuals are pretty arcane. Haven’t siked myself up to measure every thing. Regards, Peter Peter: We are like two peas in a pod. The warning light staying on is the only part I have not been able to figure out. The top works better than ever (actually when I bought the car it did not work at all), and very smoothly, but I, like you, have to keep an eye on the clamshell. BTW, you mentioned the factory manual. I read that you have the supplement describing how to test the input into the "relay/controller" socket. I could not figure out those procedures at all (i.e, where to connect each voltmeter lead, did the whole relay panel have to come out first, etc.). I did figure out and was able to test the last few steps that involve the wires from the motor, and I got the values that are indicated... so that is eliminated as a possible source of this remaining problem. If you look at the Bentley manual, they have reproduced another part of that supplement, which spell out which circuit is supposed to read "open" or "closed" with all of the varying permutations of top up/top down/clamshell up/clamshell down/in between, etc. Maybe with your superior electrical knowledge (mine is not far away from nil), you can figure something out that way. If it will help you, I replaced my top relay (control module in the kick panel) and it did not solve the problem. I'm still working on it and trying to get a solution from my contacts, but still no luck. If I figure it out, I'll let you know. If you have any (really simple) instructions on how to do the above two tests, let me know as I would like to try them. Regards, Maurice.

Shawn: Thanks for the info. Will definitely check the wires for cuts/chafes as this most recent variety of airbag light only reared its ugly head about 3 months ago. Regards, Maurice. Anybody know how many ground wires exist between the air bag in the steering wheel and the car chassis and between the steering wheel and the car chassis? Locations? Regards, Maurice.