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wvicary

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Everything posted by wvicary

  1. Start with something simple like cleaning of the throttle body. It might be that the cold idle speed is too low.
  2. I would also recommend a dealer visit. Can you feel it dropping out of gear?
  3. You are sure the throttle plate is fully closing? Disconnect the linkage and be sure the throttle is against the stop screw.
  4. I would clean the throttle body and idle speed motor.
  5. are the cooling fans coming on?
  6. You might not have a check engine light but there might be codes in the system. I would have the DME and transmission checked for codes first.
  7. No check engine light or codes? Have the spark plugs or ignition coils ever been changed?
  8. There is a valve for allow extra air to bypass the throttle plate durning cold start/warm up phase. It's called the auxiliary air valve and is located between the intake runner but I can't remember what cylinders. I would remove the valve and plug off both sides of the hoses to see if that corrects your fault.
  9. Unless it's a matter of the DME readjusting. Drive it for a few days to see if it corrects itself.
  10. You need to have to codes read out. Find a locale shop with the Porsche scan tool or Durametric.
  11. Would a thread insert like helicoil work?
  12. There are support brngs in the torque tube but they don't fail often. On the flywheel is a rubber dampener which can fail and cause the noise you describe. The speedometer is driven from the left front wheel brng protective cap.
  13. Double check the you connected everything correctly. If the problem is still there remove the after market parts, throw them in the bin and leave the factory stuff alone.
  14. The noise is most likely from the cooling fan stepping up to high speed. The common faults that would cause this are the coolant temp sensor or a failing cooling fan control module. If you cleared the code does the climate control system operate correctly? You also need to check the DME, instrument cluster, CAN-BUS and electrical system for faults. I recommend recording any code present, clearing them and monitoring any that might return.
  15. Welcome to the forum. The original A/C system in your car is weak at best and converting to R134A will make matters worse and it doesn't cool as well as R12. You need to have the system inspected for leaks or any damage. In Canada you can no longer purchase R12 so would recommend having a product called RedTek installed which is very effective at cooling, cools better then R12, operates at lower pressure and is cheaper as it requires nothing in the system to be changed.
  16. If you're not suffering from a check engine light or running problem then I wouldn't worry about the ignition coils until they give a problem unless you have deep pockets. The dealer are unknown for high repair estimates and jumping the gun on repairs. I would recommend getting a second opinion from a independent garage and consider letting them do the repairs.
  17. First thing I would inspect is the driveshaft centre brng. If thats okay then have the codes of the engine and transmission read out.
  18. Reinstall the relay and verify that the plate lights are working.
  19. I see a lot of VINs with WPOZZZ and they are imported vehicles from Japan and all the old VINs have removed from the front windscreen area.
  20. None that I have ever heard of and I don't think there is a demand on the V6 but they do make them for the V8 Turbo.
  21. There is a mass of ground connections at the fuse block, remove and clean, that helps with odd electrical issues in these cars.
  22. It's hard to say if it's something to worry about or not. I can only suggest you monitor the engine and perhaps an engine oil analysis kit for a more detailed measure of any type of wear that might be taking place.
  23. I think you're jumping the gun here by just replacing parts until you know what the cause is. You might not have a O2 sensor or transmission fault. Any chance you could capture a sound clip of the noise?
  24. A dealer visit is your only option. You can power up a sequence of fuses in the left fuse block which will allow you to access the data connector but I wouldn't post that info on the web due to the high risk of damage to components.
  25. Someone has just fitted the "S" to make it something it isn't.
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