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skertchly

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About skertchly

  • Birthday 03/08/1983

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  • Gender
    Male

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  • From
    Austin, TX
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    2001 Boxster S

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  1. skertchly
    Is this something a DIYer like myself can do? I have no idea how to test that, and I thought that verifying the fuel pressure would yield the same results. Also, the fact that the car runs fine when the engine warms up made me think the fuel pump would not be the culprit. Do you think it could still behave differently depending on how long it has been on?
  2. skertchly
    I agree completely, I don't want any performance mods on the car, I just want it to run like stock, but this has been the state of the car ever since I bought it 2 years ago and I've been trying to repair it ever since. I've spent more money on it than I should have, so I want to make sure that the cats are actually the problem before I throw even more parts at it. From what you have seen in these other cases of exhaust mods, does the problem still happen after the engine is warm?
  3. skertchly
    No CEL nor error codes. Before I got the new ECU, I disconnected the MAF and the car ran a little better. It didn't backfire as much, but it felt a lot slower at higher RPM. I haven't tried this since I installed the replacement ECU last week. I have the Durametric cable. The parts I have thrown at it are based on the supposed diagnosis done by two of the shops. There are no mods on the intake. Cleaning the idle stabilizer? Is that the same as cleaning the throttle body? If so, I have done that a couple of times. I told the ECU guys about the hollow cat issue so I think they programmed the replacement accordingly. According to them: "We did what we call a ROW conversion on your ECU where the 2ndary Air Injection is turned off and the 2post cat O2 sensors are ignored".I should have mentioned that I bought the car in Mexico. I'm not sure if it's a ROW version because the invoice says it was imported from the USA. I looked under the car, and I only saw 2 catalytic converters, instead of the 4 it's supposed to have. If I'm not mistaken, it only has what would be considered the secondary cats in the US version. Is this normal or did the previous owner do something shoddy? If this is normal, would it be a valid test to remove the catalytic converters and the remaining part of the exhaust to see if the issue persists?
  4. skertchly
    I'm extremely frustrated with my 2001 Boxster S. It’s a long story but I’ll try to make it short. I bought the car 2 years ago for a decent price knowing it had a few issues, thinking I would be able to fix them. One of these issues is the engine running very rough when cold. From a stand still, if I press on the accelerator more than half-way during the first 10 minutes of turning the car on, it will lose power and backfire. It does this even in neutral. When the engine is warm, all of these issues go away. I took the car to several different shops, and none of them could fix it. They ran smoke tests to check for vacuum leaks, checked fuel pressure, replaced the MAF, temp sensor, AOS, spark plugs, ignition coils. One of the shops discovered it had hollow catalytic converters, and that the ECU might have been tampered with. I sent the unit to ecudoctors.com and they replaced it with a new one. After I installed the replacement, the car runs better than ever when the engine is warm, but still stalls when cold. I don’t know what else to do. Could the hollow catalytic converters be causing this? Anything else I should check? I have spent what I would consider an excessive amount of time and money trying to fix this and I still can't get it to work properly. My excitement about having this car has almost disappeared now that it's turned into a money pit :(
  5. skertchly
    So this weekend I finally decided to send the problematic ECU in my 2001 Boxster S to ecudoctors.com hoping they can fix it. They require that you also send the immobilizer and one key. I removed the immobilizer first, and then proceeded to remove the ECU. I put the immobilizer and all the tools I was using in the rear trunk, and before I started removing the ECU, I made the very stupid mistake of closing the rear trunk. It is probably obvious to everyone, but you can't open anything without the immobilizer. I ended up following the suggestions in these two pages: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/27751-rear-truck-lid-wont-open/?hl=%2Brear+%2Btrunk+%2Bemergency#entry157456 http://pedrosgarage.com/Site_5/Worst_Case_Scenario.html Although it was not that difficult, it turned the simple task of removing the ECU into a 3 hour job (All my tools were in the trunk). Just wanted to post this so someone doing this procedure remembers to be extra careful.
  6. skertchly
    Did you ever get this sorted out? I never heard back from the guy :cursing:
  7. skertchly
    Just a warning to everybody, and I hope it gets sorted out, but I ordered these enclosures almost three months ago. The seller was attentive at first, but after I made the payment, his responses were fewer and farther between until he just stopped responding. His last response was May 27. I never got the the enclosures. Maybe this helps someone else think twice before giving away their money.
  8. skertchly
    Thanks for the info! If I'm not able to fix it myself, I'll definitely contact him.
  9. skertchly
    Is the power loss after 4000RPM very noticeable? When I drove it with the MAF disconnected, I didn't notice that much of a difference...or could it be that I've never really felt what it's supposed to feel like? With the number of Porsches in Mexico, I would be surprised if an independent shop even exists. Is there anything else I can test before I give up and take it to the dealer? Maybe the oxygen sensors?
  10. skertchly
    I don't think I'll be able to find a shop with that equipment where I live...I guess I'm going to have to break down and take it to the dealer. The closest one is about 120 miles away and I won't have time to go this month. Am I taking any risks if I drive with the MAF disconnected until then? What kind of costs should I expect for fixing this? Thanks, Kenneth
  11. skertchly
    I'm not sure if it has been updated...from what I understood by looking at Mike Focke's MAF guide, I thought that since my Boxster is a 2001, it would already have the latest DME. Am I wrong? Is there a way to check the DME version using the durametric cable?
  12. skertchly
    There are no fault codes, with or without the MAF. The part is Bosh Air Mass Sensor 986-606-125-01/14.
  13. skertchly
    I'm having this exact problem, were you able to solve it?
  14. skertchly
    Ok so I disconnected the battery, connected the new MAF according to Loren's schematic, and reconnected the battery 5 minutes later. I've driven the car for a week now and it feels worse than when the MAF was not connected. If the engine is cold and I press hard on the accelerator, the engine stalls and almost turns off. Additionaly, most of the times I do this I hear backfiring. I disconnected the MAF and everything works fine again. How can I fix this? I have the Durametric cable, is there a specific measurement I should check? Is it a good idea to be driving without a MAF? Thanks in advance, Kenneth
  15. skertchly
    Thanks Loren!
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