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wvicary

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Everything posted by wvicary

  1. Oil level gauge wiring? I think it's on the same side of the engine.
  2. The door lock motor is part of the latch assembly so you'll have to replace it as a unit. The inner door handle operates the latch unit via a cable so the door card will need to be removed for inspection. The alarm horn is located by the brake master cylinder and they do fail so start your testing there.
  3. Sounds like you did everything by the book. Be sure clean up any spilt fluid as it can damage paint and some rubbers/plastics.
  4. Why do you think that would cause a squeak noise? Have you checked the fan motor?
  5. It's often caused by the lower control arm big end bushing but if they are new then I'm not sure, sway bar links/bushings or maybe check the torque on all the subframe bushings.
  6. Have you cleared the fault codes? Which ones return? You mention in post 16 that the car will still not crank... is this a typo? It cranks but just won't flash up, correct?
  7. Disconnecting the battery isn't a cure on newer vehicles and can often cause issues. As stated you need to have the vehicle scanned for fault codes including all modules to clear the low voltage codes you induced by disconnecting the battery.
  8. I'd change it, that type of damage can often be caused from over torquing the pan bolts. Carefully inspect the bolt hole in the pan to be sure they are not deformed as they will just damage the new gasket.
  9. Rad cap in good condition? Does Durametric engine temp reading match the gauge display?
  10. I've not seen a replacement filter of that type, chances are it comes only with a new unit and is not meant to be replaced. Hopefully you can find some foam element that will do the trick.
  11. The compressor shouldn't engage is the system pressure is low, it's a fail safe to prevent damage to the compressor, maybe get a second opinion on the needed repairs.
  12. Is the leak from the engine block or cylinder head? I have never seen a porous block on the V6 engine..... time for a second opinion.
  13. Any chance you could post a pic of the filter? I have never seen a replacement for them yet but wondering if a EVAP charcoal canister filter would work.
  14. Does it sometime blow cold air on one side and warm on the other? If yes, then have the freon level checked.
  15. It should only matter how they look to you. I personally think they look awful, right up there with fuzzy dice,carbon fibre and big tail pipes.
  16. If the compressor had a internal mechanical failure debris might have gone through the system. After the compressor is changed, replace the drier and expansion valve and have the system flushed.
  17. Could very well be a faulty coil pack as they have been updated several times and I believe there is also a fuse for the coil circuit.Its common for water to migrate into the spark plug area and damage the coils. Do not operate the vehicle if the check engine light is flashing.
  18. Do you have access to the Durametric software/cable?
  19. Ignition switch can cause many odd issues, it's cheap and easy to replace.
  20. I would not be quite that blasé about a failing AOS; when they start to fail, they can cause the engine to inhale a big slug of oil under certain conditions, which would lead to the hydraulic locking of one or more cylinders and the total destruction of the engine. When you find an AOS going south, do not be driving the car around, get it fixed.............. Plus possible long term damage to catalytic convertors.
  21. Verified fuel pump volume?
  22. That engine is rather robust but any overheat situation takes it toll, get the coolant leak sorted and hope there is no long term damage.
  23. Maybe a backing plate rubbing against the brake rotor?
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