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wvicary

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Everything posted by wvicary

  1. wvicary
    The knock is caused from a failed cylinder/piston. Been a few reports of this type on the early models. I've seen one with 43,000 km's fail.
  2. wvicary
    Clear all codes and monitor which return.
  3. wvicary
    Start by checking for fault codes. There are so many variables that we need to narrow things down if we can.
  4. wvicary
    What mass is the meter reading at idle and at 2000 RPM?
  5. wvicary
    Doesn't matter to the new one.
  6. wvicary
    Sorry I can't help right now but I think a Cayenne is coming in friday and I know he tows a boat trailer so I'll try and snap so pics of his wiring and such.
  7. wvicary
    Play it by ear but you might have a steel sealing ring or two failing and if that's the case then the slipping/RPM flare up or gear fall out will increase over time. I would also check the conditions of the engine/transaxle mounts which can increase drive live angles and cause vibrations under loading. Are there any fault codes?
  8. wvicary
    It's common to find metal bits in the oil pan but how much and of what material is what's important. If you're not having any transmission problems I wouldn't worry about it and keep driving until things start to go south.
  9. wvicary
    Do not boost the vehicle as you risk damage to other components. After the battery is replaced invest in a battery maintainer. Where are you located?
  10. wvicary
    You're really opening up a can of worms. Why not just stick with what Porsche recommends which is Mobil 1.
  11. wvicary
    Is there a part number on it?
  12. wvicary
    I always push the connector towards the sensor first then press the locking tabs and remove it.
  13. wvicary
    It shouldn't be selecting 1st gear unless you have foot in the throttle 100% but hard acceleration should downshift into 2nd gear-depending on the speed/RPM carried through the corner. If it indeed does engage 1st gear it should shift into second at redline.
  14. wvicary
    Where are you located? I would strongly advise against it.... it's not like you can put that convertor substrate back together again if you encounter problems.
  15. wvicary
    I didn't know they had an EGR valve. Do you know the code that lead them to this result? I'll have a look when I get to work and report back.
  16. wvicary
    Are your readings only taken at idle? O2 sensors can problematic but not set a code if they become lean/rich biased or stall under the allotted time period so it's best to monitor the short term and long term fuel trims on a drive cycle.
  17. wvicary
    I agree with RFM, it sounds completely normal depending on how much throttle you're applying exiting the corner. Is the vehicle new to you or this problem has recently started.
  18. wvicary
    Check that the A/C drain hasn't become dislodged.
  19. wvicary
    I agree with installing the OEM parts and retesting. You need to establish a base line for testing.
  20. wvicary
    Sounds more like a fuel system problem but you need to do the basics like check for engine codes as Loren stated.
  21. wvicary
    Get a second opinion. If the tech can't source a coolant leak I wouldn't have faith in them.
  22. wvicary
    Change engine oil,filter, drain the fuel tank and change filter. Check the air filter and exhaust for rodent nests. Remove spark plugs and oil the cylinder and turn engine over by hand. You need to test for power at the starter if you have a good battery installed. Thats a good starting point.
  23. wvicary
    I would replace the switch-they are expensive and easy enough to replace.
  24. wvicary
    The light switches do fail and the replacement has been covered on the forum before. Best of luck and hope you get it sorted soon.
  25. wvicary
    I wouldn't worry about rust proofing. We have a handle full of drivers that use their cars all year round here with no problems to date. They use massive amounts of salt on our roads in winter.
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