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wvicary

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Everything posted by wvicary

  1. wvicary
    You can also inspect the wiring harness between the door and the body for damaged wiring.
  2. wvicary
    1- Remove the inspect cover to see what's going on. There are several quick disconnect connectors on the fuel filter module and chances are it's on the pressure line. 2- I think the fuse is for the electric air pump which can seize or become damaged from moisture. They are located above each cylinder bank and black in colour, I would unplug them, replace the fuse and if it doesn't blow connect each one in turn to see which one faults.
  3. wvicary
    It sounds like the blower motor is failing.
  4. wvicary
    Good to hear. I'll wait to hear the sound clip before I comment on the noise. I have a question about a comment you make on your blog, you state that you're going to "hack the back-up light outputs to drive the "reverse" input on the Soliton 1." What does this mean?
  5. wvicary
    There was a post on here about the Turbo having an extra coolant flange or pipe that was located at the rear of the engine. The post showed the location and part numbers I believe.
  6. wvicary
    I don't understand how this could happen. Air is compressible and would lead to a soft pedal or excessive pedal travel but not keep the brake master engaged against it's internal spring pressure.
  7. wvicary
    I've no idea as I can't tell from that pic.
  8. wvicary
    There is a filter integral to the reservoir tank but I doubt this is your problem. I'm not sure I understand your description of the noise, is it possible to capture a sound clip or video of the fault? Do you have speed sensitive steering?
  9. wvicary
    The Ford system used to open the high pressure valve at 500 PSI if I remember correctly. If your system has to be recharged every two years then find another garage to inspect the system and find the leak. Sometimes the are the devil to find but the freon is going somewhere at that rate.
  10. wvicary
    If the torque convertor is turning the pump is pumping albeit it is a positive displacement type so more RPM equals more flow/pressure. I think you didn't have the convertor properly engaged into the pump and possibly a low fluid level condition. If it is in default mode it will require more engine RPM to engage so I recommend connecting everything you disconnected,clearing all codes and retesting.
  11. wvicary
    I've not seen air cause this type of problem. You should be able to feel the free play in the pedal.
  12. wvicary
    Best to check the system for codes. The blend door servo motor operation can be viewed if you remove the lower passenger side trim panel, laying on your back look up towards centre of the climate control air box and operate the temp control for that side. You should be able to see the servo motor turn the bend door axle but it is very difficult to see. A failing servo motor is often associated with noise from the gear drive within the motor.
  13. wvicary
    Drive a few meters with the steering wheel in the straight ahead position and it will reset.
  14. wvicary
    I think the fob is glued together and I've no idea how to open it with out damage to the unit.
  15. wvicary
    The starter only operates to crank the engine, not whilst the engine is running. I very much doubt your noise is the starter.
  16. wvicary
    I'm not sure how the rack could make a squeak when turning only one direction, are you sure it's not from the pump? Is the noise RPM dependent? If the vehicle is stationary, does it make the noise?
  17. wvicary
    You'd never get enough pressure/volume from the pump by turning it by hand. Be sure the torque convertor is primed as it might take up to a minute or more of idle speed RPM to fill the convertor fully especially if the pump is worn which often lead to a syphoning effect which can drain the convertor each time the engine is stopped.
  18. wvicary
    If the combi valve isn't opening the secondary air pump will run long and the pitch of the pump will be different. The DME will operate the pump to the max time looking for a result from the O2 sensors, if the combi valve doesn't open the O2 sensors don't see mixture change and trigger the check engine light. It's often a failed vacuum line to the valve that's the issue.
  19. wvicary
    I believe if you're looking at the convertor face it should rotate clockwise. There is no measurement of installed torque convertor depth that I know of, I've always gone by feel as it engages the pump drive. How are you supporting the torque convertor centering snout that normally would engage the crankshaft?
  20. wvicary
    Measure the free play between the brake pedal and the master cylinder. Was it new parts you installed? I have also seen defective master cylinders cause this issue.
  21. wvicary
    The transmission should default to 3rd gear operation if there is a fault or it's not getting the information needed. This is a serious question, it the electric motor turning the transmission torque convertor the proper direction and it the convertor correctly engaged into the transmission pump drive?
  22. wvicary
    It won't rotate as freely as the alternator but should have no roughness or tight spots.
  23. wvicary
    Any chance it's the AOS? It's got a coolant passage running through it.
  24. wvicary
    Can you post some pics of a wider view of the oil leak? The next step is to clean the area, run the engine and watch for leaks. Just be patience as sometimes these leaks are difficult to solve.
  25. wvicary
    You will always have blow-by on a engine and that is what dirties the throttle body unit. It's also normal to have some oil in the turbo charger pipes which will accumulate over time/use. You need to look toward the top of the engine for the source of the leak, by looking at your pics, it's all ran down the cylinder head. No check engine lights or code history?
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