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wvicary

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Everything posted by wvicary

  1. Some noises are elusive to locate, best take it to the dealer or a good indy garage for a second opinion. It's just not cost effective to start throwing parts at these vehicles and hope you guess right. There are many rollers and other components in the belt area that could cause the noise.
  2. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...mp;#entry132141 I hope this helps. You should measure the starter draw after the engine has had a chance to heat soak, it could very well be the starter.
  3. I just use compressed air on the drains. You can buy a odor eliminator from any parts store that you spray into the intake housing where the cabin filter sits.
  4. At the base of the wiper arm under a protective cap is a retaining nut, just tighten it and all should be well.
  5. Another member had a similar problem and it was a corroded junction point under the engine bay. I'll try and post the link when I find it.
  6. Check the condition of the cabin filter and also that the drains aren't plugged. Do a quick search for more info.
  7. Could be many things one of them being the mass air flow sensor. Any check engine lights or codes?
  8. The fuse fails due to excessive current draw. I've no idea what the cupholder mod is but undo it and see if it corrects the problem. Be sure to only replace the failed fuse with one of the correct rating for the circuit.
  9. What resistance value do you read across the solenoid?
  10. The lower parallel links can make noise but if the suspension is unload using a jack you should be able to find movement in the link. Might be best to try a different garage... nothing wrong with getting a second opinion.
  11. Clear the current code and see if it returns. When a code is present it doesn't always mean that sensor or component has failed and never drive the vehicle if the check engine is flashing as serious damage to the engine or emission system can result.
  12. I always recommend following the advice in the owners manual.
  13. This has been covered many times before on the forum. Why do you feel it's a defect to be stopped before top operation?? It's designed to protect the top material and operation mechanism from having to work against wind resistance. '05 models and up have a reworked top that can be opened/closed on the move up to 50 kph.
  14. Has the part been replaced by the same person each time? I have seen this unit installed incorrectly more then once and it very rare for them to fail.
  15. Could also be the drive shaft also known as the carden shaft.
  16. You need a scan tool capable of reading the transmission codes. Durametric or Porsche tools are the only ones I know of.
  17. Terminals 3 and 5 with a fused jumper, you should be able to hear the pump run.
  18. Best to check all the fuses as I believe you have two fuel pumps. Could be a fuel pump problem. Have you had the battery load tested? A weak battery can exhibit all sorts of odd problems in these vehicles.
  19. Be sure to check the connection on the ignition coils that they are securely attached and for any failed fuses in both fuse blocks.
  20. The fuel filters have a large surface area.... seems unlikely that it would be plugged from rubbish in the bottom of the tank but I guess it could happen. If there are no engine codes I would disconnect the battery for a few minutes, hook it back up and leave the ignition key on for one minute before restarting the engine.
  21. Why not monitor the amount of leakage? It could be nothing major and the leak compounded by the cold weather.
  22. I would suspect maybe a problem with the oil separator.
  23. Cdr 210 serial number w5023333. This is other number on the unit 2282dzow5023333 Thanks again.
  24. Thanks for the speedy reply Loren. I did read through lost radio code/FAQ's and that's the only part of the serial number that displays. Maybe I should remove the radio and look for the serial number. I'm away from the vehicle and will post back later.
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